Friday, May 31, 2013

Denali Team 2 2013 - Dispatch 20

Denali Team 2: May 12 to June 1

Guides: Andrew Yasso, Geoff Lodge, Andrew Stephen
Climbers:  Blake Penson, Daniel Emond, Carol Akerson, Dan Douthit, David Bradley, Luca Smargiasso, Kevin Harker, Michael Buttery, Tina Fiori

Andrew Yasso called at 10:20am PST on May 31st with the following dispatch:



Denali Team 4 2013 -Dispatch 4

Denali Team 4: May 26 to June 15


Guides: Paul Rosser, Higinio (Quino) Gonzalez, Chad Cochran
Climbers:  Dominic Renshaw, Paul Greenan, Jason Krishnan, Aaron Sabo, Jorge Vargas, Will Johnson, James King, Fredson Bowers, Colin Gailey

Chad Cochran called at 8:58pm PST on May 30th with the following dispatch:




Summary: the team has climbed to 11,200 feet and have retrieved their caches. They will deliver a cache to 13,000 feet soon. They passed the phone around so many of the climbing team and guides send messages home to loved ones.

Thursday, May 30, 2013

Denali Team 2 2013 - Dispatch 19

Denali Team 2: May 12 to June 1


Guides: Andrew Yasso, Geoff Lodge, Andrew Stephen
Climbers:  Blake Penson, Daniel Emond, Carol Akerson, Dan Douthit, David Bradley, Luca Smargiasso, Kevin Harker, Michael Buttery, Tina Fiori

Andrew Yasso called at 8am PST on May 30th with the following dispatch: 



Denali Team 2 2013 - Dispatch 18

Denali Team 2: May 12 to June 1

Guides: Andrew Yasso, Geoff Lodge, Andrew Stephen
Climbers:  Blake Penson, Daniel Emond, Carol Akerson, Dan Douthit, David Bradley, Luca Smargiasso, Kevin Harker, Michael Buttery, Tina Fiori

Andrew Yasso called at 2:04pm PST on May 29th with the following dispatch:



Denali Team 3 2013 - Dispatch 5

Denali Team 3: May 19 to June 8


Guides: Paul Ivaska, Paule Rachele, Ben Gardner
Climbers:  Terry Teed, Stephen Major, Steve Waterman, Kara Stinson, Nicholas Wickes, John Lynas, Stan Whyte, Christian Kesler, Katlin Rumsey

Paul Ivaska called at 12:46pm PST on May 29th with the following dispatch:



Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Denali Team 4 2013 -Dispatch 3

Denali Team 4: May 26 to June 15


Guides: Paul Rosser, Higinio (Quino) Gonzalez, Chad Cochran
Climbers:  Dominic Renshaw, Aaron Sabo, Jason Krishnan, Jorge Vargas, Will Johnson, James King, Fredson Bowers, Colin Gailey

Quino called at 7:15am PST with the following dispatch: 





Summary: The team is still at Camp 1 they carried to about 11,000 feet to make a cache. The team is performing really well and will look to move up soon. 

Denali Team 2 2013 - Dispatch 17

Denali Team 2: May 12 to June 1


Guides: Andrew Yasso, Geoff Lodge, Andrew Stephen
Climbers:  Blake Penson, Daniel Emond, Carol Akerson, Dan Douthit, David Bradley, Luca Smargiasso, Kevin Harker, Michael Buttery, Tina Fiori

Andrew Yasso called at 9:13pm PST on May 29th with the following dispatch:



Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Ecuador High Altitude Expedition - 5/10 - 5/24 - Dispatch 4

Guide: Jaime Avilla
Climbers: Chris Howe, Shelby Howe, Hillary Davis

Jaime Avilla called on May 25th with the following dispatch:

"Hi it's Jaime calling from Quito. We climbed Illiniza Sur yesterday. The conditions were fine on the mountain but the weather and visibility were quite poor. Nacho the second guide who joined for this climb roped up with Chris and Shelby while I climbed with Shelby.


We made good time up and down, about 6:40 minutes. We had no view from the summit with a little wind and snow. On the way down we had a little bit of  window so we got a glimpse of Illiniza Norte. Afterward, everyone was happy with the climb, it was very steep maybe 60 degrees or steeper in places so it was a challenging climb technically. It was a good experience for all.

We made it back to the hut, loaded up the horses and hustled it down to the car. To celebrate we went to a local restaurant and had a very good dinner before saying our goodbyes. Thanks to everyone for a great trip"

The following are photos taken during the Cayambe Climb earlier in the trip.





Denali Team 3 2013 - Dispatch 4

Denali Team 3: May 19 to June 8


Guides: Paul Ivaska, Paule Rachele, Ben Gardner
Climbers:  Terry Teed, Stephen Major, Steve Waterman, Kara Stinson, Nicholas Wickes, John Lynas, Stan Whyte, Christian Kesler, Katlin Rumsey

Paul Ivaska called on Monday May 27th and spoke to our director. He said they were resting at 14,000 camp. They are making a cache today, May 28th, and will call the office tomorrow to get any messages posted on the blog to be relayed to the team members.


Denali Team 2 2013 - Dispatch 16

Denali Team 2: May 12 to June 1

Guides: Andrew Yasso, Geoff Lodge, Andrew Stephen
Climbers:  Blake Penson, Daniel Emond, Carol Akerson, Dan Douthit, David Bradley, Luca Smargiasso, Kevin Harker, Michael Buttery, Tina Fiori

Andrew Yasso called late on May 27th with the following dispatch:



Denali Team 4 2013 -Dispatch 2

Denali Team 4: May 26 to June 15

Guides: Paul Rosser, Higinio (Quino) Gonzalez, Chad Cochran
Climbers:  Dominic Renshaw, Paul Greenan, Jason Krishnan, Aaron Sabo, Jorge Vargas, Will Johnson, James King, Fredson Bowers, Colin Gailey

Paul Rosser called at 10:47pm PST on May 27th with the following dispatch:



Monday, May 27, 2013

Denali Team 2 2013 - Dispatch 15

Denali Team 2: May 12 to June 1


Guides: Andrew Yasso, Geoff Lodge, Andrew Stephen
Climbers:  Blake Penson, Daniel Emond, Carol Akerson, Dan Douthit, David Bradley, Luca Smargiasso, Kevin Harker, Michael Buttery, Tina Fiori

Andrew Yasso called at 7:12pm PST on May 27th with the following dispatch:



Denali Team 2 2013 - Dispatch 14

Denali Team 2: May 12 to June 1
Guides: Andrew Yasso, Geoff Lodge, Andrew Stephen

Climbers:  Blake Penson, Daniel Emond, Carol Akerson, Dan Douthit, David Bradley, Luca Smargiasso, Kevin Harker, Michael Buttery, Tina Fiori

Andrew Yasso called at 6pm PST and again at 8pm on May 26th with the following dispatches:



Denali Team 4 2013 -Dispatch 1

Denali Team 4: May 26 to June 15


Guides: Paul Rosser, Higinio (Quino) Gonzalez, Chad Cochran
Climbers:  Dominic Renshaw, Paul Greenan, Jason Krishnan, Aaron Sabo, Jorge Vargas, Will Johnson, James King, Fredson Bowers, Colin Gailey

Paul Rosser called at 7:35pm PST on May 26th with the following dispatch:



Denali Team 1 2013 - Dispatch 20

Denali Team 1: May 5 to May 25


Guides: Mike Pond, Aili Farquhar, Dustin Byrne
Climbers:  Anna Bolmat, Kevin Burr, Alois Bogenschutz, Jurgen Kreß, Wolfgang Eggl, Daniel Boller, Dominik Meyer, Harrer Aurelia, Titus Pachmann, Daniel Meyerhoff

Mike Pond called at 6:59pm PST on May 26th with the following dispatch:



Denali Team 3 2013 - Dispatch 4

Denali Team 3: May 19 to June 8


Guides: Paul Ivaska, Paule Rachele, Ben Gardner
Climbers:  Terry Teed, Stephen Major, Steve Waterman, Kara Stinson, Nicholas Wickes, John Lynas, Stan Whyte, Christian Kesler, Katlin Rumsey

Paul Ivaska called at 4:38pm on May 26th PST with the following dispatch:



Saturday, May 25, 2013

Denali Team 2 2013 - Dispatch 13

Denali Team 2: May 12 to June 1


Guides: Andrew Yasso, Geoff Lodge, Andrew Stephen
Climbers:  Blake Penson, Daniel Emond, Carol Akerson, Dan Douthit, David Bradley, Luca Smargiasso, Kevin Harker, Michael Buttery, Tina Fiori

Andrew Yasso called at 11:15pm PST with the following dispatch:



Denali Team 1 2013 - Dispatch 19

Denali Team 1: May 5 to May 25


Guides: Mike Pond, Aili Farquhar, Dustin Byrne
Climbers:  Anna Bolmat, Kevin Burr, Alois Bogenschutz, Jurgen Kreß, Wolfgang Eggl, Daniel Boller, Dominik Meyer, Harrer Aurelia, Titus Pachmann, Daniel Meyerhoff

Mike Pond called on May 24th with the following dispatch:



Denali Team 3 2013 - Dispatch 3

Denali Team 3: May 19 to June 8

Guides: Paul Ivaska, Paule Rachele, Ben Gardner
Climbers:  Terry Teed, Stephen Major, Steve Waterman, Kara Stinson, Nicholas Wickes, John Lynas, Stan Whyte, Christian Kesler, Katlin Rumsey

Paul Ivaska called May 24th with the following dispatch:



Denali Team 2 2013 - Dispatch 12

Denali Team 2: May 12 to June 1


Guides: Andrew Yasso, Geoff Lodge, Andrew Stephen
Climbers:  Blake Penson, Daniel Emond, Carol Akerson, Dan Douthit, David Bradley, Luca Smargiasso, Kevin Harker, Michael Buttery, Tina Fiori

Andrew Yasso called on May 24th in the evening with the following dispatch:



Friday, May 24, 2013

Denali Team 1 2013 - Dispatch 18

Denali Team 1: May 5 to May 25


Guides: Mike Pond, Aili Farquhar, Dustin Byrne
Climbers:  Anna Bolmat, Kevin Burr, Alois Bogenschutz, Jurgen Kreß, Wolfgang Eggl, Daniel Boller, Dominik Meyer, Harrer Aurelia, Titus Pachmann, Daniel Meyerhoff

Mike Pond called at 7:29pm PST on May 23rd (from the summit) and again at 12:43am PST (from high camp) on May 24th with the following dispatch:





Summary: The team, led by Mike Pond, summited around 7:30pm on May 23rd. They experience excellent weather and conditions. I believe there were 9 of them that summited, the entire summit team. They returned to high camp after a 14 hour summit day. Congratulations to the team on a successful summit!

Denali Team 2 2013 - Dispatch 11

Denali Team 2: May 12 to June 1


Guides: Andrew Yasso, Geoff Lodge, Andrew Stephen
Climbers:  Blake Penson, Daniel Emond, Carol Akerson, Dan Douthit, David Bradley, Luca Smargiasso, Kevin Harker, Michael Buttery, Tina Fiori

Andy Stephen called at 7:53pm PST on May 23rd with the following dispatch:





Summary: Team 2 completed a cache at 16,000 feet just above the fixed lines. They are enjoying the cooking of Chef Geoff and looking forward to moving up to high camp soon.

Denali Private April 28th - May 23rd - Dispatch 23

Denali Private: April 28 to May 23
Guides: Mark Cionek, Chad Cochran
Climber: Jan Smith

Mark Cionek called at 7:00pm PST on May 23rd with the following dispatch:



Thursday, May 23, 2013

Denali Team 1 2013 - Dispatch 17

Denali Team 1: May 5 to May 25



Guides: Mike Pond, Aili Farquhar, Dustin Byrne

Climbers:  Anna Bolmat, Kevin Burr, Alois Bogenschutz, Jurgen Kreß, Wolfgang Eggl, Daniel Boller, Dominik Meyer, Harrer Aurelia, Titus Pachmann, Daniel Meyerhoff

Mike Pond called at 7:30pm PST with the following dispatch:

"I am calling from the Summit of Denali! Everybody did great the whole summit team is here." 

(Full Audio posted in Dispatch 18)

Denali Team 1 2013 - Dispatch 16

Denali Team 1: May 5 to May 25


Guides: Mike Pond, Aili Farquhar, Dustin Byrne

Climbers:  Anna Bolmat, Kevin Burr, Alois Bogenschutz, Jurgen Kreß, Wolfgang Eggl, Daniel Boller, Dominik Meyer, Harrer Aurelia, Titus Pachmann, Daniel Meyerhoff

Mike Pond called at 8:51am PST on May 23rd with the following dispatch:





Summary: Team 1 is going for the summit, they had a storm overnight but it's good high pressure today so they are going for it. 

Denali Team 3 2013 - Dispatch 2

Denali Team 3: May 19 to June 8
Guides: Paul Ivaska, Paule Rachele, Ben Gardner

Climbers:  Terry Teed, Stephen Major, Steve Waterman, Kara Stinson, Nicholas Wickes, John Lynas, Stan Whyte, Christian Kesler, Katlin Rumsey

Paul Ivaska called at 8:20pm PST on May 22nd with the following dispatch: 





Summary: Team 3 is at Camp 2, 11,200 feet, yesterday, May 21st, they put their cache at 10,000 feet. On May 23rd they will go down and pick up their cache. 

Denali Team 2 2013 - Dispatch 10

Denali Team 2: May 12 to June 1
Guides: Andrew Yasso, Geoff Lodge, Andrew Stephen

Climbers:  Blake Penson, Daniel Emond, Carol Akerson, Dan Douthit, David Bradley, Luca Smargiasso, Kevin Harker, Michael Buttery, Tina Fiori

Geoff called at 8:11pm PST with the following dispatch:





Summary: The team is at 14,000 foot camp. They retrieved their cache from 13,600' and will try and make another cache above the fixed lines on May 23rd. They may take a rest day before moving to high camp but with a stellar weather forecast they are looking to move up as soon as they can.


Denali Team 1 2013 - Dispatch 15

Denali Team 1: May 5 to May 25


Guides: Mike Pond, Aili Farquhar, Dustin Byrne

Climbers:  Anna Bolmat, Kevin Burr, Alois Bogenschutz, Jurgen Kreß, Wolfgang Eggl, Daniel Boller, Dominik Meyer, Harrer Aurelia, Titus Pachmann, Daniel Meyerhoff

Mike Pond called at 4:50pm PST on May 22nd with the following dispatch:





Summary: The team took a rest day to acclimatize. They are hoping to make a summit attempt today, May 23rd. We, in the office, will keep you posted on their progress. 

Ecuador High Altitude Expedition - Dispatch 4

Ecuador High Altitude Expedition - 5/10 - 5/24
Guide: Jaime Avilla
Climbers: Chris Howe, Shelby Howe, Hillary Davis

Jaime called Monday May 23rd at 5:18am PST with the following dispatch:

"Hello, we had two chances to climb Cotopaxi but we couldn’t complete the climb due to the crevasse danger. There was a very large crevasse blocking the route the first time. We went back a second time with another guide but we still couldn't get past the crevasse. The avalanche risk was too high to attempt a new route so we had bad luck I guess.

Yesterday we rested and talked to a guide down near the Illinizas. Today we are on the way to climb Illiniza Norte, we will stay the night at the Illiniza Norte hut, tomorrow we will climb Illiniza Sur. We will spend the night at the hut and tomorrow morning we will climb Illiniza Norte. The weather is fairly good and we are looking at clear skies. Sorry that I have been out of touch I had bad cell reception on Cotopaxi and haven’t been able to call. I will call again tonight and tomorrow.

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

Denali Private April 28th - May 23rd - Dispatch 22

Denali Private: April 28 to May 23
Guides: Mark Cionek, Chad Cochran
Climber: Jan Smith

Mark Cionek called at 10:00am PST on May 14th with the following dispatch:



Denali Team 1 2013 - Dispatch 14


Denali Team 1: May 5 to May 25


Guides: Mike Pond, Aili Farquhar, Dustin Byrne
Climbers:  Anna Bolmat, Kevin Burr, Alois Bogenschutz, Jurgen Kreß, Wolfgang Eggl, Daniel Boller, Dominik Meyer, Harrer Aurelia, Titus Pachmann, Daniel Meyerhoff

Dustin Byrne called at 11:02pm PST with the following dispatch:





Summary: Team 1 has moved to high camp. The fixed lines were busy with a mad rush of climbers trying to move up making for interesting social conditions. The weather report is looking good so the team is getting excited to make a bid for the summit this week. 

Denali Team 2 2013 - Dispatch 9


Denali Team 2: May 12 to June 1


Guides: Andrew Yasso, Geoff Lodge, Andrew Stephen
Climbers:  Blake Penson, Daniel Emond, Carol Akerson, Dan Douthit, David Bradley, Luca Smargiasso, Kevin Harker, Michael Buttery, Tina Fiori

Andrew Yasso called at 6:47pm PST on May 21st with the following dispatch:





Summary: The team moved to 14 camp to find nice snow walls pre-built for them. The weather forecast looks great so they will try and keep moving up to take advantage of the weather. 

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Denali Private April 28th - May 23rd - Dispatch 21

Denali Private: April 28 to May 23
Guides: Mark Cionek, Chad Cochran
Climber: Jan Smith

Chad Cochran called May 21st at 10:35am PST with the following dispatch:



Denali Team 1 2013 - Dispatch 13

Denali Team 1: May 5 to May 25


Guides: Mike Pond, Aili Farquhar, Dustin Byrne

Climbers:  Anna Bolmat, Kevin Burr, Alois Bogenschutz, Jurgen Kreß, Wolfgang Eggl, Daniel Boller, Dominik Meyer, Harrer Aurelia, Titus Pachmann, Daniel Meyerhoff

Mike Pond and the team called twice on May 20th  at 7:30pm and on May 21st at 7am  PST with the following dispatches:





Summary: The team is moving up to high camp today! Yeah! Spirits are high and there are messages from climbers to family.

Denali Team 3 2013 - Dispatch 1


Denali Team 3: May 19 to June 8

Guides: Paul Ivaska, Paule Rachele, Ben Gardner
Climbers:  Stephen Major, Steve Waterman, Kara Stinson, Nicholas Wickes, John Lynas, Stan Whyte, Christian Kesler, Katlin Rumsey

Paul Ivaska called at 7:41pm PST on May 20th with the following dispatch:





Summary: The team has landed and did a single carry to Camp 1. Tuesday they will try and get a cache in at 10,500 feet. 

Denali Team 2 2013 - Dispatch 8


Denali Team 2: May 12 to June 1
Guides: Andrew Yasso, Geoff Lodge, Andrew Stephen

Climbers:  Blake Penson, Daniel Emond, Carol Akerson, Dan Douthit, David Bradley, Luca Smargiasso, Kevin Harker, Michael Buttery, Tina Fiori

Andrew and the team called twice on May 20th once in the morning and at 9pm PST with the following dispatches:



Monday, May 20, 2013

Denali Private April 28th - May 23rd - Dispatch 20

Denali Private: April 28 to May 23
Guides: Mark Cionek, Chad Cochran
Climber: Jan Smith

Jan Smith called 3:30pm PST on May 14th with the following dispatch:


Denali Team 1 2013 - Dispatch 12


Denali Team 1: May 5 to May 25


Guides: Mike Pond, Aili Farquhar, Dustin Byrne

Climbers:  Anna Bolmat, Kevin Burr, Alois Bogenschutz, Jurgen Kreß, Wolfgang Eggl, Daniel Boller, Dominik Meyer, Harrer Aurelia, Titus Pachmann, Daniel Meyerhoff

Mike Pond called at 8:53pm on May 19th PST with the following dispatch:



Denali Team 2 2013 - Dispatch 7


Denali Team 2: May 12 to June 1


Guides: Andrew Yasso, Geoff Lodge, Andrew Stephen
Climbers:  Blake Penson, Daniel Emond, Carol Akerson, Dan Douthit, David Bradley, Luca Smargiasso, Kevin Harker, Michael Buttery, Tina Fiori

Andrew Yasso Called on May 19th with the following dispatch: 




Andrew Yasso called at 9:07am PST on May 20th with the following dispatch:


Saturday, May 18, 2013

Denali Private April 28th - May 23rd - Dispatch 19

Denali Private: April 28 to May 23


Guides: Mark Cionek, Chad Cochran
Climber: Jan Smith

Note: We will post the audio of this dispatch on Monday May 20th. 

Mark called at 6:32pm PST on May 18th with the following dispatch:

Summary: There is a lull in the storm so we are working on our igloo. Just hoping for this weather to break for real. (hands phone to Jan) 

Jan: "We are still at 14 passing the time playing battleship, reading Nietsche, mending things that need mending , and generally doing anything possible to avoid leaving the sleeping bag. Today there is a little sun so we are working on the igloo."



Denali Team 1 2013 - Dispatch 11

Denali Team 1: May 5 to May 25

Guides: Mike Pond, Aili Farquhar, Dustin Byrne

Climbers:  Anna Bolmat, Kevin Burr, Alois Bogenschutz, Jurgen Kreß, Wolfgang Eggl, Daniel Boller, Dominik Meyer, Harrer Aurelia, Titus Pachmann, Daniel Meyerhoff

Note: We will post the audio version of these on Monday May 20th.

Mike called at 12:15am PST on May 18th with the following dispatch:

Summary: We're weathered in at 14 camp due to high winds and snow. We played a rousing game of trans camp battleship over the radios. 4 expedition teams were playing games simultaneously. We're just sitting tight waiting to move to high camp once the weather breaks. 

Mike Called at 9:58pm PST on May 18th with the following dispatch:

This Haiku pretty much sums it up:

Waiting at fourteen
Maybe we will climb Monday
We still have a chance.

Dustin called at 12:44pm PST on May 18th with the following dispatch:

Summary: We just enjoyed some toasted bagels and cream cheese. We're still waiting for the storm to die down. We are hoping to move up on Sunday. 

Denali Team 2 2013 - Dispatch 6

Denali Team 2: May 12 to June 1

Guides: Andrew Yasso, Geoff Lodge, Andrew Stephen
Climbers:  Blake Penson, Daniel Emond, Carol Akerson, Dan Douthit, David Bradley, Luca Smargiasso, Kevin Harker, Michael Buttery, Tina Fiori

(We will post the audio of these dispatches on Monday.)

Andrew called in the afternoon May 17th with the following dispatch:

Summary: We are still and Camp 2. We did a "cache rescue" today as opposed to a back-carry as it is usually referred to. With white out conditions and high winds it really felt like an epic just getting our cache. tt snowed 16 - 20 inches today. We have all our goods and are sitting pretty waiting for the weather to break so we can move up. 

Geoff called at 4:49pm PST on May 18th with the following dispatch:

Summary: Calling from Camp 2 at 11,000'. After our exciting back carry yesterday we have all our food and supplies with us. We have now received between 2.5 and 3 feet of snow. We are going to wait for the snow to settle and avalanche risk to decrease before moving up. There is an Italian team that may move up tomorrow so we will be watching them pretty closely. The Sun is out and the weather is improving so we are in high spirits.