Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Mt. Everest Expedition 2014 Notice

April 22, 2014

The past few days at Everest Base Camp since Friday have been a very difficult time for all of our team as we grieve for the Sherpas who have been lost. Our three dear friends were integral to our operation and our Sherpa, Guides and staff know most of the other thirteen Sherpa and Nepalese who have died. After much discussion and consideration of all aspects the tough decision has been made to cancel the 2014 expedition this season.

Our team members have empathy for the Sherpa community and we wish for everyone to be able to mourn their lost family and friends in peace.

We thank you for all your support and condolences, which mean so much as we try to recover from the enormity of this tragedy.

Monday, April 21, 2014

Mt. Everest Expedition 2014: Dispatch #14

April 21, 2014   

Everest Sherpa Support Donations 

American Alpine Institute and Adventure Consultants will be supporting the families of the three Sherpas who were part of the AAI/AC Everest Expedition affected by this tragedy, and if you would like to also contribute we will be sending donations directly to those families affected as part of our ongoing level of support. Contact us at info@adventure.co.nz to register your interest and we will liaise further with you regarding this.

The Himalayan Trust in New Zealand has launched an appeal to help the families of the Sherpa climbers impacted by this tragedy. Please click through to:
https://www.givealittle.co.nz/cause/AvalancheAppeal2014
to add your contribution to this effort.

We support The Juniper Fund who are working in conjunction with and partnering with the American Alpine Club's Sherpa Support Fund to support them in allocating funds as part of their excellent effort to address this most recent incident on Everest. At The Juniper Fund they continue to work on the long term elements that affect local workers of the mountain based tourism industry. Please consider donations via either route – the American Alpine Club and The Juniper Fund.

The Juniper Fund

AAC Sherpa Support Fund

Thank you very much for the support of these Sherpa families who are affected and thank you for your care, concern and prayers. Our team at Base Camp has been integral in the rescue co-ordination effort that has occurred on the mountain since Friday as well as looking after and supporting each other while grieving for the loss of their team members, relatives and mates.


Friday, April 18, 2014

Mt Everest Expedition 2014: Dispatch #13

April 19, 2014 
Mt Everest Update 

Thank you to all who have been in touch to offer their support and condolences at this time.

With heavy hearts we are grieving for the loss of our Sherpa friends in yesterdays avalanche on Mt Everest.

The news that as many as 16 Climbing Sherpa have perished in the icefall yesterday is coming through today, and we have lost 3 of our Sherpas from our team.

We are not yet able to post the names of those have died so please bear with us and we will post this information as soon as we are able to.

One of our Sherpa team members was injured and he has been airlifted to Kathmandu and is reported to be in a stable condition.


The Sherpas from the Adventure Consultants/American Alpine Institute Everest Expedition who have been lost in the Khumbu Icefall accident yesterday are:

Phurba Ongyal Sherpa from Pangboche

Lakpa Tenjing Sherpa from Khumjung

Chhring Ongchu Sherpa from Khumjung

Our deepest condolences to the families of our Sherpa friends.


Thursday, April 17, 2014

Mt. Everest Expedition 2014: Dispatch #12

April 18, 2014    

Expedition Leader: Dean Staples, IFMGA – New Zealand 
Expedition Guide: Ang Dorjee Sherpa – Nepal/ USA 
Base Camp Manager: Caroline Blaikie – New Zealand / Scotland 

Team members: 
Nick Durack – UK
Yoshio Goto – Japan / Hong Kong 
Jake Frykberg – Australia
Jon Johnston – Australia / USA 
Anatolii Stegniei – Ukraine 
Vilborg Arna Gissurardóttir – Iceland

News from Mt Everest

There has been an incident in the Khumbu icefall on Mt Everest this morning involving Sherpas from a number of teams, including the Adventure Consultants Climbing Sherpas. All the Adventure Consultants climbers and guides were in Base Camp at the time and were not involved. We are waiting to hear updates regarding our Sherpa staff and we hope to be able to post a further update soon.

Update:
The following link is to the article that appeared in the New York Times in the early hours of Friday, April 18th: NY Times Article


Mt. Everest Expedition 2014: Dispatch #11

April 17, 2014    

Expedition Leader: Dean Staples, IFMGA – New Zealand 
Expedition Guide: Ang Dorjee Sherpa – Nepal/ USA 
Base Camp Manager: Caroline Blaikie – New Zealand / Scotland 

Team members: 
Nick Durack – UK
Yoshio Goto – Japan / Hong Kong 
Jake Frykberg – Australia
Jon Johnston – Australia / USA 
Anatolii Stegniei – Ukraine 
Vilborg Arna Gissurardóttir – Iceland

Ladder Training and Resting at Base Camp 
Ladder training

Yesterday we spent sorting out our hardware that we would need to go through the ice fall then putting that into practice on a course that we set up out in the lower glacier straight out from camp.
Our course involved a horizontal ladder some steep jummaring and a steep rappel plus some arm or Sherpa rappelling something we will spend most of our time doing as it is the fastest way down the mountain.
Yoshio arm rappeling
Today we have been resting in Base camp 
Dean 

Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Mt. Everest Expedition 2014: Dispatch #10

April 15, 2014    

Expedition Leader: Dean Staples, IFMGA – New Zealand 
Expedition Guide: Ang Dorjee Sherpa – Nepal/ USA 
Base Camp Manager: Caroline Blaikie – New Zealand / Scotland 

Team members: 
Nick Durack – UK
Yoshio Goto – Japan / Hong Kong 
Jake Frykberg – Australia
Jon Johnston – Australia / USA 
Anatolii Stegniei – Ukraine 
Vilborg Arna Gissurardóttir – Iceland

High point above Base Camp 
Team high above Base Camp

Hi friends and family following our adventures.

A beautiful and mostly clear day today so the team climbed up above base camp to a high point on Mt Pumori at about 5800m, which is a similar height to Camp 1 on Everest.

We had clear skies and great views of Everest including the North Col and North Ridge, and most importantly looking straight at the route up the Lhotse Face, the South Col.

Generally the team was very excited at our first real view of the mountain 

Tomorrow we will do some ice climbing and ladder training in the lower ice fall.

Dean

Mt. Everest Expedition 2014: Dispatch #9

April 13, 2014    


Expedition Leader: Dean Staples, IFMGA – New Zealand 
Expedition Guide: Ang Dorjee Sherpa – Nepal/ USA 
Base Camp Manager: Caroline Blaikie – New Zealand / Scotland 

Team members: 
Nick Durack – UK
Yoshio Goto – Japan / Hong Kong 
Jake Frykberg – Australia
Jon Johnston – Australia / USA 
Anatolii Stegniei – Ukraine 
Vilborg Arna Gissurardóttir – Iceland

Arrival in Base Camp & Puja Day
Puja underway

After their ten day trek through the Khumbu valley the 2014 Adventure Consultants Everest team arrived into Base Camp yesterday afternoon in exceptionally good health. 

Expedition Leader Dean Staples commented that it had been one of the smoothest and illness-free approach treks that he had experienced. Nestled at the foot of the Khumbu Glacier, this undulated field of moraine will be our home for the next six weeks. 

AAI/AC 2014 Everest team members
Our Sherpa team have been hard at work here for several weeks now, shifting huge boulders and levelling out tent platforms to accommodate our array of dining, socialising, kitchen, medical and sleeping tents. They have done a stellar job and as I said to Jon earlier today they are the base of our logistical pyramid and not much would happen without them! Six days ago myself, Sarah and Mark arrived here as the advanced party and have been busy putting the finishing touches to camp, wiring up our power supplies and communications gear and unpacking many many barrels and boxes of food.

Camp was packed to the rafters, with our trekking, climbing and filming teams all converging at once. However this made for a very fun and sociable evening as we all tucked into a delicious meal of Spag Bol followed by Sarah’s famous self-saucing spongy chocolate pudding! Yes, you will become familiar with our daily reportage of the culinary delights of Base Camp!

As is usual for the first night at Base Camp (a cool 5350m, matched by the temperature of about -15C at night, the chilly temps enhanced by our hypoxic state), most folks had an average night’s sleep and there were plenty of guides, climbers and trekkers milling around this morning waiting for the sun to pop over the West Ridge of Everest this morning, ready to soak in some rays.

First on the agenda this morning (after a full cooked breakfast of course!) was our Puja Ceremony. This ceremony, led by Lama Tashi from Pangboche, is to ask for our safe passage on the mountain. Most members chose to have their axe and crampons blessed as part of the ceremony and our climbing Sherpa will certainly not set foot on the mountain without undertaking this blessing first. 

This Puja was particularly enjoyable and several folks commented that the weather gods were looking down on us as we enjoyed beautiful warm and sunny weather for the duration of the ceremony before it clouded over almost immediately on its completion. This was in stark contrast to the very cold, cloudy and snowy weather that we had almost all of yesterday.

The Puja consisted of the usual chants, rice throwing and prayer flag raising before we all took handfuls of tsampa flour, which we raised first to the gods, before turning to each other and decorating our fellow climbers faces to represent living to such an age that we grow long white beards! We then each received a blessing string known as a shrungdi (excuse my spelling!) and enjoyed one or two glasses of wine, whiskey, or (for the brave) local chang or rice wine.

This Puja day was particularly auspicious as it also happens to be Mark’s birthday – HAPPY BIRTHDAY MARK! Although you will have to tune in tomorrow to see what treats we have in store for him tonight.

Thanks for following and we look forward to bringing you more news as the expedition progresses.

Caroline
Base Camp Manager

Mt. Everest Expedition 2014: Dispatch #8

April 11, 2014    
Lobuche is the tiny blue dots





Expedition Leader: Dean Staples, IFMGA – New Zealand 
Expedition Guide: Ang Dorjee Sherpa – Nepal/ USA 
Base Camp Manager: Caroline Blaikie – New Zealand / Scotland 

Team members: 
Nick Durack – UK
Yoshio Goto – Japan / Hong Kong 
Jake Frykberg – Australia
Jon Johnston – Australia / USA 
Anatolii Stegniei – Ukraine 
Vilborg Arna Gissurardóttir – Iceland
Kongma La Pass Views to Nuptse

Kongma La and Lobuche
Views of the North Ridge of Ama Dablam en route
to the pass

Dean has called in from the village of Lobuche at 4930m, where they have limited wifi so he was unable to post a dispatch today. He said everyone did well crossing over the Kongma La pass (and useful for acclimatisation at 5535m high) and they have met up with our other group at Lobuche and all are very much looking forward to arriving at Everest Base Camp tomorrow. The team already at Base Camp have everything almost ready for their arrival so it will be a fun reunion to get everyone moved in and set up at 5300m finally. 

Attached is an archive photo of the views from the Kongma La Pass of Lobuche and surrounds - one of the most spectacular view points accessible to trekkers in the Khumbu region.

By Suze at the AC office in NZ

Mt. Everest Expedition 2014: Dispatch #7

April 9, 2014    

Expedition Leader: Dean Staples, IFMGA – New Zealand 
Expedition Guide: Ang Dorjee Sherpa – Nepal/ USA 
Base Camp Manager: Caroline Blaikie – New Zealand / Scotland 

Team members: 
Nick Durack – UK
Yoshio Goto – Japan / Hong Kong 
Jake Frykberg – Australia
Jon Johnston – Australia / USA 
Anatolii Stegniei – Ukraine 
Vilborg Arna Gissurardóttir – Iceland

Leaving Pheriche 

Dean (in red) with the Hameister family from Melbourne

Our rest is over and the climbing team is heading up to Chukung for a couple of days.


Pheriche is the place where the climbers and trekkers split, except Kerstin who will join us over the Kongma La Pass (5535m). The trekkers are carrying onto Lobuche and Everest Base Camp.

In 2011 I climbed Everest with Paul Hameister, so it has been a great pleasure to travel up the Khumbu with his family. They are heading up to Lobuche today (4925m).

Dean & the Climbing team 


Mt. Everest Expedition 2014: Dispatch #6

April 8, 2014    

Expedition Leader: Dean Staples, IFMGA – New Zealand 
Expedition Guide: Ang Dorjee Sherpa – Nepal/ USA 
Base Camp Manager: Caroline Blaikie – New Zealand / Scotland 

Team members: 
Nick Durack – UK
Yoshio Goto – Japan / Hong Kong 
Jake Frykberg – Australia
Jon Johnston – Australia / USA 
Anatolii Stegniei – Ukraine 
Vilborg Arna Gissurardóttir – Iceland

Rest day in Pheriche 

Not much to report, but we had a great day resting in Pheriche.

Some went for a walk while most chose to relax, do some email, have a shower, eat lots and read books.

More tomorrow as we climb higher. All good here...

Dean and the Everest 2014 Expedition Team

Mt. Everest Expedition 2014: Dispatch #5


April 7, 2014    

Expedition Leader: Dean Staples, IFMGA – New Zealand 
Expedition Guide: Ang Dorjee Sherpa – Nepal/ USA 
Base Camp Manager: Caroline Blaikie – New Zealand / Scotland 

Team members: 
Nick Durack – UK
Yoshio Goto – Japan / Hong Kong 
Jake Frykberg – Australia
Jon Johnston – Australia / USA 
Anatolii Stegniei – Ukraine 
Vilborg Arna Gissurardóttir – Iceland
Dendi one of our base camp cooks
shows us that even the mundane
task of putting on sun cream
can be fun

Pheriche 

We have all arrived in Pheriche where we will spend 2 days acclimatising which is a nice way of saying we are going to rest tomorrow.

Dr Sophie receiving a sundi from
Lama Geshe
This morning we had a Puja with the Lama Geshe, asking for safe passage on the mountain. It was a ceremony that lasted an hour and involved chanting, prayers, throwing rice and being blessed by the lama. This is always an important event for the Sherpa and climbers alike.

Pangboche monastery
Caroline, our Base Camp Manager along with Sarah and Mark will have arrived in Base Camp today to prepare camp for all of us arriving in another 5 days.

Dean

Mt. Everest Expedition 2014: Dispatch #4

April 6, 2014    

Expedition Leader: Dean Staples, IFMGA – New Zealand 
Expedition Guide: Ang Dorjee Sherpa – Nepal/ USA 
Base Camp Manager: Caroline Blaikie – New Zealand / Scotland 

Team members: 
Nick Durack – UK
Yoshio Goto – Japan / Hong Kong 
Jake Frykberg – Australia
Jon Johnston – Australia / USA 
Anatolii Stegniei – Ukraine 
Vilborg Arna Gissurardóttir – Iceland

Pangboche at Phu Tashi's

Hi Everyone following our Adventures, 

We had a big day coming up the valley from Namche and are now in a small but comfortable lodge in the charming village of Pangboche, owned by one of our Sherpa friends Phu Tashi who has done many expeditions with AC.
Jake and Yoshio enjoying a hot chocolate

We had a quick look at the Tangboche Monastery before the afternoon cloud came in cooling us down and obscuring our views, so we then carried on down the hill, over the river and up here on the other side to Pangboche to settle in to the lodge for the night. 

Dean 

Mt. Everest Expedition 2014: Dispatch #3

April 5, 2014    

Expedition Leader: Dean Staples, IFMGA – New Zealand 
Expedition Guide: Ang Dorjee Sherpa – Nepal/ USA 
Base Camp Manager: Caroline Blaikie – New Zealand / Scotland 

Team members: 
Nick Durack – UK
Yoshio Goto – Japan / Hong Kong 
Jake Frykberg – Australia
Jon Johnston – Australia / USA 
Anatolii Stegniei – Ukraine 
Vilborg Arna Gissurardóttir – Iceland


Rest Day in Namche

Ang Dorjee and the 2 youngest members of our team
Jade & Kane Hameister

Climbing above Namche
We all arrived in good time and good health yesterday and had a look around the great shops of Namche, the capital for the Khumbu.

Today we had a walk over to Khumjung to visit the Sir Ed school and the famous Khumjung bakery finishing the loop passing by the Everest View Hotel at a height of 3700m but sadly no view of Everest for two days now - we have had cloud, so better luck tomorrow on our trip to Pangboche.

Tonight we have been reunited with our some of our Base Camp Trekkers, who were delayed getting into Lukla by weather.
Dean Staples



Mt. Everest Expedition 2014: Dispatch #2

April 3, 2014    

Expedition Leader: Dean Staples, IFMGA – New Zealand 
Expedition Guide: Ang Dorjee Sherpa – Nepal/ USA 
Base Camp Manager: Caroline Blaikie – New Zealand / Scotland 

Team members: 
Nick Durack – UK
Yoshio Goto – Japan / Hong Kong 
Jake Frykberg – Australia
Jon Johnston – Australia / USA 
Anatolii Stegniei – Ukraine 
Vilborg Arna Gissurardóttir – Iceland

Trekking up Valley

We've just heard from the Everest Expedition Team...they are currently in Phakding and will head to Namche Bazaar tomorrow morning where they will spend a few days relaxing and will likely discover the infamous Namche Bakery.

Mt. Everest Expedition 2014: Dispatch #1

April 2, 2014    

Expedition Leader: Dean Staples, IFMGA – New Zealand 
Expedition Guide: Ang Dorjee Sherpa – Nepal/ USA 
Base Camp Manager: Caroline Blaikie – New Zealand / Scotland 

Team members: 
Nick Durack – UK
Yoshio Goto – Japan / Hong Kong 
Jake Frykberg – Australia
Jon Johnston – Australia / USA 
Anatolii Stegniei – Ukraine 
Vilborg Arna Gissurardóttir – Iceland

The American Alpine Institute/Adventure Consultants 2014 Everest Expedition is Underway 
The AAI/AC Everest 2014 Team

Hi everyone, welcome to the AAI/AC 2014 Everest Expedition.

Preparations are now over and the team is ready to fly to Lukla tomorrow morning. At 5am, the team will leave the hotel for a 6.30am flight from Kathmandu to the infamous Lukla airport. After a week here in Kathmandu, I for one am ready to begin our trek up the valley over the next 10 days to Everest Base Camp.

Dean Staples, 
Expedition Leader