Tuesday, May 31, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 5 (May 30 - June 19) Dispatch 1

May 30, 2016

Guides:

Andrew Yasso
Zach Lovell
Will Gordon

Climbers:

Rob Parker
Sanni Rannikko
Phil Simonet
Irma Vijn
Tjark de Vries
Stefan Jorritsma
Mark Munsters
Peter
Maaike Braat

Lead Guide Andrew Yasso called around midnight last night.

Team 5 has made it onto the glacier. The Team had the last flight out of Talkeetna to Kahiltna Base Camp.

They are enjoying some beautiful views and will begin making preparations to move to Camp 1.

Looking forward to hearing more from Team 5.


2016 Denali Team 4 (May 23 - June 12) Dispatch 5

Guides:

Higinio "Quino" Gonzalez
Jared Drapala
Justin Moynihan

Climbers:

Leah Jay
Than Juang
Tilak Ramaprakash
William Martin
Tyrone Smith
Jan Grothe
Dan Brochu
Mike Tucker
Duncan Marsh

Lead Guide Higinio Gonzalez called in late last night to let us know that Team 4 has made it Camp 3 (14,200ft).

It was a long day but everyone did well. The weather is somewhat pleasant and they can begin fortifying their camp.

Now come a few rest days before they begin thinking about moving up the mountain.

Sunday, May 29, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 4 (May 23 - June 12) Dispatch 4

Guides:

Higinio "Quino" Gonzalez
Jared Drapala
Justin Moynihan

Climbers:

Leah Jay
Than Juang
Tilak Ramaprakash
William Martin
Tyrone Smith
Jan Grothe
Dan Brochu
Mike Tucker
Duncan Marsh

AAI guide Jared Drapala called in this morning. Team 4 placed a cache at Windy Corner (13,500ft).

Tomorrow the team will look to move up to Camp 3 (14,200ft).

The group is moving very well and enjoyed a pesto pasta dinner.

We look forward to hearing more from Team 4 as they cruise up the mountain.




2016 Denali West Buttress Team 3 (May 16 - Jun 5) Dispatch 11

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Ian Mceleney
Michael Wachs

Climbers:

Jeremy Cote
Penelope Walker
Julie Bedford
Barry Raferty
Freddie Walker
Daniel Goldstein
Rory McHugh
David Atkinson
Jonathan Dell Guidry

Lead guide Andy Stephen called in this morning.

Team 3 successfully placed their cache above the fixed lines (16,200ft). They didn't spend much time above the head wall as it was quite windy but with the cache placed the team is in a good position to make a summit attempt in the next few days.

Unfortunately, as Ian and Andy passed the phone around the group we could only hear a few people's voices due to a poor connection.

Hopefully we get a better signal so that friends and family can hear everyone's brief message.


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 2 (May 9 - 29) Final Dispatch


Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Dennis Ougrin
Roxanne Litynska
Jerry Schuryk
Michael Torbett
Delfino DiMascio
Pedro Becquer
Georg Molnes

Team 2 is safely back in Talkeetna after experiencing some of the worst weather in the mountain's history.

Chad wrote a lovely sentiment about the strong bonds of friendships that were formed during this expedition and they all hope to return to the mountain one day.

An incredible journey comes to an end, but now Team 2 can enjoy the comforts of civilization.


Friday, May 27, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 2 (May 9 - 29) Dispatch 15

May 27, 2016

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Dennis Ougrin
Roxanne Litynska
Jerry Schuryk
Michael Torbett
Delfino DiMascio
Pedro Becquer
Georg Molnes


AAI lead guide Chad Cochran called in this morning to give us an update on Team 2.

Due to the weather event they currently experiencing - which is expected to last for the next few days - bringing in strong winds, snow flurries, and poor visibility, Team 2 has made the decision to begin making their way off the mountain. They in the process of creating a plan to safely travel down the mountain to Base Camp, where they can be flown off the glacier.

These are unfortunate circumstances, but Team 2 is staying positive and looking forward to making their way back to civilization. We are looking forward to hearing an update from them soon.

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 4 (May 23 - June 12) Dispatch 3 (Team member Duncan sends message home)

May 26, 2016

Guides:

Higinio "Quino" Gonzalez
Jared Drapala
Justin Moynihan

Climbers:

Leah Jay
Than Juang
Tilak Ramaprakash
William Martin
Tyrone Smith
Jan Grothe
Dan Brochu
Mike Tucker
Duncan Marsh

AAI lead guide Quino Gonzalez called in late last night to report Team 4 has made it to Camp 2!

Team 4 moved from Camp 1 to Camp 2 during the day. Everyone is doing really well. They were in the kitchen tent, eating dinner and getting ready for bed when Quino called.

The weather is looking good, a little windy with a high pressure system moving in for the next few days. Tomorrow (5/26), Team 4 plans to retrieve their cache and bring it back up to Camp 2.


Thursday, May 26, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 3 (May 16 - June 5) Dispatch 10

May 26, 2016

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Ian Mceleney
Michael Wachs

Climbers:

Jeremy Cote
Penelope Walker
Julie Bedford
Barry Raferty
Freddie Walker
Daniel Goldstein
Rory McHugh
David Atkinson
Jonathan Dell Guidry

AAI lead guide Andy Stephen called in earlier today to report on Team 3.

Team 3 is sitting tight, waiting out a storm at Camp 3 (14,000ft). Around 5am, a strong storm rolled in with approximately 40mph winds picking up and continuing into the morning.

Team 3 is still really psyched and doing well. They had a good breakfast of cereal and dried fruit. Throughout the day Team 3 will build up their snow walls and fortify their camp. It appears this storm may stick around through the weekend, so they need to be prepared if it does.

Team 3 is hanging tight for now. Everyone is in really good spirits, playing games, laughing, and having fun together. We are looking forward to hearing from Team 3 again, soon!


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 2 (May 9 - 29) Dispatch 14

May 25, 2016

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Dennis Ougrin
Roxanne Litynska
Jerry Schuryk
Michael Torbett
Delfino DiMascio
Pedro Becquer
Georg Molnes


AAI guide Jim Mediatore called in late last night (5/25) to report on the progress of Team 2.

On day 17 of their expedition, Team 2 remained at Camp 3, at 14,000ft. Team 2 had another weather day, with low visibility, snow, and intermittent high winds. Team 2 spent the day playing games, enjoying each other's company and doing weather dances.

Team 2 will wait until Friday, day 19, before making an official decision as to whether or not they will move up or down the mountain.

Since the weather has not been as cooperative as they had hoped, Team 2 is asking for our good-weather vibes and support from home! Hopefully we can send enough love that the weather will allow Team 2 to make an attempt at the summit within the next couple of days!


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 4 (May 23 - June 12) Dispatch 2

May 25, 2016

Guides:

Higinio "Quino" Gonzalez
Jared Drapala
Justin Moynihan

Climbers:

Leah Jay
Than Juang
Tilak Ramaprakash
William Martin
Tyrone Smith
Jan Grothe
Dan Brochu
Mike Tucker
Duncan Marsh

AAI lead guide Quino Gonzalez called in late last night to report on Team 4 at Camp 1 on Denali.

During the day Team 4 cached some food and fuel on the way up to Camp 2. It was a beautiful day, the weather was a little overcast with light snow in the evening. So far the weather has been good enough for Team 4 to move around. They were back at Camp 1 eating dinner when our AAI office received their call.

The plan for tomorrow (5/26) is to move up to Camp 2, assuming the weather continues to cooperate. Everyone is well and in good spirits.


Wednesday, May 25, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 3 (May 16 - June 5) Dispatch 9

May 25, 2016

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Ian Mceleney
Michael Wachs

Climbers:

Jeremy Cote
Penelope Walker
Julie Bedford
Barry Raferty
Freddie Walker
Daniel Goldstein
Rory McHugh
David Atkinson
Jonathan Dell Guidry

AAI guide Ian Mceleney called in this morning to check-in for Team 3, making sure we were able to hear about their progress.

Team 3 made their way up to Camp 3 (4,320m) last night. It was a tough day for the expedition, but everyone did really well on their journey and worked really hard throughout the day. They set-up camp really quickly yesterday evening and the guides were very proud of their team.

This morning, Team 3 woke-up to some stormy weather, so they plan to take a rest day and wait out some of the weather. Their plan is to build some snow walls around camp to protect from the wind. AAI guide Michael Wachs was making some breakfast sandwiches for the team when we received their call.

We are looking forward to hearing more from Team 3, soon!


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 2 (May 9 - 29) Dispatch 13

May 24, 2016

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Dennis Ougrin
Roxanne Litynska
Jerry Schuryk
Michael Torbett
Delfino DiMascio
Pedro Becquer
Georg Molnes


AAI lead guide Chad Cochran called in to report on the progress of Team 2.

Team 2 was able to put in their cache on Monday (5/23), above the fixed lines. The weather was finally cooperating and allowed them to make their way above the fixed lines and acclimatize some while putting in their cache. They had a relaxing evening after a productive day, and headed to bed early.

Team 2 woke up to their coldest day yet, about -10 to -15 degrees fahrenheit. They had a great breakfast yesterday (5/24) before venturing out and checking out the views provided by the clearing weather. They could see some teams moving across the lower glacier. Team 2 took some inventory and reorganized their gear and got prepared for the potential to move further up the mountain as soon as the weather provides them the opportunity.

Team 2 got to watch as Team 3 arrived at Camp 3 around dinner time. The two teams are currently camp neighbors, and were able to enjoy each other's company for the evening.

Team 2 is looking forward to the weather hopefully clearing up for Wednesday (5/25), so they can attempt to make their way closer to the summit!


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 3 (May 16 - June 5) Dispatch 8

May 24, 2016

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Ian Mceleney
Michael Wachs

Climbers:

Jeremy Cote
Penelope Walker
Julie Bedford
Barry Raferty
Freddie Walker
Daniel Goldstein
Rory McHugh
David Atkinson
Jonathan Dell Guidry

AAI guide Ian Mceleney called in late last night, on Tuesday May 24th.

Team 3 has made it to Camp 3! The weather held out for the day and after the long haul up to Camp 3, Team 3 was relaxing and enjoying dinner.

Hopefully this weather trend will continue and allow Team 3, and the rest of the Denali teams, to reach their summit goal!

2016 ARAM (May 16 - 24) Dispatch 9

May 24, 2016

Guides:

Andrew Yasso and Paul Rosser

Climbers:

Arnab Banjaree
Anya Jones
Barbara Audin
Leigh Audin

AAI guide Andrew Yasso called in last night (5/24) to let everyone know the ARAM team officially flew out of the range yesterday afternoon!

They flew out of the range around 12:30pm, arrived in Talkeetna, Alaska around 1:00pm. They were able to start cleaning up and drying out their tents. The ARAM was getting ready for their debriefing and dinner.

Unfortunately the ARAM was unable to climb anything during the trip, but they learned a lot, practiced great skills, ate some awesome food, and had a lot of fun. Everyone was excited to be back in Talkeetna and enjoying the last of their time in Alaska.


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 4 (May 23 - June 12) Dispatch 1

May 24, 2016

Guides:

Higinio "Quino" Gonzalez
Jared Drapala
Justin Moynihan

Climbers:

Leah Jay
Than Juang
Tilak Ramaprakash
William Martin
Tyrone Smith
Jan Grothe
Dan Brochu
Mike Tucker
Duncan Marsh

We received word from AAI lead guide Quino Gonzalez late Tuesday evening. Team 4 flew onto the mountain yesterday and made it to Camp 1 last night!

Team 4 landed at base camp around 10:30am and quickly made the 5 hour journey to Camp 1. Everyone did really well throughout the day. Team 4 is hoping to move their first cache halfway to Camp 2 on Wednesday, or they will take a rest day if the weather does not cooperate.

Everyone is in good spirits and doing really well. Team 4 is looking forward to a great expedition!



Tuesday, May 24, 2016

2016 ARAM (May 16 - 24) Dispatch 8

May 23, 2016

Guides:

Andrew Yasso and Paul Rosser

Climbers:

Arnab Banjaree
Anya Jones
Barbara Audin
Leigh Audin

AAI guide Andrew Yasso called in late last night (5/23) from about 300ft from their prior camp, just downhill of the Mountain House.

The ARAM spent the day running through some more crevasse rescue scenarios, even digging their own pseudo-crevasse at camp to practice with.

The ARAM team had moved downhill to the airstrip (their current camp position) after the snow finally stopped during the day and provided them a weather window. Unfortunately they had just gotten word back from K2 Aviation that the weather was still providing poor visibility in the Ruth Gorge, so they were unable to fly the ARAM off the mountain last night.

For now, the ARAM was setting up camp for the night at the airstrip and making the most of their position. Everyone is still in high spirits and hopefully the weather will provide a window so K2 Aviation can fly them off the mountain soon.




2016 Denali West Buttress Team 3 (May 16 - June 5) Dispatch 7

May 23, 2016

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Ian Mceleney
Michael Wachs

Climbers:

Jeremy Cote
Penelope Walker
Julie Bedford
Barry Raferty
Freddie Walker
Daniel Goldstein
Rory McHugh
David Atkinson
Jonathan Dell Guidry

AAI lead guide Andy Stephen called in yesterday evening (5/23) to report on Team 3.

Team 3 headed up the mountain and put in a cache earlier in the day at 14,000ft, a little higher than normal, to save themselves a day of backtracking later on. They had not planned on caching, since the weather was looking questionable, but they never slowed down and were able to make their cache.

AAI guide Ian Mceleney was cooking everyone burritos for dinner and everyone was in really good spirits after a successful day.



Monday, May 23, 2016

2016 ARAM (May 16 - 24) Dispatch 7

May 22, 2016

Guides:

Andrew Yasso and Paul Rosser

Climbers:

Arnab Banjaree
Anya Jones
Barbara Audin
Leigh Audin

AAI guide Andrew Yasso called in late last night (5/22).

Unfortunately the ARAM team was unable to move down the glacier yesterday (as hoped), due to continuing weather - the "Alaska weather event." After contacting K2 Aviation earlier in the day, they were informed to stay at their current camp location, as it may be easier to fly them off the mountain from where they are at.

Since they had all that fresh snow, the ARAM group went over avalanche science and things to lookout for. They went and built some snow pits and played around in the fresh snow. AAI guides Andrew Yasso and Paul Rosser taught some in-depth lessons on mountain medicine and high altitude issues.

The ARAM ate some great food throughout the day: breakfast of bacon and hash browns, warm quesadillas for lunch, and tai noodles for dinner.

Even though the ARAM is currently in a holding pattern, unable to climb anything in the current conditions, everyone is safe and happy. Barbara Audin wanted to let her family know that she is doing well, and everyone is all good.

The ARAM team has plenty of food and fuel for the time being, but they are working on their exit strategy. Given their current situation, AAI guides Andrew and Paul are continuing to teach and test everyone on some new skills. For the time being, the ARAM is sitting in camp, "fat and happy," listening to music and having a great time! Hopefully we will hear some good news soon, if a weather window opens up and they are able to fly off the glacier.


Photo courtesy of AAI archives. 

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 2 (May 9 - 29) Dispatch 12

May 22, 2016

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Dennis Ougrin
Roxanne Litynska
Jerry Schuryk
Michael Torbett
Delfino DiMascio
Pedro Becquer
Georg Molnes


AAI guide Jeremy Devine called in yesterday (5/22) on day 14 of their expedition.

Team 2 woke up to somewhat clear skies with encroaching clouds moving toward their camp during breakfast. They packed up some day-gear and headed toward the fixed lines to work on their acclimatization. They made it a little over 1,000ft above Camp 3 before turning back toward camp due to the blustery winds and blowing snow. Everyone had a good time and was glad to get out and stretch their legs a bit. 

Hopefully the weather will break soon and allow Team 2 to make their way up to the fixed lines sometime soon. We're looking forward to another update from Team 2 soon!


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 2 (May 9 - 29) Dispatch 11

May 21, 2016

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Dennis Ougrin
Roxanne Litynska
Jerry Schuryk
Michael Torbett
Delfino DiMascio
Pedro Becquer
Georg Molnes

AAI lead guide Chad Cochran called in for Team 2 on Saturday, May 21st, on day 13 of their expedition.

The wind subsided a little bit Saturday, allowing Team 2 to get out of their tents and work on their skills and check out all their fresh snow. Team 2 practiced the fixed lines and got prepared for the future possibility of putting a cache higher up the mountain or trying to get acclimatized.

Team 2 is in good spirits and is really excited about hopefully moving up the mountain soon. We wish them good weather in the near future so they can make their way toward the summit!


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 3 (May 16 - June 5) Dispatch 6

May 22, 2016

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Ian Mceleney
Michael Wachs

Climbers:

Jeremy Cote
Penelope Walker
Julie Bedford
Barry Raferty
Freddie Walker
Daniel Goldstein
Rory McHugh
David Atkinson
Jonathan Dell Guidry

AAI guide Michael Wachs called in for Team 3 on Sunday (5/22), day 7 of their expedition.

Team 3 was having some medium winds and fresh snowfall on the mountain. They headed down and retrieved their cache from around 10,000ft earlier in the day. Everyone was in good spirits and had a delicious dinner.

Their current plan, assuming weather permits, is to head up the mountain tomorrow and make their cache at 14,000ft. We're looking forward to more from Team 3, soon!



2016 Denali West Buttress Team 1 (May 2 - 22) Dispatch 9

May 22, 2016

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Philip Ruegger
Aili Farquhar

Climbers:

Alex Gammeter
Markus Grohall
Michael Landstatter
Marc Meire
Markus Muller
Thomas Rumpf
Julia Schultz
Michael von Wolf

Lead Guide Tad McCrea called in last night (5/22) from Talkeetna, Alaska.

The second half of Team 1, aka "the Kobler machine," finally made it back to Talkeetna. Unfortunately Team 1 had some satellite phone malfunctions and were unable to report in once they reached Base Camp on Wednesday night (5/18). Team 1 had a party at the runway, celebrating their successful climb with some music and drinks.

The first half of Team 1 (6 people) was able to fly off the mountain on Thursday afternoon (5/19) and the second half of Team 1 flew off the mountain late Saturday night (5/21).

Team 1 was overall an extremely fun crew to work with and was very strong, which showed on all fronts. AAI guides had a great time and really enjoyed working with this group!


2016 ARAM (May 16 - 24) Dispatch 6

May 21, 2016

Guides:

Andrew Yasso and Paul Rosser

Climbers:

Arnab Banjaree
Anya Jones
Barbara Audin
Leigh Audin

AAI guide Andrew Yasso called in late Saturday evening to check in with us on the ARAM team. Everyone was all tucked in for the evening after a delicious dinner of mac-n-cheese.

The team's earlier plan of moving down the glacier and making their way out did not happen due to weather, so they were still camped out near the Mountain House. Their weather for the day included some strong winds, a ton of fresh snow, and low visibility.

The ARAM team went over a lot of skills, including crevasse rescue taught by AAI guide Paul Rosser, and timed testing that everyone passed with flying colors. AAI guide Andrew Yasso dug out a deep hole for the ARAM to use as a covered restroom during their storm.

The team's plan for tomorrow (5/22) will be to move down the glacier and get a change of scenery. Fingers crossed that the weather will break so the team can travel safely. If there is no weather break, they will remain at their current camp and continue to work on their skills.


Photo courtesy of AAI Archives. Climbers practiceing crevasse rescue on the Ruth Glacier.

Saturday, May 21, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 3 (May 16 - June 5) Dispatch 5

May 21, 2016

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Ian Mceleney
Michael Wachs

Climbers:

Jeremy Cote
Penelope Walker
Julie Bedford
Barry Raferty
Freddie Walker
Daniel Goldstein
Rory McHugh
David Atkinson
Jonathan Dell Guidry

AAI lead guide Andy Stephen called in earlier today, Saturday May 21st. Team 3 has had a productive rest day at Camp 2. They had some excellent meals and enjoyed some camp entertainment of games, music, and movies.

Hopefully Team 3 will be able to head down and retrieve their cache tomorrow.

Team members send messages back home, listen below:



2016 Denali West Buttress Team 2 (May 9 - 29) Dispatch 10

May 20, 2016

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Dennis Ougrin
Roxanne Litynska
Jerry Schuryk
Michael Torbett
Delfino DiMascio
Pedro Becquer
Georg Molnes

AAI lead guide Chad Cochran called in today on day 12 of their expedition.

Team 2 was experiencing some strong weather today so they chose to use this as a rest day, eating some good food and enjoying music from their cook tent.

Hopefully the weather will clear up soon so Team 2 can push further up the mountain.


Friday, May 20, 2016

2016 ARAM (May 16 - 24) Dispatch 5

May 20, 2016

Guides:

Andrew Yasso and Paul Rosser

Climbers:

Arnab Banjaree
Anya Jones
Barbara Audin
Leigh Audin

AAI guide Andrew Yasso called in earlier today to check in with us on the ARAM team.

Everyone is doing good and well, and they're looking forward to what the day brings them.

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 3 (May 16 - June 5) Dispatch 4

May 20, 2016

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Ian Mceleney
Michael Wachs

Climbers:

Jeremy Cote
Penelope Walker
Julie Bedford
Barry Raferty
Freddie Walker
Daniel Goldstein
Rory McHugh
David Atkinson
Jonathan Dell Guidry

AAI guide Ian Mceleny called in earlier today from Camp 2 (11,200ft/ 3,400m)!

Team 3 woke up yesterday (5/19) at Camp 1, working on the skills they will use higher up the mountain. They had a great lunch with fresh fruits and vegetables. After lunch, the team packed up their gear and made a strong push for Camp 2, arriving successfully yesterday evening. 

Team 3 is resting up today after the long push to Camp 2, with the potential for retrieving their cache later today or tomorrow. Everyone is working really well together and we're looking forward to hearing from them again, soon!

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 2 (May 9 - 29) Dispatch 9

May 20, 2016

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Dennis Ougrin
Roxanne Litynska
Jerry Schuryk
Michael Torbett
Delfino DiMascio
Pedro Becquer
Georg Molnes

AAI lead guide Chad Cochran called in today on day 11 of their expedition.

Team 2 spent the day around Camp 3, building some strong snow walls in preparation for some strong winds and weather they are anticipating. The team is working on acclimatizing really well at camp, relaxing and practicing their skills.

The team is hoping for good weather to come, however, they are expecting the weather may hold them at Camp 3 for a few days. Everyone is doing really well and having a great time. We look forward to hearing from Team 2 again, soon!

Thursday, May 19, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 2 (May 9 - 29) Dispatch 8

May 18, 2016

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Dennis Ougrin
Roxanne Litynska
Jerry Schuryk
Michael Torbett
Delfino DiMascio
Pedro Becquer
Georg Molnes

AAI guide Jeremy Devine called in to report on Team 2. Today (5/18) was a rest day for the team. After a long, hard push to reach Camp 3, they took advantage of the weather to build some good snow walls around their camp to protect from the high winds they could get in the future.

Team 2 ate a lot of good food, including a dinner of jumbalaya with chicken sausage that everyone enjoyed before going to bed at a good hour. The plan for tomorrow (5/19) is to retrieve their cache from Windy Corner (13,400ft) and bring it up to Camp 3.

Everyone is doing really well and we look forward to another update from Team 2 tomorrow!





2016 ARAM (May 16 - 24) Dispatch 4

May 18, 2016

Guides:

Andrew Yasso and Paul Rosser

Climbers:

Arnab Banjaree
Anya Jones
Barbara Audin
Leigh Audin

AAI guide Paul Rosser called in last night to report on day 4 (5/18) of the ARAM team.

The team had a wonderful day, staring off with a good, fast breakfast so they could get out of camp and go practice their crevasse rescues.

They found a really good crevasse to work with, having everyone run through some crevasse rescue scenarios and advanced crevasse rescue scenarios. After their practicing, the team had a long, leisurely walk back to camp, traversing the glacier and viewing the Ruth Gorge.

The ARAM group had an excellent dinner, cooked by AAI guide Andrew Yasso, of clam sauce over noodles, which was exceptional! They had raspberry crumble for desert, which was also excellent, and chased their desert with some wine.

Everyone is really enjoying learning new skills and being in the Ruth Gorge. We're looking forward to hearing from them again, soon!

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 3 (May 16 - June 5) Dispatch 4

May 18, 2016

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Ian Mceleney
Michael Wachs

Climbers:

Jeremy Cote
Penelope Walker
Julie Bedford
Barry Raferty
Freddie Walker
Daniel Goldstein
Rory McHugh
David Atkinson
Jonathan Dell Guidry

AAI guide Ian Mceleney called in yesterday evening to report in from Camp 1 (7,800ft/ 2,377m). Team 3 had a stormy night but woke up to a clear dawn.

For breakfast, the team had cinnamon buns and oranges. After breakfast, they packed up their gear and made a cache further up the mountain at Kahiltna Pass (~10,000ft).

It was a really good day weather-wise, being fairly hot throughout the day with really good views of the range. The team had a lot of fun! For the evening the team was resting up and refueling.

Tomorrow (5/19), if the weather holds, Team 3 will try to move up the mountain to Camp 2 (11,200ft/  3,413m). We are looking forward to hearing from them soon!


Wednesday, May 18, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 2 (May 9 - 29) Dispatch 7

May 17, 2016

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Dennis Ougrin
Roxanne Litynska
Jerry Schuryk
Michael Torbett
Delfino DiMascio
Pedro Becquer
Georg Molnes

AAI lead guide Chad Cochran called in yesterday (5/17) on day 9 of their expedition.

The team woke up early to variable weather conditions and wind, but chose to pack-up camp and make their push further up the mountain. Team 2 successfully made it to Camp 3 (14,200ft)!

The team is feeling a little worked from the long haul and headwinds during the day, but everyone is still feeling really strong and excited about their progress and may take the next day to relax and recuperate. We're looking forward to hearing from Team 2 again, soon!

Feel free to leave comments for team member. When guides can call in we can relay them back to your climber.


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 3 (May 16 - June 5) Dispatch 3

May 17, 2016

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Ian Mceleney
Michael Wachs

Climbers:

Jeremy Cote
Penelope Walker
Julie Bedford
Barry Raferty
Freddie Walker
Daniel Goldstein
Rory McHugh
David Atkinson
Jonathan Dell Guidry

AAI lead guide Andy Stephen called in yesterday (5/17) evening, about 10:00pm. Team 3 successfully made it to Camp 1 (7,800ft), just below Ski Hill, yesterday evening about 7:00pm.

They experienced some intermittent weather throughout the day that did not halt their movements. For the most part it was a good day and everyone was in really good spirits. AAI guide Ian Mceleney cooked the team some delicious burgers and made salad for dinner, using the last of their fresh vegetables.

Weather may move in on the team tomorrow, so they are going to play their movements by ear. The team may make a cache further up the mountain tomorrow, if the weather permits. We are looking forward to another update from the team soon!


2016 ARAM (May 16 - 24) Dispatch 3

Guides:

Andrew Yasso and Paul Rosser

Climbers:

Arnab Banjaree
Anya Jones
Barbara Audin
Leigh Audin

AAI guide Andrew Yasso called in last night (5/17/16) from just outside the Mountain House in the Ruth Gorge.

The team woke up yesterday to a cloudy day, the cold helped to keep the snow firm. AAI guide Paul Rosser cooked the team the "best pancakes in the Ruth Gorge," with real maple syrup. Everyone loved them!

The team spent the morning practicing self-arresting and anchor building, placing some very sturdy snow protection. For lunch, the team had hot tuna melts.

Their evening consisted of another glacier tour, this time with the climbers leading the group through an ice fall, learning route finding and avoiding objective hazards.

Unfortunately the weather turned during the evening, so the team made for an early night. They plan to practice more skills tomorrow. Over the next few days, the team will also learn more challenging glacial navigation skills.



Photo courtesy of AAI archives. Climbers on the Ruth Gorge. 

Tuesday, May 17, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 3 (May 16 - June 5) Dispatch 2

May 17th, 2016

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Ian Mceleney
Michael Wachs

Climbers:

Jeremy Cote
Penelope Walker
Julie Bedford
Barry Raferty
Freddie Walker
Daniel Goldstein
Rory McHugh
David Atkinson
Jonathan Dell Guidry

AAI lead guide Andy Stephen called in this morning (5/17) from Base Camp.

Team 3 flew in yesterday evening (5/16) with beautiful conditions and set-up at Base Camp. The team learned a few necessary skills and had a delicious dinner of pad tai.

The weather is a slightly socked in this morning, having had a little fresh snow overnight. The team will start the day with a hearty breakfast before learning additional skills. 

The team is hopeful of moving up to Camp 1 (7,800ft) later today, as the conditions are looking great for that possibility.

Everyone on Team 3 is getting along great and having a good time. The team is looking forward to moving higher up the mountain later today!


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 2 (May 9 - 29) Dispatch 6 from May 16th

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Dennis Ougrin
Roxanne Litynska
Jerry Schuryk
Michael Torbett
Delfino DiMascio
Pedro Becquer
Georg Molnes

AAI guide Jeremy Devine called in from Camp 2 yesterday evening (5/16). The AAI Team 2 woke up to great weather and mostly clear skies.

After a hearty egg breakfast, the team made their cache at Windy Corner (13,400ft). The team returned to Camp 2 around 5:30pm and had a delicious and filling burrito dinner.

Tomorrow the team will be packing up and making the push to Camp 3 (14,200ft).

2016 ARAM (May 15 - 24) Dispatch 2

May 16, 2016

Guides:

Andrew Yasso and Paul Rosser

Climbers:

Arnab Banjaree
Anya Jones
Barbara Audin
Leigh Audin

AAI guide Andrew Yasso called in yesterday from just outside the Mountain House on the Ruth Gorge.

The AAI ARAM team woke up to a healthy breakfast of hash browns, bacon, and toasted English muffins. After breakfast AAI guide Paul Rosser taught the team how to build snow walls.

The team then worked on their glacier travel skills before going on a glacier tour looking for crevasses to play in later on. They discussed glaciology while watching mini-avalanches from a safe difference.

Dinner for the team was cooked by Andrew tai peanut noodles and an experiment of trying coconut pudding, but edible none the less.

Tomorrow the team will work on snow skills, self-arrest, anchor building, and getting geared up for crevasse rescue skills in the coming days.


Photo Courtesy of AAI Archives. Alaska Range from the Banks of Talkeetna River.

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 1 (May 2 - 22) Dispatch 9

May 17, 2016

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Philip Ruegger
Aili Farquhar

Climbers:

Alex Gammeter
Markus Grohall
Michael Landstatter
Marc Meire
Markus Muller
Thomas Rumpf
Julia Schultz
Michael von Wolf

Lead Guide Tad McCrea called in and stated that they are moving down from high camp today. They will get down to 14-Camp and then decide if they're going to continue down to the 11,000-foot camp.

The team is very happy!

--Jason D. Martin


Monday, May 16, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 1 (May 2 - 22) Dispatch 8 - Summit Day!

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Philip Ruegger
Aili Farquhar

Climbers:

Alex Gammeter
Markus Grohall
Michael Landstatter
Marc Meire
Markus Muller
Thomas Rumpf
Julia Schultz
Michael von Wolf

Lead Guide Tad McCrea called this evening from the summit of North America!

This is the team's second time above 6000m as their first summit attempt was aborted by very windy conditions.

Congrats to everyone on Team 1 and good work Tad, Aili and Britt!


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 3 (May 16 - June 5) Dispatch 1

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Ian Mceleney
Michael Wachs

Climbers:

Jeremy Cote
Penelope Walker
Julie Bedford
Barry Raferty
Freddie Walker
Daniel Goldstein
Rory McHugh
David Atkinson
Jonathan Dell Guidry

Team 3 is flying on!

Wish them luck.


2016 ARAM (May 15 - 24) Dispatch 1

May 15th, 2016

Guides:

Andrew Yasso and Paul Rosser

Climbers:

Arnab Banjaree
Anya Jones
Barbara Audin
Leigh Audin

AAI guide Andrew Yasso called in.

The AAI ARAM team safely flew into the Mountain House on the Ruth Glacier.

They had a beautiful flight in and enjoyed Carbonara from scratch for dinner made by AAI guide Paul Rosser.

Today (5/16) is the first full day of snow school and learning for the climbers in easily the most picturesque part of the Alaska Range.

Looking forward to hearing more from the Ruth!


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 2 (May 9 - 29) Dispatch 6

May 16, 2016

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Dennis Ougrin
Roxanne Litynska
Jerry Schuryk
Michael Torbett
Delfino DiMascio
Pedro Becquer
Georg Molnes

Lead guide Chad Cochran called in this morning.

Team 2 is at Camp 2 (11,200ft) and has retrieved their cache from 10,000ft.

The group slept in this morning and had a huge breakfast to help recover from their heavy move days on the lower mountain and prep for the big cache around Windy Corner and up to 14.

Camp 2 provides a climbing expedition it's first chance to look out of the Alaska Range between Mount Capps (10,790ft) and Kahiltna Dome (12,525ft) into Denali National Park. A welcome sight to see something green and brown instead of all white.

Weather is looking good on the horizon!


Sunday, May 15, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 1 (May 2 - 22) - Dispatch 7

Guides: 

Tad McCrea
Philip Ruegger
Aili Farquhar

Climbers:

Alex Gammeter
Markus Grohall
Michael Landstatter
Marc Meire
Markus Muller
Thomas Rumpf
Julia Schultz
Michael von Wolf

AAI guide Aili Farquahr called in from High Camp (17,300ft) late last night/this morning.

Team 1 made a summit attempt yesterday but due to very windy conditions had to return to High Camp.

They are currently in a holding pattern but are looking to make a push for the summit in the next day or two.

Wish them luck and good weather! They are in a great spot and need a good weather window.


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 2 (May 9 - 29) Dispatch 5

May 15, 2016

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Dennis Ougrin
Roxanne Litynska
Jerry Schuryk
Michael Torbett
Delfino DiMascio
Pedro Becquer
Georg Molnes

Lead guide Chad Cochran called in this morning to report that Team 2 is moving up to Camp 2 (11,200ft).

The weather is quite nice on the lower mountain and everyone has been working well together starting with digging out camp but also cleaning up and leaving the glacier camp in good condition.

Team 2 will look to cache at Windy Corner tomorrow before moving to Camp 3 (14,200ft on Tuesday.

Moving to Camp 2 is a big day but Chad is confident everyone will move strong and efficiently.

Friday, May 13, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 2 (May 9-29) Dispatch 4

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Dennis Ougrin
Roxanne Litynska
Jerry Schuryk
Michael Torbett
Delfino DiMascio
Pedro Becquer
Georg Molnes

AAI Guide Jeremy Devine called in this morning letting everyone know that Team 2 cached at approximately 10,000ft (just below Camp 2).

Everyone did well and moved strongly. The weather has been variable on the lower mountain so far but the extended forecast is looking good for when the team moves to Camp 2, caches at Windy Corner, and then the big move to Camp 3 (14,200ft).

Could hear some laughter from everyone in the background. Good to hear people are still having fun in the harsh environment that can be Denali.

Team 2 is probably going to take a rest day today before moving to Camp 2 tomorrow.


Thursday, May 12, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 1 (May 2 - 22) Dispatch 6

Guides: 

Tad McCrea
Philip Ruegger
Aili Farquhar

Climbers:

Alex Gammeter
Markus Grohall
Michael Landstatter
Marc Meire
Markus Muller
Thomas Rumpf
Julia Schultz
Michael von Wolf

Lead Guide Tad McCrea called in early this morning to let us know their hopes to cache above the fixed lines was delayed due to some sketchy weather.

Tomorrow looks to be better for them to make it above the fixed lines.

Enjoying another rest day and down time in the tents. Good food and games help pass the time as they wait for the weather to clear up.

Also, May 12th marks the 31st birthday for AAI lead guide Tad McCrea! Wish him well today.

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 2 (May 9 - 29) Dispatch 3

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Dennis Ougrin
Roxanne Litynska
Jerry Schuryk
Michael Torbett
Delfino DiMascio
Pedro Becquer
Georg Molnes

Lead Guide Chad Cochran called in early this morning to inform us that Team 2 successfully made it to Camp 1 (7800ft) at the base of Ski Hill.

They woke up to some variable conditions with some mixed snow and clouds that eventually turned into poor visibility but the route was well marked and they made the big 5.5 mile push to Camp 1.

After about 7 hours of walking and then doing a great job of building camp together, the team settled in for a delicious meal of Alfredo Pasta.

Team 2 is looking to cache around 10,00ft today to prep for their move to Camp 2 (11,200ft).


Wednesday, May 11, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 1 (May 2 - 22) Dispatch 5

Guides: 

Tad McCrea
Philip Ruegger
Aili Farquhar

Climbers:

Alex Gammeter
Markus Grohall
Michael Landstatter
Marc Meire
Markus Muller
Thomas Rumpf
Julia Schultz
Michael von Wolf

Lead guide Tad McCrea left a voicemail last night.

After enjoying a rest day, they are looking to make a cache above the fixed (16,200ft).

The team did a fine job practicing their fixed line movement and running belays for the ridge above the headwall.

They are currently enjoying a good dinner of egg and sausage sandwiches.

Once the cache is placed the team will be in a great position to make a push for High Camp and then to the summit! Stay tuned.







2016 Denali West Buttress Team 2 (May 9-29), Dispatch 2

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Dennis Ougrin
Roxanne Litynska
Jerry Schuryk
Michael Torbett
Delfino DiMascio
Pedro Becquer
Georg Molnes

AAI guide Jim Mediatore called from Kahiltna Base Camp early this morning. After being delayed 1 day the team is now on the mountain and ready to begin moving up.

Jeremy Devine prepared a delicious meal of veggie burgers and salad and quickly reviewed some glacier skills.

The weather is pleasant and they have great views of Mount Foraker (17,400ft) and Mount Hunter (14,573ft).

Later today they will begin making their way up the Kahiltna Glacier towards Camp 1 (7,800ft).


Tuesday, May 10, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 1 (May 2 - 22) Dispatch 4

Guides: 

Tad McCrea
Philip Ruegger
Aili Farquhar

Climbers:

Alex Gammeter
Markus Grohall
Michael Landstatter
Marc Meire
Markus Muller
Thomas Rumpf
Julia Schultz
Michael von Wolf

Lead guide Tad McCrea called in. Team 1 has had a very successful couple day. They cached around Windy Corner at 13,500ft and returned to Camp 2 (11,200ft). The next day they made the big move to 14 Camp and are hunkered down enjoying some really good food and "carbing up" for their cache above the fixed lines.

Team 1 will enjoy a well earned rest day today.

Photos to come this afternoon!

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 2 (May 9 -29) Dispatch 1

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Dennis Ougrin 
Roxanne Litynska 
Jerry Schuryk
Michael Torbett
Delfino DiMascio
Pedro Becquer
Georg Molnes

After being grounded due to weather yesterday Team 2 is flying to Denali Base Camp right now!


Thursday, May 5, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 1 (May 2-22), Dispatch 3

Guides: 

Tad McCrea
Philip Ruegger
Aili Farquhar

Climbers:

Alex Gammeter
Markus Grohall
Michael Landstatter
Marc Meire
Markus Muller
Thomas Rumpf
Julia Schultz
Michael von Wolf

AAI Guide Aili Farquhar called early this morning.

Team 1 has made their cache at roughly 10,000ft just below Camp 2 (11,200ft).

They enjoyed a delicious dinner of humus, green vegetables and warm pita bread to carb up for the move to Camp 2 tomorrow!

This team is moving up the mountain at a great pace and will be enjoying a well earned rest day at Camp 2 soon.


Wednesday, May 4, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 1 (May 2-22), Dispatch 2

Guides: 

Tad McCrea
Philip Ruegger
Aili Farquhar

Climbers:

Alex Gammeter
Markus Grohall
Michael Landstatter
Marc Meire
Markus Muller
Thomas Rumpf
Julia Schultz
Michael von Wolf

AAI Guide Aili Farquhar called in at 1:00am this morning to inform us that Team 1 made it safely to Camp 1 (7,800ft) at the base of Ski Hill.

This is the heaviest move day of the entire expedition and the group did very well as they made their way 5.5 miles from Base Camp to Camp 1. Aili states that it was quite warm on the lower glacier but was lightly snowing. A snow storm arrived just after they landed at Base Camp so they are all happy to be there. 

AAI Team 1 is one of the first teams on the mountain this year and they are breaking trail!


Tuesday, May 3, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress, Team 1 (May 2 - 22), Dispatch 1

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Philip Ruegger
Aili Farquhar

Climbers:

Alex Gammeter
Markus Grohall
Michael Landstatter
Marc Meire
Markus Muller
Thomas Rumpf
Julia Schultz
Michael von Wolf

Team 1 led by Tad McCrea has safely and successfully flown into Base Camp (May 2nd).

They are one of the first teams on the mountain and will begin building a fortified camp, and quickly review glacier skills and sled travel before making their way to Camp 1 at the base of Ski Hill (7800ft).

Tad, Aili, and Britt are excited about the skills and fitness level of this crew and have already made a strong team dynamic.

More later today!