Tuesday, June 25, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 9 - 29) - Dispatch 13

Guides:

Will Gordon
Wyatt Evenson
Sam Fletcher

Climbers:

Andrew Zuehlke
Damian Browne
Liza Hunter-Galvan
Danzi Lu
Eric Tutterow
Joshua Schulte
Finn Ghent
Michael Perche

Team 6 has returned to Talkeetna and are starting to make their departures home.  Everyone is doing well and had a great trip! 

Saturday, June 22, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 9 - 29) - Dispatch 12

Guides:

Will Gordon
Wyatt Evenson
Sam Fletcher

Climbers:

Andrew Zuehlke
Damian Browne
Liza Hunter-Galvan
Danzi Lu
Eric Tutterow
Joshua Schulte
Finn Ghent
Michael Perche

Team 6 payed homage to Summer Solstice in true alpine style...everyone tagged the tip-top of North America. Way to go team 6!

Thursday, June 20, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 9 - 29) - Dispatch 11

Guides:

Will Gordon
Wyatt Evenson
Sam Fletcher

Climbers:

Andrew Zuehlke
Damian Browne
Liza Hunter-Galvan
Danzi Lu
Eric Tutterow
Joshua Schulte
Finn Ghent
Michael Perche

Team 6 is at High Camp (17,300ft). They arrived late in the afternoon and a looking forward to a ramen dinner. Weather is looking good for a summit attempt either Friday or Saturday.
 

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 9 - 29) - Dispatch 10

Guides:

Will Gordon
Wyatt Evenson
Sam Fletcher

Climbers:

Andrew Zuehlke
Damian Browne
Liza Hunter-Galvan
Danzi Lu
Eric Tutterow
Joshua Schulte
Finn Ghent
Michael Perche

Team 6 is set to make a move up to High Camp today.  They will check in when they are settled in. 

Wednesday, June 19, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 9 - 29) - Dispatch 9

Guides:

Will Gordon
Wyatt Evenson
Sam Fletcher

Climbers:

Andrew Zuehlke
Damian Browne
Liza Hunter-Galvan
Danzi Lu
Eric Tutterow
Joshua Schulte
Finn Ghent
Michael Perche

Team 6 has placed their cache above the Fixed Lines and are ready to move up to Camp 4/High Camp in the coming days.

For more details on the West Buttress route visit our Denali Expedition webpage and look under the "Route" description tab.


2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 2 - June 22, 2019) Dispatch 14

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jared Drapala
Katlynne Schaumberg

Climbers:

Tor Brigg-Gjesdal
Frank Wendt
Poobalan Kannan
Richard Capelouto
Jeffrey Capelouto
Corin Kwasnik
Eric Ferguson
Mimmi Snell
Brad Hartman

Team 5 is off the mountain and has returned to Talkeetna, AK. From here everyone will begin their departures home. 

Monday, June 17, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 2 - June 22, 2019) Dispatch 13

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jared Drapala
Katlynne Schaumberg

Climbers:

Tor Brigg-Gjesdal
Frank Wendt
Poobalan Kannan
Richard Capelouto
Jeffrey Capelouto
Corin Kwasnik
Eric Ferguson
Mimmi Snell
Brad Hartman

Team 5 has made it back to Base Camp where they will await for their flight back to Talkeetna. Weather has been fair and everyone is continues to be in high spirits, eating well, and having a wonderful time. 

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 9 - 29) - Dispatch 8

Guides:

Will Gordon
Wyatt Evenson
Sam Fletcher

Climbers:

Andrew Zuehlke
Damian Browne
Liza Hunter-Galvan
Danzi Lu
Eric Tutterow
Joshua Schulte
Finn Ghent
Michael Perche

Team 6 took a rest day today at Camp 3. They did spend some time on the  fixed lines reviewing techniques to make sure everyone is comfortable before heading up with full gear loads. 
 

Sunday, June 16, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 9 - 29) - Dispatch 7

Guides:

Will Gordon
Wyatt Evenson
Sam Fletcher

Climbers:

Andrew Zuehlke
Damian Browne
Liza Hunter-Galvan
Danzi Lu
Eric Tutterow
Joshua Schulte
Finn Ghent
Michael Perche



Team 6 sends out a "Happy Father's Day"message from Camp 3. Monday, they plan a skills day on on the Fixed Lines before moving up to the next camp in the coming days. 


2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 2 - June 22, 2019) Dispatch 12

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jared Drapala
Katlynne Schaumberg

Climbers:

Tor Brigg-Gjesdal
Frank Wendt
Poobalan Kannan
Richard Capelouto
Jeffrey Capelouto
Corin Kwasnik
Eric Ferguson
Mimmi Snell
Brad Hartman

Team 5 spent another rest day at Camp 3 (14,300ft). If weather holds out, they plan to move down to Base Camp and fly out on Monday. 

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 9 - 29) - Dispatch 6

Guides:

Will Gordon
Wyatt Evenson
Sam Fletcher

Climbers:

Andrew Zuehlke
Damian Browne
Liza Hunter-Galvan
Danzi Lu
Eric Tutterow
Joshua Schulte
Finn Ghent
Michael Perche

Team 6 has moved up to Camp 3. Mac and Cheese is on the dinner menu tonight.


Saturday, June 15, 2019


Ecuador High Altitude Trip Report

Guide: Romel Sandoval

Climbers: Chris B., Brian R., Mengezi N.


Hi Again!  This is Romel calling from Ecuador to let you know we have been on Chimborazo for the last couple of days but not able to climb the mountain.  

We stayed at the hut on Tuesday night and woke up Wednesday morning with the plan to move to a high camp on the mountain's flank.    We made it to the high camp area as planned, but it was so windy – and getting worse – that it wasn't at all practical to set up camp.  It was crazy.  

So we turned around and headed back down to the refuge for the night, thinking we could make the climb from there early Thursday.  It would have been a much longer day but probably still possible for our team to summit if we had decent weather.    

Wednesday afternoon and night it stayed about the same.  The wind was a little less strong, but it really wasn't much of an improvement.  So the team thought about climbing in the weather just to see how far we could get, or taking the other option which was to head down to the town of Baños, where we had planned to go after the climb.  

Baños is off the high plain of Ecuador's Central Valley, and is part way down a narrow river valley that leads to the Amazon Basin.  The town has palm trees and hot springs, so as we debated and put our noses in the wind, we came to the conclusion that Baños was the best idea.  So here we are, having left the alpine zone for a semi-tropical paradise.  

It has been really strange weather for June.  Usually it is quite nice at this time of year, but today (Friday) we have a warm rain.  We had a good breakfast and then headed out for a hike to a beautiful waterfall.  Everyone enjoyed being in the warm environment.  The intense green here is quite the contrast to the beautiful mountains where we have been, the land of rock and ice.  

Late this afternoon we are driving back to Quito where we will have our final dinner together before heading home tomorrow morning.

We've had a great trip and a fun time together !  Good food and great company in the beautiful mountains.  And finally, thanks for reading our news.
.

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 9 - 29) - Dispatch 5

Guides:

Will Gordon
Wyatt Evenson
Sam Fletcher

Climbers:

Andrew Zuehlke
Damian Browne
Liza Hunter-Galvan
Danzi Lu
Eric Tutterow
Joshua Schulte
Finn Ghent
Michael Perche

Team 6 has placed their cache at 13,500ft. They will move up to Camp 3 tomorrow.  Weather has been great and everyone is doing well. 


2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 2 - June 22, 2019) Dispatch 11

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jared Drapala
Katlynne Schaumberg

Climbers:

Tor Brigg-Gjesdal
Frank Wendt
Poobalan Kannan
Richard Capelouto
Jeffrey Capelouto
Corin Kwasnik
Eric Ferguson
Mimmi Snell
Brad Hartman

Team 5 has moved back down to Camp 3 (14,300ft) where they will take a rest day before moving down to Base Camp. 

Friday, June 14, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 2 - June 22, 2019) Dispatch 10

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jared Drapala
Katlynne Schaumberg

Climbers:

Tor Brigg-Gjesdal
Frank Wendt
Poobalan Kannan
Richard Capelouto
Jeffrey Capelouto
Corin Kwasnik
Eric Ferguson
Mimmi Snell
Brad Hartman

Team 5 checked in from High Camp after a successful summit day! The weather was perfect and everyone was feeling strong, so it all came together for a fantastic day on Denali. After their return to camp they refueled and rested for the night. They will begin the process of moving back down the mountain. Way to go Team 5! 

Thursday, June 13, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 9 - 29) - Dispatch 4

Guides:

Will Gordon
Wyatt Evenson
Sam Fletcher
Parker Kempf

Climbers:

Andrew Zuehlke
Damian Browne
Liza Hunter-Galvan
Danzi Lu
Eric Tutterow
Joshua Schulte
Finn Ghent
Michael Perche

Team 6 has moved up to Camp 2. The day started out in hot conditions, but as they crested Ski Hill the temperatures became more pleasant. The plan for the next few days is to retrieve their cache from below Camp 2 and begin to move toward Camp 3.


Guide Parker Kempf has returned to Talkeetna due to illness. Guide Sam Fletcher has joined Team 6 to fill in for the remainder of the trip.


2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 2 - June 22, 2019) Dispatch 9

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jared Drapala
Katlynne Schaumberg

Climbers:

Tor Brigg-Gjesdal
Frank Wendt
Poobalan Kannan
Richard Capelouto
Jeffrey Capelouto
Corin Kwasnik
Eric Ferguson
Mimmi Snell
Brad Hartman

Team 5 has moved up to High Camp (17,300ft).  They are looking at a bid for the summit either on Friday or Saturday. Everyone is doing well and spirits are high. 

Wednesday, June 12, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 9 - 29) - Dispatch 4

Guides:

Will Gordon
Wyatt Evenson
Parker Kempf

Climbers:

Andrew Zuehlke
Damian Browne
Liza Hunter-Galvan
Danzi Lu
Eric Tutterow
Joshua Schulte
Finn Ghent
Michael Perche

Team 6 checked into the office from Camp 1.  They are taking a rest and acclimitization day before moving up to Camp 2. Everyone is doing great and looking forward to the next push up. 

No audio to go with this distpatch. 

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 2 - June 22, 2019) Dispatch 8

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jared Drapala
Katlynne Schaumberg

Climbers:

Tor Brigg-Gjesdal
Frank Wendt
Poobalan Kannan
Richard Capelouto
Jeffrey Capelouto
Corin Kwasnik
Eric Ferguson
Mimmi Snell
Brad Hartman

Team 5 checking in from Camp 3 (14,200ft).  They had a great day on the mountain. Resting up, acclimitizing, and carbo. loading. They are prepared to move up to High Camp (17,300ft) and the weather is looking good for a planned summit attempt on Friday. 

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 2 - June 22, 2019) Dispatch 7

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jared Drapala
Katlynne Schaumberg

Climbers:

Tor Brigg-Gjesdal
Frank Wendt
Poobalan Kannan
Richard Capelouto
Jeffrey Capelouto
Corin Kwasnik
Eric Ferguson
Mimmi Snell
Brad Hartman

Team 5 took a rest day at Camp 3 (14,200ft) today. They filled their bellies with delicious brown bread sandwiches and enjoyed the down time.  

Tuesday, June 11, 2019

2019 Ecuador Cotopaxi Skills Expedition (Trip 6: June 01-10, 2019) Dispatch 2

Ecuador High Altitude Trip Report


Guide: Romel Sandoval


Climbers:
 Chris B., Brian R., Mengezi N.


After two days of heavy rain and strong wind, the team took advantage of a good weather window to make their summit bid up Cayambe. The team pushed up to 17,000 ft. in agreeable weather but the altitude got the better of them and they made the decision to descend for some rest and recovery. Although the team is disappointed not to have made the summit, Bryan reports that they're still in high spirits and that the cultural aspect of the trip has been a high point. 


2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 9 - 29) - Dispatch 3

Guides:

Will Gordon
Wyatt Evenson
Parker Kempf

Climbers:

Andrew Zuehlke
Damian Browne
Liza Hunter-Galvan
Danzi Lu
Eric Tutterow
Joshua Schulte
Finn Ghent
Michael Perche

It was a hot and sunny day on the mountain, so Team 6 really worked up a sweat moving their cache up to 10K feet, placing it just below Camp 2. They returned to Camp 1 (7,800ft) for black bean burger dinner and a good night's sleep.  They will move themselves and the rest of the gear up to Camp 2 in the coming days.

Monday, June 10, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 9 - 29) - Dispatch 2

Guides:

Will Gordon
Wyatt Evenson
Parker Kempf

Climbers:

Andrew Zuehlke
Damian Browne
Liza Hunter-Galvan
Danzi Lu
Eric Tutterow
Joshua Schulte
Finn Ghent
Michael Perche

Team 6 checking in from Camp 1 (7,800ft). The team is off to a great start. After leaving Talkeetna and landing at Base Camp, they made quick work of rigging sleads and having lunch, before heading up to their first camp and night on the mountain. 


2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 26 - June 15, 2019) Dispatch 12

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Seth White
Sam Fletcher

Climbers:

Russell Hornsby
Stefan Nel
Jason Schocker
Sarah Turje
Chris Parrot
Graham Parrot

Team 4 has made it down to Camp 3 (14,200ft) where they will stay for the night. Monday they plan to descend to Base Camp and hopefully fly out. 
 

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 2 - June 22, 2019) Dispatch 6

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jared Drapala
Katlynne Schaumberg

Climbers:

Tor Brigg-Gjesdal
Frank Wendt
Poobalan Kannan
Richard Capelouto
Jeffrey Capelouto
Corin Kwasnik
Eric Ferguson
Mimmi Snell
Brad Hartman

Team 5 calling from Camp 3 (14,200ft). They spent the day retrieving their cache from below at 13,500ft and will move it up to cache at 16,000ft. They celebrated the day's hard work and appreciation for being on the "Great One"with a Thanksgiving Dinner.

Sunday, June 9, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 9 - 29) - Dispatch 1

Guides:

Will Gordon
Wyatt Evenson
Parker Kempf

Climbers:

Andrew Zuehlke
Damian Browne
Liza Hunter-Galvan
Danzi Lu
Eric Tutterow
Joshua Schulte
Finn Ghent
Michael Perche

Team 6 is departing Talkeetna and flying into base camp. The plan is to head to Camp 1 for the first night on the mountain. 



2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 26 - June 15, 2019) Dispatch 11

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Seth White
Sam Fletcher

Climbers:

Russell Hornsby
Stefan Nel
Jason Schocker
Sarah Turje
Chris Parrot
Graham Parrot

Team 4 has returned to Camp 4 (17,300ft) after successfully making it to the summit! Everyone is feeling proud of their accomplishment and thankful the weather held out. The team will start to work their way back down the mountain and fly out of base camp in the coming days. 

Saturday, June 8, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 2 - June 22, 2019) Dispatch 5

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jared Drapala
Katlynne Schaumberg

Climbers:

Tor Brigg-Gjesdal
Frank Wendt
Poobalan Kannan
Richard Capelouto
Jeffrey Capelouto
Corin Kwasnik
Eric Ferguson
Mimmi Snell
Brad Hartman

Under sunny skies, Team 5 was able to move up to Camp 3 today. Everyone is doing great. 

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2019) Dispatch 16

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Calvin Morris
Julie Ann Holder

 Climbers:

James Cocco
James Kinkaid
John Brown
Odd Bolin
David Christian
Arve Blitzner
Krisli Melesk

Team 3 is off the mountain and back in the town of Talkeetna. Everyone is doing great. 

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 9 - 29)

Guides:

Will Gordon
Wyatt Evenson
Parker Kempf

Climbers:

Andrew Zuehlke
Damian Browne
Liza Hunter-Galvan
Danzi Lu
Eric Tutterow
Joshua Schulte
Finn Ghent
Michael Perche

Team 6 has met in Anchorage and enjoyed a pre-expedition team meal. Looking forward to good flying weather tomorrow!



2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 26 - June 15, 2019) Dispatch 10

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Seth White
Sam Fletcher

Climbers:

Russell Hornsby
Stefan Nel
Jason Schocker
Sarah Turje
Chris Parrot
Graham Parrot

Team 4 has reached Camp 4 (17,300ft). Weather window is looking promising for a summit attempt in the next few days. 

Friday, June 7, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2019) Dispatch 15

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Calvin Morris
Julie Ann Holder

 Climbers:

James Cocco
James Kinkaid
John Brown
Odd Bolin
David Christian
Arve Blitzner
Krisli Melesk



Thursday, June 6, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 26 - June 15, 2019) Dispatch 9

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Seth White
Sam Fletcher

Climbers:

Russell Hornsby
Stefan Nel
Jason Schocker
Sarah Turje
Chris Parrot
Graham Parrot

Team 4 takes a rest day at Camp 3 (14,200ft) 


2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 2 - June 22, 2019) Dispatch 4

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jared Drapala
Katlynne Schaumberg

Climbers:

Tor Brigg-Gjesdal
Frank Wendt
Poobalan Kannan
Richard Capelouto
Jeffrey Capelouto
Corin Kwasnik
Eric Ferguson
Mimmi Snell
Brad Hartman

Team 5 reaches reaches Camp 2 (11,200ft)


2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 19 - June 8, 2019) Dispatch 18

Guides:
Chad Cochran
Kevin McGarity
George Bieker

 Climbers: Josh Hoyle
Robert Bradshaw
Jard Bringedal
Joanne Drummond
Andrew Green
Nicola Simpson
Nicola Tannahil
Maleka Taylor
Robert Tyler

Team 2 begins descent after final summit push 

2019 Ecuador Cotopaxi Skills Expedition (Trip 6: June 01-10, 2019) Dispatch 1

Ecuador High Altitude Trip Report


Guide: Romel Sandoval


Climbers:
Chris B., Brian R., Mengezi N.


"Hello – this is Romel calling from Ecuador to let you know we had a successful climbing of Rucu Pichincha [4,697m /15,413 ft] and that we had a wonderful day!

The weather was very nice and everyone was feeling good with the altitude. Besides doing a walking tour of Quito [2,850 m / 9,350 ft at the beginning of the program, this as our second high altitude hiking day after Pasochoa [4,199m /13,776 ft].

We made good time on the hike and with the weather so nice, we enjoyed the views al the way up and then spent a lot of time on the summit, identifying the many peaks, taking photos, eating of course – basically enjoying the great views together.

We descended and then drove north to the old Hacienda Guachala which operated a farm on the slopes below Cayamabe [5,790m / 18,996 ft] our first big climbing goal.

Everyone is a little tired, but we're going to have a very nice, low-key evening to recover. Our job this evening is to eat well and rest, then get up moderately early for breakfast and then a drive up to the Cayambe hut. We'll do another moderate acclimatization hike in the afternoon, demonstrate some climbing techniques.

The next day we'll head up to the glacier to work on glacier climbing skills for the ascent, and our plan will be to have an early dinner and an early to-bed-time so we can get up at about 11 pm. We want to make a very early start on the climb – hopefully by midnight – so we climbing in the coldest part of the night.

Hopefully it will freeze, as that will give us really good climbing conditions on the glacier surface. If the glacier's surface snow is frozen, it will make it a lot easier and take less energy then if it is soft or sloppy.

We won't have a good signal at the hut, so we'll try to call in a report late Friday or Saturday when we are back at the hacienda. Wish us good luck on the our climb! "



Wednesday, June 5, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2019) Dispatch 14

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Calvin Morris
Julie Ann Holder

 Climbers:

James Cocco
James Kinkaid
John Brown
Odd Bolin
David Christian
Arve Blitzner
Krisli Melesk

 Team 3 plans to move to High Camp/Camp 4 (17,300ft) tomorrow


2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 26 - June 15, 2019) Dispatch 8

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Seth White
Sam Fletcher

Climbers:

Russell Hornsby
Stefan Nel
Jason Schocker
Sarah Turje
Chris Parrot
Graham Parrot

Team 4 rests at Camp 3 (14,200ft) and prepares for fixed lines.
 

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 2 - June 22, 2019) Dispatch 3

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jared Drapala
Katlynne Schaumberg

Climbers:

Tor Brigg-Gjesdal
Frank Wendt
Poobalan Kannan
Richard Capelouto
Jeffrey Capelouto
Corin Kwasnik
Eric Ferguson
Mimmi Snell
Brad Hartman

Team 5 reaches Camp (7,800ft) and caches at 10,000ft just below Camp 2 (11,200ft)


2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 26 - June 15, 2019) Dispatch 7

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Seth White
Sam Fletcher

Climbers:

Russell Hornsby
Stefan Nel
Jason Schocker
Sarah Turje
Chris Parrot
Graham Parrot

A successful few days for Team 4 as they moved up to Camp 3 (14,200ft)



2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 19 - June 8, 2019) Dispatch 17


Guides:
Chad Cochran
Kevin McGarity
George Bieker

 Climbers: Josh Hoyle
Robert Bradshaw
Jard Bringedal
Joanne Drummond
Andrew Green
Nicola Simpson
Nicola Tannahil
Maleka Taylor
Robert Tyler

Team 2 rests and acclimatizes at High Camp (17,300ft) in high winds
 

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2019) Dispatch 13


Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Calvin Morris
Julie Ann Holder

 Climbers:

James Cocco
James Kinkaid
John Brown
Odd Bolin
David Christian
Arve Blitzner
Krisli Melesk

 Team 3 still patiently waiting for a weather window at Camp 3 (14,200ft)


Tuesday, June 4, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 26 - June 15, 2019) Dispatch 6


Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Seth White
Sam Fletcher

Climbers:

Russell Hornsby
Stefan Nel
Jason Schocker
Sarah Turje
Chris Parrot
Graham Parrot

Team 4 continues planning and preparing to move to Camp 3 (14,200ft) as challenging weather hits the lower mountain

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 2 - June 22, 2019) Dispatch 2


Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jared Drapala
Katlynne Schaumberg

Climbers:

Tor Brigg-Gjesdal
Frank Wendt
Poobalan Kannan
Richard Capelouto
Jeffrey Capelouto
Corin Kwasnik
Eric Ferguson
Mimmi Snell
Brad Hartman

Team 5 changes to a night a schedule for stronger snow bridges and firmer conditions on the glacier as they move to Camp 1 (7,800ft)

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2019) Dispatch 12

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Calvin Morris
Julie Ann Holder

 Climbers:

James Cocco
James Kinkaid
John Brown
Odd Bolin
David Christian
Arve Blitzner
Krisli Melesk

 Team 3 patiently waits for a weather window at Camp 3 (14,200ft)
 

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 19 - June 8, 2019) Dispatch 16

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Kevin McGarity
George Bieker

 Climbers: Josh Hoyle
Robert Bradshaw
Jard Bringedal
Joanne Drummond
Andrew Green
Nicola Simpson
Nicola Tannahil
Maleka Taylor
Robert Tyler

Team 2 rests and acclimatizes at High Camp (17,300ft)
 

Monday, June 3, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2019) Dispatch 11

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Calvin Morris
Julie Ann Holder

Climbers:

James Cocco
James Kinkaid
John Brown
Odd Bolin
David Christian
Arve Blitzner
Krisli Melesk

Team 3 takes a rest day at Camp 3 (14,200ft)
 

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 19 - June 8, 2019) Dispatch 15


Guides:

Chad Cochran
Kevin McGarity
George Bieker

Climbers:

Josh Hoyle
Robert Bradshaw
Jard Bringedal
Joanne Drummond
Andrew Green
Nicola Simpson
Nicola Tannahil
Maleka Taylor
Robert Tyler

Team 2 first summit attempt delayed due to weather. Preparing for their next attempt.

Sunday, June 2, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 2 - June 22, 2019) Dispatch 1

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jared Drapala
Katlynne Schaumberg

Climbers:

Tor Brigg-Gjesdal
Frank Wendt
Poobalan Kannan
Richard Capelouto
Jeffrey Capelouto
Corin Kwasnik
Eric Ferguson
Mimmi Snell
Brad Hartman

AAI Team 5 is headed t Kahiltna Base Camp (7,300ft)


2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2019) Dispatch 10

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Calvin Morris
Julie Ann Holder

Climbers:

James Cocco
James Kinkaid
John Brown
Odd Bolin
David Christian
Arve Blitzner
Krisli Melesk

Team 3 caches above the fixed line (16,750ft) and returns to Camp 3 (14,200ft)
 

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 19 - June 8, 2019) Dispatch 14


Guides:

Chad Cochran
Kevin McGarity
George Bieker

Climbers:

Josh Hoyle
Robert Bradshaw
Jard Bringedal
Joanne Drummond
Andrew Green
Nicola Simpson
Nicola Tannahil
Maleka Taylor
Robert Tyler

Team 2 moves to High Camp/Camp 4 (17,300ft)



2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 26 - June 15, 2019) Dispatch 5

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Seth White
Sam Fletcher

Climbers:

Russell Hornsby
Stefan Nel
Jason Schocker
Sarah Turje
Chris Parrot
Graham Parrot


Saturday, June 1, 2019

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 26 - June 15, 2019) Dispatch 4


Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Seth White
Sam Fletcher

Climbers:

Russell Hornsby
Stefan Nel
Jason Schocker
Sarah Turje
Chris Parrot
Graham Parrot

Team 4 caches at Windy Corner (13,500ft)
 

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 19 - June 8, 2019) Dispatch 13

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Kevin McGarity
George Bieker

Climbers:

Josh Hoyle
Robert Bradshaw
Jard Bringedal
Joanne Drummond
Andrew Green
Nicola Simpson
Nicola Tannahil
Maleka Taylor
Robert Tyler

Team 2 has an enjoyable and fun rest day at Camp 3 (14,200ft) while preparing upper mountain strategy.


2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2019) Dispatch 9

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Calvin Morris
Julie Ann Holder

 Climbers:

 James Cocco
James Kinkaid
John Brown
Odd Bolin
David Christian
Arve Blitzner
Krisli Melesk

 Team 3 rests at Camp 3 (14,200ft) and prepares upper mountain strategy.
 

2019 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team "Everesters on Denali" (May 14 - June 3, 2019) Dispatch 16


Guides:

Ian McEleney
Will Nunez

Climbers:

Ajeet Bajaj
Deeya Bajaj
Sangeeta Bahl
Poorna Malavath
  Team returning to Base Camp