Monday, May 31, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021)

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 finally flew off yesterday (May 30th) and enjoyed the night in Talkeetna. 

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2021)

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Sam Fletcher
Kyle Pratt

Climbers:

Stan Schweiger
Jacob Stonelake
Sean Smith
Daniel Boboc
Franz Rassl
Weichen Zhou
Daniel Lewis

Team 4 successfully moves to Camp 3 (14,200ft) yesterday. 

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (May 30 - June 19, 2021) Dispatch 1

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Will Nunez
Mallorie Estenson

Climbers:

Arik Schecter
Bouchra Babinou
Taylor Morrel
Erin Zervas
Michael Zervas
Rodney Schwiebert
Joseph Merlone
Jimmy Fair

AAI Denali Team 5 flies into Kahiltna Basecamp and plans to move to Camp 1 (7,800ft) today. 

Sunday, May 30, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2021) Dispatch 16

Guides:

Ian McEleney
Calvin Morris
George Bieker

Climbers:

Carlos Verastegui
Randall Williams
Rhett Evans
Nathan Frederick
Fayzel Lee
Derek Duncan
Robert Fey
Peter Newton 
Ben Grandstaff

Team 2 hopes for good weahter Sunday - Tuesday with time running out. 


2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2021)

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Sam Fletcher
Kyle Pratt

Climbers:

Stan Schweiger
Jacob Stonelake
Sean Smith
Daniel Boboc
Franz Rassl
Weichen Zhou
Daniel Lewis

From late Saturday night May, 29th. Team 4 rest at Camp 2 (11,200ft) in nasty weather. It should clear tomorrow for the move to Camp 3 (14,200ft). 

Saturday, May 29, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 22

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 still stuck in basecamp as a blob of wet weather sits on the range not allowing the bush planes to fly in. 

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2021) Dispatch 7

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Sam Fletcher
Kyle Pratt

Climbers:

Stan Schweiger
Jacob Stonelake
Sean Smith
Daniel Boboc
Franz Rassl
Weichen Zhou
Daniel Lewis

Team 4 preparing for the move to Camp 3 (14,200ft) either today or tomorrow. 


2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2021) Dispatch 15

Guides:

Ian McEleney
Calvin Morris
George Bieker

Climbers:

Carlos Verastegui
Randall Williams
Rhett Evans
Nathan Frederick
Fayzel Lee
Derek Duncan
Robert Fey
Peter Newton 
Ben Grandstaff

Team 2 remains at Camp 3 (14,200ft) and hopes the forecast for a weather window opens tomorrow morning. 

Friday, May 28, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 21

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 hoping for clear weather today to fly back to Talkeetna. 

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2021) Dispatch 6

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Sam Fletcher
Kyle Pratt

Climbers:

Stan Schweiger
Jacob Stonelake
Sean Smith
Daniel Boboc
Franz Rassl
Weichen Zhou
Daniel Lewis


2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2021) Dispatch 14

Guides:

Ian McEleney
Calvin Morris
George Bieker

Climbers:

Carlos Verastegui
Randall Williams
Rhett Evans
Nathan Frederick
Fayzel Lee
Derek Duncan
Robert Fey
Peter Newton 
Ben Grandstaff

Team 2 taking remains in a holding pattern taking shelter from the snow.

Thursday, May 27, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2021) Dispatch 5

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Sam Fletcher
Kyle Pratt

Climbers:

Stan Schweiger
Jacob Stonelake
Sean Smith
Daniel Boboc
Franz Rassl
Weichen Zhou
Daniel Lewis

Team 4 retrieves cache from 10,000ft and return sot Camp 2 (11,200ft). Tomorrow, the plan is to cache at Windy Corner (13,500ft) weather permitting.

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 20

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 still stuck at Kahiltna Basecamp waiting for clouds to lift and planes to fly in. Hopefully, they are able to return to Talkeetna tomorrow. 

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2021) Dispatch 13

Guides:

Ian McEleney
Calvin Morris
George Bieker

Climbers:

Carlos Verastegui
Randall Williams
Rhett Evans
Nathan Frederick
Fayzel Lee
Derek Duncan
Robert Fey
Peter Newton 
Ben Grandstaff

Team 2 caches above the fixed lines (16,200ft) and monitors the weather forecast for the next week. 

*rough start to the audio due to cloud/satellite interference but improves about halfway through. 

Wednesday, May 26, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2021) Dispatch 4


Guides:

Andy Stephen
Sam Fletcher
Kyle Pratt

Climbers:

Stan Schweiger
Jacob Stonelake
Sean Smith
Daniel Boboc
Franz Rassl
Weichen Zhou
Daniel Lewis

Team 4 moves to Camp 2 (11,200ft)

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 19

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 and several other teams at High Camp began a summit attempt this morning. They were met with extremely high winds and a wind chill of -45f. The conditions have unfortunately caused the team to turn around. The team has begun their descent to Kahiltna Basecamp and will hopefully fly out tomorrow. 

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2021) Dispatch 3

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Sam Fletcher
Kyle Pratt

Climbers:

Stan Schweiger
Jacob Stonelake
Sean Smith
Daniel Boboc
Franz Rassl
Weichen Zhou
Daniel Lewis

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2021) Dispatch 12

Guides:

Ian McEleney
Calvin Morris
George Bieker

Climbers:

Carlos Verastegui
Randall Williams
Rhett Evans
Nathan Frederick
Fayzel Lee
Derek Duncan
Robert Fey
Peter Newton 
Ben Grandstaff

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 18

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1's report from last night. Will likely try for a summit attempt today if winds die down. 


Tuesday, May 25, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2021) Dispatch 11


Guides:

Ian McEleney
Calvin Morris
George Bieker

Climbers:

Carlos Verastegui
Randall Williams
Rhett Evans
Nathan Frederick
Fayzel Lee
Derek Duncan
Robert Fey
Peter Newton 
Ben Grandstaff

Team 2 rests and acclimatizes at Camp 3 (14,200ft) and prepares upper mountain strategy

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2021) Dispatch 2

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Sam Fletcher
Kyle Pratt

Climbers:

Stan Schweiger
Jacob Stonelake
Sean Smith
Daniel Boboc
Franz Rassl
Weichen Zhou
Daniel Lewis

Team 4 moves to Camp 1 (7,800ft)


2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 17

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 moves to High Camp (17,200ft) and will try to summit today or tomorrow weather permitting

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2021) Dispatch 10

Guides:

Ian McEleney
Calvin Morris
George Bieker

Climbers:

Carlos Verastegui
Randall Williams
Rhett Evans
Nathan Frederick
Fayzel Lee
Derek Duncan
Robert Fey
Peter Newton 
Ben Grandstaff

Team 2 retrieves cache and returns to Camp 3 (14,200ft) yesterday


Monday, May 24, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 16


Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 moves to High Camp (17,200ft). They will monitor the weather forecast for a potential summit tomorrow. 

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2021) Dispatch 1

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Sam Fletcher
Kyle Pratt

Climbers:

Stan Schweiger
Jacob Stonelake
Sean Smith
Daniel Boboc
Franz Rassl
Weichen Zhou
Daniel Lewis

Team 4 lands in Basecamp and prepares for the move to Camp 1 (7,800ft) today. 

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2021) Dispatch 9

Guides:

Ian McEleney
Calvin Morris
George Bieker

Climbers:

Carlos Verastegui
Randall Williams
Rhett Evans
Nathan Frederick
Fayzel Lee
Derek Duncan
Robert Fey
Peter Newton 
Ben Grandstaff

Team 2 rolled into Camp 3 (14,200ft) yesterday - May 23rd. After a few days of rough weather, a nice high-pressure system has arrived. 

Sunday, May 23, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2021) Dispatch 1

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Sam Fletcher
Kyle Pratt

Climbers:
Stan Schweiger
Jacob Stonelake
Sean Smith
Daniel Boboc
Franz Rassl
Weichen Zhou
Daniel Lewis

And they are off! AAI Denali Team 4 flew into Kahiltna Basecamp this afternoon!




2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2021) Dispatch 9

Guides:

Ian McEleney
Calvin Morris
George Bieker

Climbers:

Carlos Verastegui
Randall Williams
Rhett Evans
Nathan Frederick
Fayzel Lee
Derek Duncan
Robert Fey
Peter Newton 
Ben Grandstaff

Finally, some good weather for Team 2 as they begin the move to Camp 3 (14,200ft) today. 


2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 15

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 rests at Camp 3 (14,200ft). High winds in the forecast today bring good weather for Monday and Tuesday on the upper mountain. 


Saturday, May 22, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 14

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 rests at Camp 3 (14,200ft) and prepares for weekend move to High Camp. 

Friday, May 21, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2021) Dispatch 8

Guides:

Ian McEleney
Calvin Morris
George Bieker

Climbers:

Carlos Verastegui
Randall Williams
Rhett Evans
Nathan Frederick
Fayzel Lee
Derek Duncan
Robert Fey
Peter Newton 
Ben Grandstaff

Team 2 waits out another weather day at Camp 2 (11,200ft). Clear skies over the weekend should allow for a quick move to Camp 3 (14,200ft)

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 13

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 caches above fixed lines at 16,200ft. 

Thursday, May 20, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2021) Dispatch 7

Guides:

Ian McEleney
Calvin Morris
George Bieker

Climbers:

Carlos Verastegui
Randall Williams
Rhett Evans
Nathan Frederick
Fayzel Lee
Derek Duncan
Robert Fey
Peter Newton 
Ben Grandstaff

From AAI guide Calvin Morris: 

Rough weather hits Camp 2 (11,200ft). Team has their cache in at 13,500ft which puts them in a good spot and they will wait out the weather before moving to Camp 3 (14,200ft). 

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 12

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 rests at Camp 3 (14,200ft).  Will attempt to put in cache above fixed lines at 16,200ft today. 

Wednesday, May 19, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2021) Dispatch 6

Guides:

Ian McEleney
Calvin Morris
George Bieker

Climbers:

Carlos Verastegui
Randall Williams
Rhett Evans
Nathan Frederick
Fayzel Lee
Derek Duncan
Robert Fey
Peter Newton 
Ben Grandstaff

From AAI guide Calvin Morris: 

Team 2 caches at Windy Corner (13,500ft). The day was colder and Windy Corner lived up to its name! This gave our team the opportunity to try out layering systems for the upper mountain. We made it back quickly and had a meal of pesto pasta. The weather looks rough for the next two days so we'll rest and prepare to move to Camp 3 (14,200ft) after it clears. 

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 11

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 rests at Camp 3 (14,200ft) while preparing for a big enough weather window to move to Camp 4 (17,200ft) and try to summit in the coming days. 


Tuesday, May 18, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2021) Dispatch 5

Guides:

Ian McEleney
Calvin Morris
George Bieker

Climbers:

Carlos Verastegui
Randall Williams
Rhett Evans
Nathan Frederick
Fayzel Lee
Derek Duncan
Robert Fey
Peter Newton 
Ben Grandstaff

Team 2 takes a rest day at Camp 2 (11,200ft)

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 10

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 rests at Camp 3 (14,200ft)

Monday, May 17, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2021) Dispatch 4


Guides:

Ian McEleney
Calvin Morris
George Bieker

Climbers:

Carlos Verastegui
Randall Williams
Rhett Evans
Nathan Frederick
Fayzel Lee
Derek Duncan
Robert Fey
Peter Newton 
Ben Grandstaff

Team 2 retrieves cache from 10,000ft

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 9

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 moves to Camp 3 (14,200ft)

Sunday, May 16, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2021) Dispatch 3

Guides:

Ian McEleney
Calvin Morris
George Bieker

Climbers:

Carlos Verastegui
Randall Williams
Rhett Evans
Nathan Frederick
Fayzel Lee
Derek Duncan
Robert Fey
Peter Newton 
Ben Grandstaff

Team 2 moves to Camp 2 (11,200ft)

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 8

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 caches at Windy Corner (13,500ft)


Saturday, May 15, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2021) Dispatch 2

Guides:

Ian McEleney
Calvin Morris
George Bieker

Climbers:

Carlos Verastegui
Randall Williams
Rhett Evans
Nathan Frederick
Fayzel Lee
Derek Duncan
Robert Fey
Peter Newton 
Ben Grandstaff

Team 2 caches at 10,000ft



2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 7

Guides:
Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 retrives cache from 9,650ft and return to Camp 2 (11, 200ft). 


Friday, May 14, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2021) Dispatch 1

Guides:

Ian McEleney
Calvin Morris
George Bieker

Climbers:

Carlos Verastegui
Randall Williams
Rhett Evans
Nathan Frederick
Fayzel Lee
Derek Duncan
Robert Fey
Peter Newton 
Ben Grandstaff

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 6

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 reaches Camp 2 (11,200ft)!


Thursday, May 13, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2021) Flight Dispatch

Guides:

Ian McEleney
Calvin Morris
George Bieker

Climbers:

Carlos Verastegui
Randall Williams
Rhett Evans
Nathan Frederick
Fayzel Lee
Derek Duncan
Robert Fey
Peter Newton 
Ben Grandstaff


Team 2 is in the air headed to Kahitlna BC!




2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 5

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 successfully cached at 10,000ft yesterday, while celebrating lead guide Tad McCrea's 36th birthday! Today, they make the move to Camp 2 (11,200ft). 


Wednesday, May 12, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 4 - audio

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Audio file from last night's move to Camp 1 (7,800ft). Team plans to cache today at 10,000ft and then move to Camp 2 (11,200ft) tomorrow. 

Tuesday, May 11, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 4

Guides:
Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:
Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 makes the 5.5 mile move to Camp 1 (7,800ft) beneath Ski Hill. Due to the weather, they are a little behind schedule and plan on making their cache at 10,000ft tomorrow to get back on track. 

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 3

Guides:
Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:
Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

AAI guide Gloria Roe calling in fro Kahiltna Basecamp about the day!


Monday, May 10, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 2

 Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 is flying into Kahiltna Basecamp! Photo from Tad McCrea from the K2 Aviation plane. The team will quickly sort food and equipment and strike out for Camp 1 (7,800ft). 






Sunday, May 9, 2021

2021 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 9 - May 29, 2021) Dispatch 1

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Will Gordon
Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Erin Fairfield
Angela Szabo
McKinley Lenker
Jessica Webb
Pete Campbell
Danny Myung

Team 1 holds fast as cloudy weather stalls flight into basecamp. The group developed some skills in the aviation hangar, packed gear, and became familiar with their tents. The team will stay the night in Talkeetna and hopefully be able to fly in tomorrow and move to Camp 1 (7,800ft).