Friday, May 17, 2024

2024 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2) Dispatch 5

Guides:



Ian McEleney


Kevin McGarity 


Tali Levin



Climbers:



Mehdi N'Ciri


Greg Caldwell


Patrick Caroll


Tariq Rashid


Edward Ryan


Kanchan Sharma 


Peter Watson 


Matthew Muir


Roman Romanici



Team 2 was able to retrieve their cache today and are back at Camp 2 (11,000'). They are planning on taking a well deserved rest day tomorrow.


2024 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - May 26) Dispatch 12

Guides:


Andy Stephen


Adam Gellman


Mike Morris



Climbers:



Trevor Kinahan


Doug Murphy


Fabian Hugelshofer 


Pernille Skorstengaard 


Michael Quinsee


Keelan Carnal


Jack Parks


Team 1 is enjoying their time at 14 Camp. They spent some time practicing skills on the fixed ropes and are planning to place a cache at 16,000' tomorrow. 

2024 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2) Dispatch 4

Guides:


Ian McEleney


Kevin McGarity 


Tali Levin



Climbers:



Mehdi N'Ciri


Greg Caldwell


Patrick Caroll


Tariq Rashid


Edward Ryan


Kanchan Sharma 


Peter Watson 


Matthew Muir


Roman Romanici



Team 2 safely made it to Camp 2 (11,000') on today. They hope to retrieve their cache tomorrow if weather allows.


Thursday, May 16, 2024

2024 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - May 26) Dispatch 11

Guides:


Andy Stephen


Adam Gellman


Mike Morris



Climbers:



Trevor Kinahan


Doug Murphy


Fabian Hugelshofer 


Pernille Skorstengaard 


Michael Quinsee


Keelan Carnal


Jack Parks



Team 1 was able to retrieve their cache and are now settled fully into Camp 3 (14,200').


2024 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - May 26) Dispatch 10

Guides:


Andy Stephen


Adam Gellman


Mike Morris



Climbers:



Trevor Kinahan


Doug Murphy


Fabian Hugelshofer 


Pernille Skorstengaard 


Michael Quinsee


Keelan Carnal


Jack Parks



Team 1 made it to 14 Camp (Camp 3, 14,200') today! The day started with some challenging weather, but turned for the better as they arrived at camp. Some stormy weather then showed up, but they're hoping it will clear enough to retrieve their cache by the end of the day.


Wednesday, May 15, 2024

2024 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2) Dispatch 3

Guides:


Ian McEleney


Kevin McGarity 


Tali Levin



Climbers:



Mehdi N'Ciri


Greg Caldwell


Patrick Caroll


Tariq Rashid


Edward Ryan


Kanchan Sharma 


Peter Watson 


Matthew Muir


Roman Romanici



Team 2 placed their cache above Ski Hill today. They hope to make a big move to Camp 2 (11,000') tomorrow.


Tuesday, May 14, 2024

2024 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2) Dispatch 2

Guides:



Ian McEleney


Kevin McGarity 


Tali Levin



Climbers:



Mehdi N'Ciri


Greg Caldwell


Patrick Caroll


Tariq Rashid


Edward Ryan


Kanchan Sharma 


Peter Watson 


Matthew Muir


Roman Romanici



Team 2 made it to Camp 1 (7800’ / 2400m) today with beautiful weather. They had heavy loads to carry but enjoyed a well deserved dinner of salmon burgers. Tomorrow they hope to place a cache above camp in preparation for the move to Camp 2.

2024 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - May 26) Dispatch 9

Guides:


Andy Stephen


Adam Gellman


Mike Morris



Climbers:



Trevor Kinahan


Doug Murphy


Fabian Hugelshofer 


Pernille Skorstengaard 


Michael Quinsee


Keelan Carnal


Jack Parks



Team 1 enjoyed a "beach day" today. Weather was not too agreeable at higher altitudes, but was splendid at Camp 2 where Team 1 is camped. If weather is good tomorrow, they will make the move to 14 Camp (14,200').


Monday, May 13, 2024

2024 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - May 26) Dispatch 8

Guides:


Andy Stephen


Adam Gellman


Mike Morris



Climbers:



Trevor Kinahan


Doug Murphy


Fabian Hugelshofer 


Pernille Skorstengaard 


Michael Quinsee


Keelan Carnal


Jack Parks



Team 2 woke up to amazing weather today and they placed their cache above Camp 2. They were able to make it back to camp for burritos before some stormy weather picked up.

2024 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2) Dispatch 1

Guides:


Ian McEleney


Kevin McGarity 


Tali Levin



Climbers:



Mehdi N'Ciri


Greg Caldwell


Patrick Caroll


Tariq Rashid


Edward Ryan


Kanchan Sharma 


Peter Watson 


Matthew Muir


Roman Romanici



Team 2 successfully flew onto the Kahiltna Glacier today and are currently sitting at Basecamp (7,200' / 2,200 m)! Tomorrow they plan to make the move to Camp 1 (7,800’ / 2,400 m).


Sunday, May 12, 2024

2024 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - May 26) Dispatch 7

Guides:


Andy Stephen


Adam Gellman


Mike Morris



Climbers:



Trevor Kinahan


Doug Murphy


Fabian Hugelshofer 


Pernille Skorstengaard 


Michael Quinsee


Keelan Carnal


Jack Parks



Team 1 made it safely to Camp 2 at 11,000'! They took advantage of their hard work yesterday and made quick work of the move.


A very special Happy Mother's Day from all of us at AAI to all Moms and Mothers out there!


Saturday, May 11, 2024

2024 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - May 26) Dispatch 6

Guides:


Andy Stephen


Adam Gellman


Mike Morris



Climbers:



Trevor Kinahan


Doug Murphy


Fabian Hugelshofer 


Pernille Skorstengaard 


Michael Quinsee


Keelan Carnal


Jack Parks



Team 1 spent today at "Camp 1.5" (10,000') as they were snowed on all day long. Most of the team enjoyed some rest as guides Andy and Mike pushed higher to prepare for a move to Camp 2 tomorrow.


Friday, May 10, 2024

2024 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - May 26) Dispatch 5

Guides:


Andy Stephen


Adam Gellman


Mike Morris



Climbers:



Trevor Kinahan


Doug Murphy


Fabian Hugelshofer 


Pernille Skorstengaard 


Michael Quinsee


Keelan Carnal


Jack Parks



Team 1 encountered some weather while attempting to move to Camp 2 today. They decided to set up camp at 10,000' and take shelter but spirits are high!


2024 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - May 26) Dispatch 4

Guides:



Andy Stephen


Adam Gellman


Mike Morris



Climbers:



Trevor Kinahan


Doug Murphy


Fabian Hugelshofer 


Pernille Skorstengaard 


Michael Quinsee


Keelan Carnal


Jack Parks



Team 1 was able to put in their cache yesterday amidst some whiteout conditions. They woke up to fresh snow on the ground and are gearing up to break trail as they move camps today.


Thursday, May 9, 2024

2024 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - May 26) Dispatch 3

Guides:


Andy Stephen


Adam Gellman


Mike Morris



Climbers:



Trevor Kinahan


Doug Murphy


Fabian Hugelshofer


Pernille Skorstengaard


Michael Quinsee


Keelan Carnal


Jack Parks



Team 1 made it to Camp 1 (7800’ / 2400m) today and enjoyed some amazing conditions. They settled in to camp with the hopes of placing a cache higher up the mountain.


Wednesday, May 8, 2024

2024 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - May 26) Dispatch 2

Guides:


Andy Stephen


Adam Gellman


Mike Morris



Climbers:



Trevor Kinahan


Doug Murphy


Fabian Hugelshofer (K&P)


Pernille Skorstengaard (JG)


Michael Quinsee


Keelan Carnal


Jack Parks



Team 1 called in early this morning to let us know they woke up to blue bird weather. They plan to move to Camp 1 (7800’ / 2400 m) today.


Tuesday, May 7, 2024

2024 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - May 26) Dispatch 1

Guides:



Andy Stephen


Adam Gellman


Mike Morris



Climbers:



Trevor Kinahan


Doug Murphy


Fabian Hugelshofer


Pernille Skorstengaard


Michael Quinsee


Keelan Carnal


Jack Parks



On Monday, Team 1 couldn't fly out like they had originally planned due to some less-than-ideal weather. After hanging out in Talkeetna for an extra day, an afternoon weather window today opened up and they successfully flew onto the Kahiltna Glacier. As they settle into Basecamp (7,200'), we wish them a safe climb and the best of luck!