Tuesday, May 31, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 15 - June 4, 2022) Dispatch 16

Guides:


Andy Stephen

Kevin McGarity

Gloria Roe


Climbers:


Alex Beresford

Tom Cleary

Dave Chant

Bryan Clarke

Keith Mallon

Craig O'Leary

Johnny Ward


Team 2 descends to Camp 3 (14,200ft). They will continue their descent today and hopefully make it to the airstrip and fly out in the next couple of days. 


2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Dispatch 2

Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin


Climbers:


Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacob Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 carries to Camp 1 (7,800ft)



2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2022) Dispatch 9

Guides:


Tad McCrea

Justin Votos

Tracy Lenard


Climbers:


Rajesh Nair

Richard Caton

Arne Vatnhamar

Matt May

Jim Heath

Alvin Loi

Jonathan Deffenbaugh

Shane Rowe


Team 3 rests at Camp 3 (14,200ft) and trains for the fixed lines. They also enjoyed a rendezvous with Team 2 on their descent. 

Monday, May 30, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2022) Dispatch 8

Guides:


Tad McCrea

Justin Votos

Tracy Lenard


Climbers:


Rajesh Nair

Richard Caton

Arne Vatnhamar

Matt May

Jim Heath

Alvin Loi

Jonathan Deffenbaugh

Shane Rowe


Team 3 takes rest day at Camp 3 (14,200ft)


2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Dispatch 1

Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin


Climbers:

Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacon Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 arrives in Basecamp and will strike out for Camp 1 this morning. 




2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 15 - June 4, 2022) Summit Dispatch

Guides:


Andy Stephen

Kevin McGarity

Gloria Roe


Climbers:


Alex Beresford

Tom Cleary

Dave Chant

Bryan Clarke

Keith Mallon

Craig O'Leary

Johnny Ward


Team 2 successfully summits (20,310ft). 



Sunday, May 29, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 15 - June 4, 2022) Dispatch 15

Guides:


Andy Stephen

Kevin McGarity

Gloria Roe


Climbers:


Alex Beresford

Tom Cleary

Dave Chant

Bryan Clarke

Keith Mallon

Craig O'Leary

Johnny Ward


Team 2 rests at High Camp (17,200ft) and hopes for a summit opportunity today!


2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2022) Dispatch 7

Guides:


Tad McCrea

Justin Votos

Tracy Lenard


Climbers:


Rajesh Nair

Richard Caton

Arne Vatnhamar

Matt May

Jim Heath

Alvin Loi

Jonathan Deffenbaugh

Shane Rowe


Team 3 moves to Camp 3 (14,200ft). The crew rolled into camp around 10pm last night in great conditions though a little windy in spots. They'll retrieve their cache from Windy Corner today and begin their upper mountain strategy. 

Saturday, May 28, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2022) Dispatch 6

Guides:


Tad McCrea

Justin Votos

Tracy Lenard


Climbers:


Rajesh Nair

Richard Caton

Arne Vatnhamar

Matt May

Jim Heath

Alvin Loi

Jonathan Deffenbaugh

Shane Rowe


Team caches above Windy Corner and returns to Camp 2. The team plans to move to Camp 3 (14,200ft) today. 

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 15 - June 4, 2022) Dispatch 14

Guides:


Andy Stephen

Kevin McGarity

Gloria Roe


Climbers:


Alex Beresford

Tom Cleary

Dave Chant

Bryan Clarke

Keith Mallon

Craig O'Leary

Johnny Ward


Team 2 moves to High Camp (17,200ft)! Hopes to summit over the next two days. 



Friday, May 27, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 15 - June 4, 2022) Dispatch 13

Guides:


Andy Stephen

Kevin McGarity

Gloria Roe


Climbers:


Alex Beresford

Tom Cleary

Dave Chant

Bryan Clarke

Keith Mallon

Craig O'Leary

Johnny Ward

Team 2 takes one more rest day before moving to High Camp (17,200ft) today.

Thursday, May 26, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2022) Dispatch 5

Guides:

Tad McCrea

Justin Votos

Tracy Lenard


Climbers:

Rajesh Nair

Richard Caton

Arne Vatnhamar

Matt May

Jim Heath

Alvin Loi

Jonathan Deffenbaugh

Shane Rowe


Team 3 makes a successful move to Camp 2 (11,200ft). The team will attempt to cache above Windy Corner at 13,500ft tomorrow, weather depending. Guides and climbers are exicted to be off the night travel schedule. 

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2022) Dispatch 4

Guides:

Tad McCrea

Justin Votos

Tracy Lenard


Climbers:

Rajesh Nair

Richard Caton

Arne Vatnhamar

Matt May

Jim Heath

Alvin Loi

Jonathan Deffenbaugh

Shane Rowe


Team 3 takes a weather day as high winds and clouds on the lower glacier significantly decrease visibility. The Team is traveling on a night schedule (in colder temperatures) on the lower mountain to decrease crevasse danger. They hope to move to Camp 2 (11,200ft) today. 

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022) Final Dispatch

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson

Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls


Team 1 returns to Talkeetna and concludes a successful expedition. 

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 15 - June 4, 2022) Dispatch 12

Guides:

Andy Stephen

Kevin McGarity

Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Alex Beresford

Tom Cleary

Dave Chant

Bryan Clarke

Keith Mallon

Craig O'Leary

Johnny Ward


Team 2 remains at 14,200ft waiting out the extremely cold temperatures and high winds on the upper mountain. 

Wednesday, May 25, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 15 - June 4, 2022) Dispatch 11

Guides:


Andy Stephen

Kevin McGarity

Gloria Roe


Climbers:


Alex Beresford

Tom Cleary

Dave Chant

Bryan Clarke

Keith Mallon

Craig O'Leary

Johnny Ward


Team 2 practices for the fixed lines and enjoys some sport eating at Camp 3 (14,200ft) while preparing for a weather window. 


2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022)

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson


Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls


Team 1 returns to Kahiltna BC and hopes to fly out today!

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2022) Dispatch 3

Guides:

Tad McCrea

Justin Votos

Tracy Lenard


Climbers:

Rajesh Nair

Richard Caton

Arne Vatnhamar

Matt May

Jim Heath

Alvin Loi

Jonathan Deffenbaugh

Shane Rowe


Team 3 caches at 10,00ft and returns to Camp 1 (7,800ft)

Tuesday, May 24, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022)

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson


Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls


Team 1 continues to make its way down the mountain back to Kahiltna BaseCamp (7,200ft). Once they arrive, they will get in the flight queue and be back in civilization.  

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 15 - June 4, 2022) Dispatch 10

Guides:

Andy Stephen

Kevin McGarity

Gloria Roe


Climbers:

Alex Beresford

Tom Cleary

Dave Chant

Bryan Clarke

Keith Mallon

Craig O'Leary

Johnny Ward


Team 2 takes a rest day at Camp 3 (14,200ft)


2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2022) Dispatch 2

Guides:

Tad McCrea

Justin Votos

Tracy Lenard


Climbers:

Rajesh Nair

Richard Caton

Arne Vatnhamar

Matt May

Jim Heath

Alvin Loi

Jonathan Deffenbaugh

Shane Rowe


Team 3 moves to Camp 1 (7,800ft)

Monday, May 23, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2022)

Guides:


Tad McCrea

Justin Votos

Tracy Lenard


Climbers:


Rajesh Nair

Richard Caton

Arne Vatnhamar

Matt May

Jim Heath

Alvin Loi

Jonathan Deffenbaugh

Shane Rowe


Team 3 will move to Camp 1 (7,800ft) today. 


2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 15 - June 4, 2022) Dispatch 9

Guides:

Andy Stephen

Kevin McGarity

Gloria Roe


Climbers:

Alex Beresford

Tom Cleary

Dave Chant

Bryan Clarke

Keith Mallon

Craig O'Leary

Johnny Ward


Team 2 retrieve cache from 13,500ft and returns to Camp 3 (14,200ft). The group will now rest acclimatize and put together their upper mountain strategy. 



2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022) Summit Dispatch

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson


Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls


Happy to report that Team 1 successfully summited. They will make their way down to Camp 3 (14,200ft) tomorrow. 

Sunday, May 22, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2022) In the Air!

Guides:

Tad McCrea

Justin Votos

Tracy Lenard


Climbers:

Rajesh Nair

Richard Caton

Arne Vatnhamar

Matt May

Jim Heath

Alvin Loi

Jonathan Deffenbaugh

Shane Rowe


Team 3 is in the air and headed to Kahiltna Basecamp (7,800ft)!








2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2022)

Guides:

Tad McCrea

Justin Votos

Tracy Lenard

Climbers:

Rajesh Nair

Richard Caton

Arne Vatnhamar

Matt May

Jim Heath

Alvin Loi

Jonathan Deffenbaugh

Shane Rowe


Team 3 getting ready to fly into Kahiltna Basecamp (7,200ft). Here is a hype video (filmed and narrated by Tad McCrea). 




2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 15 - June 4, 2022) Dispatch 8

Guides:

Andy Stephen

Kevin McGarity

Gloria Roe


Climbers:

Alex Beresford

Tom Cleary

Dave Chant

Bryan Clarke

Keith Mallon

Craig O'Leary

Johnny Ward


Team 2 moves to Camp 3 (14,200ft). Long day but excellent condition made the move smooth. 

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022) Dispatch 13

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson


Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls


Team 1 moves to High Camp (17,200ft)! Hoping to summit today or tomorrow weather depending. 

Saturday, May 21, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022) Dispatch 13

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson

Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls


Team 1 successfully places their cache at 16,200ft above the fixed lines. Everything is in place, now they just need a weather window to move to High Camp (17,300ft)

Friday, May 20, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 15 - June 4, 2022) Dispatch 7

Guides:

Andy Stephen

Kevin McGarity

Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Alex Beresford

Tom Cleary

Dave Chant

Bryan Clarke

Keith Mallon

Craig O'Leary

Johnny Ward

Team 2 puts in their cache at 13,500ft and hopes to move to Camp 3 (14,200ft) today

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022) Dispatch 12

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson

Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls


Team 1 takes a well-deserved rest day and installs their upper mountain strategy. The team prepares for the fixed lines, packs their high camp bags, and look at the weather for the next couple of days. 

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 15 - June 4, 2022) Dispatch 6

Guides:

Andy Stephen

Kevin McGarity

Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Alex Beresford

Tom Cleary

Dave Chant

Bryan Clarke

Keith Mallon

Craig O'Leary

Johnny Ward


Team 2 retrieves cache from (10,000ft). Planning a cache day to 13,500ft above Windy Corner. 

Thursday, May 19, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022) Dispatch 11

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson

Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls


Team 1 retrives cache from 13,500ft and returns to Camp 3 (14,200ft)


Wednesday, May 18, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 15 - June 4, 2022) Dispatch 5

Guides:

Andy Stephen

Kevin McGarity

Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Alex Beresford

Tom Cleary

Dave Chant

Bryan Clarke

Keith Mallon

Craig O'Leary

Johnny Ward


Team 2 moves to Camp 2 (11,200ft). Will retrieve cache from 10,000ft tomorrow and return to Camp 2.

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022) Dispatch 10

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson

Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls


Voice dispatch from late last night. Team 1 successfully moves to Camp 3 (14,200ft).


Tuesday, May 17, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 15 - June 4, 2022) Dispatch 3

Guides:

Andy Stephen

Kevin McGarity

Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Alex Beresford

Tom Cleary

Dave Chant

Bryan Clarke

Keith Mallon

Craig O'Leary

Johnny Ward


Team 2 places their cache at 10,000ft and returns to Camp 1 (7,800ft). The team plans to move to Camp 2 (11,200ft) tomorrow. 

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022) Voice Dispatch

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson

Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls


Voice dispatch from late last night. Team 1 hopes to move to Camp 3 (14,200ft) today. 

Monday, May 16, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 15 - June 4, 2022) Voice Dispatch

Guides:

Andy Stephen

Kevin McGarity

Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Alex Beresford

Tom Cleary

Dave Chant

Bryan Clarke

Keith Mallon

Craig O'Leary

Johnny Ward


Team 2 reaches Camp 1 (7,800ft). Will cache tomorrow at 10,000ft. 

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022) Dispatch 9

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson

Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls


Team 1 takes a weather day and avoids chilling high winds above Windy Corner (13,500ft). They will continue to assess weather for the week and move to Camp 3 (14,200ft) when it allows. 

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 15 - June 4, 2022) Dispatch 2

Guides:

Andy Stephen

Kevin McGarity

Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Alex Beresford

Tom Cleary

Dave Chant

Bryan Clarke

Keith Mallon

Craig O'Leary

Johnny Ward

Team 2 is striking out for Camp 1 (7,800ft) today. A long 5.5 mile walk on the glacier with heavy packs and sleds. 




Sunday, May 15, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022) Dispatch 8

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson

Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls


Team 1 successfully places cache at 13,500ft above Windy Corner. The plan is for the team to move to Camp 3 (14,200ft) on Monday or Tuesday depending on weather conditions. 

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 2 (May 15 - June 4, 2022) Dispatch 1

Guides:

Andy Stephen

Kevin McGarity

Gloria Roe

Climbers:

Alex Beresford

Tom Cleary

Dave Chant

Bryan Clarke

Keith Mallon

Craig O'Leary

Johnny Ward

Team 2 is flying into Kahiltna Basecamp (7,200ft)! The team will likely stay the night in BC and then depart early tomorrow morning for Camp 1 (7,800ft). 




2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022) Dispatch 8

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson

Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls

Team 1 successfully retrieves cache from 10,000ft and returns Camp 2 (11,200ft). They will try to put their cache in at 13,500ft above Windy Corner today.

Saturday, May 14, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022) Dispatch 7

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson

Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls


Team 1 successfully moves and reaches Camp 2 (11,200ft). They will retrieve their cache from 10,000ft today and then begin strategizing their move to Camp 3 (14,200ft)

Friday, May 13, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022) Dispatch 6

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson

Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls


Team 1 forced to take a weather day. Planning to move to Camp 2 (11,200ft) today. 

Thursday, May 12, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022) Dispatch 5

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson

Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls


Team 1 puts in their cache at 10,000ft below Camp 2 (11,200ft).


Wednesday, May 11, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022) Dispatch 4

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson

Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls

Team 1 holds fast at Camp 1 (7,800ft) after strong gusty winds make traveling to Kahiltna Pass not practical. The team hopes to cache today (May 11th) so they can move to Camp 2 (11,200ft). 


Tuesday, May 10, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022) Dispatch 3

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson

Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls


Team 1 successfully moves to Camp 1 (7,800ft). They prepare to cache at 10,000ft today. 

Monday, May 9, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022) Dispatch 2

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson


Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls

Team 1 prepares for the move to Camp 1 (7,800ft) this morning. 

Sunday, May 8, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 1 (May 8 - May 28, 2022) Dispatch 1

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Calvin Morris

Mallorie Estenson

Climbers:

Akbar Khan

Kunnar Karu

Mateusz Skora

Todd Shogan

David Mortenson

Chris Draper

Jayson Funnell

Adrian Nicholls


Team 1 is flying into Kahiltna Basecamp! The team will quickly sort food and equipment and strike out for Camp 1 (7,800ft) weather and conditions depending.