Wednesday, May 31, 2023

2023 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 20 - June 9) Dispatch 10

Guides:


Ian McEleney

Justin Votos

Lauren Smith


Climbers:


Chuck Schneider

Tony Yan

Jacob wheeler

Bradley Watts

Mary-Claire Rijsman

Roland Thomas

Erin Parisi

Team 2 had a lovely "and chilly" breakfast of cereal and coffee this morning still at 14 Camp. They made it to below High Camp (17,200') and are awaiting good weather for a big push in the coming days. They plan on taking a rest day tomorrow.


2023 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 28 - June 17) Dispatch 4

Guides:


Gloria Roe

Kyle Pratt

Ross Erickson


Climbers:


Justin Einstein

Andrew Packo

Erik Christiansen

Jago Trasler

Cailyn Guo

Juergen Jankovits

Balasz Szili

Micky Campbell


After braving all of the elements of the mountain, Team 3 successfully made it to Camp 2 (11,000') today! They plan to retrieve their cache tomorrow.



Tuesday, May 30, 2023

2023 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 28 - June 17) Dispatch 3

Guides:


Gloria Roe

Kyle Pratt

Ross Erickson


Climbers:


Justin Einstein

Andrew Packo

Erik Christiansen

Jago Trasler

Cailyn Guo

Juergen Jankovits

Balasz Szili

Micky Campbell


Team 3 placed a cache below Camp 2 today at about 10,000'. Tonight, they are enjoying hummus, rice, and meatballs and anticipating some good days ahead.



Monday, May 29, 2023

2023 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 20 - June 9) Dispatch 9

Guides:


Ian McEleney

Justin Votos

Lauren Smith


Climbers:


Chuck Schneider

Tony Yan

Jacob wheeler

Bradley Watts

Mary-Claire Rijsman

Roland Thomas

Erin Parisi


Team 2 is currently camped at Camp 3 (14,200') after dropping a cache above 16,000'. They are currently enjoying hot drinks and plan on taking a well deserved rest day tomorrow.



2023 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 28 - June 17) Dispatch 2

Guides:


Gloria Roe

Kyle Pratt

Ross Erickson


Climbers:


Justin Einstein

Andrew Packo

Erik Christiansen

Jago Trasler

Cailyn Guo

Juergen Jankovits

Balasz Szili

Micky Campbell


Team 3 made it to Camp 1 (7800') today! On the menu tonight; black bean burgers. They plan to drop a cache at 10,500' tomorrow before preparing to move to Camp 2.


2023 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 20 - June 9) Dispatch 8

Guides:


Ian McEleney

Justin Votos

Lauren Smith


Climbers:


Chuck Schneider

Tony Yan

Jacob wheeler

Bradley Watts

Mary-Claire Rijsman

Roland Thomas

Erin Parisi


Team 2 moved to Camp 3 (14,200') yesterday! They moved through Windy Corner which was not too windy, and arrived at camp later in the day. This dispatch came in this morning, and they plan to drop a cache above Camp 3.



Sunday, May 28, 2023

2023 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 28 - June 17) Dispatch 1

Guides:


Gloria Roe

Kyle Pratt

Ross Erickson


Climbers:


Justin Einstein

Andrew Packo

Erik Christiansen

Jago Trasler

Cailyn Guo

Juergen Jankovits

Balasz Szili

Micky Campbell


Team 3 made it to Basecamp (7,200') today! They flew on to the glacier after some uncertain weather finally opened up. Tomorrow, they plan to move to Camp 1.



Saturday, May 27, 2023

2023 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 20 - June 9) Dispatch 7

Guides:


Ian McEleney

Justin Votos

Lauren Smith


Climbers:


Chuck Schneider

Tony Yan

Jacob wheeler

Bradley Watts

Mary-Claire Rijsman

Roland Thomas

Erin Parisi

Team 2 put in a cache around Windy Corner at about 13,500'. They enjoyed some clear skies and beautiful views before returning back to Camp 2 (11,000'). They plan to move to Camp 3 (14 Camp) tomorrow.



Friday, May 26, 2023

2023 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 20 - June 9) Dispatch 6

 Guides:


Ian McEleney

Justin Votos

Lauren Smith


Climbers:


Chuck Schneider

Tony Yan

Jacob wheeler

Bradley Watts

Mary-Claire Rijsman

Roland Thomas

Erin Parisi



Thursday, May 25, 2023

2023 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 12 - June 1) Dispatch 14

 Guides:


George Bieker

Kevin McGarity

Ian Peterson


Climbers:


Robert Mauro

Graeme Reddiex

Steve Nightingale

Zach Lowry

Christopher Jennings

David Wilson

Sam Smith


Weather made it difficult to send a voice dispatch today, so the following is a text that was received from Team 1: We had a weather day at 14, winds were very high on the upper mountain but everyone is safe and sound. Kevin cooked us a lovely Mac and cheese supreme for din. And yours truly (George) provided us with all oatmeal breakfast. Lots of camp maintenance was done like resurfacing the cook tent, bathroom and group gear areas.


2023 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 20 - June 9) Dispatch 5

Guides:


Ian McEleney

Justin Votos

Lauren Smith


Climbers:


Chuck Schneider

Tony Yan

Jacob wheeler

Bradley Watts

Mary-Claire Rijsman

Roland Thomas

Erin Parisi

Team 2 moved to Camp 2 (11,200') today! The weather started to turn windy towards Kahiltna Pass; possibly a reason the dispatch is broken up towards the end.


Wednesday, May 24, 2023

2023 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 20 - June 9) Dispatch 4

Guides:


Ian McEleney

Justin Votos

Lauren Smith


Climbers:


Chuck Schneider

Tony Yan

Jacob wheeler

Bradley Watts

Mary-Claire Rijsman

Roland Thomas

Erin Parisi


Team 2 hung out at Camp 1 today. They enjoyed some pancakes for breakfast and some good weather the rest of the day.




2023 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 12 - June 1) Dispatch 13

Guides:


George Bieker

Kevin McGarity

Ian Peterson


Climbers:


Robert Mauro

Graeme Reddiex

Steve Nightingale

Zach Lowry

Christopher Jennings

David Wilson

Sam Smith


We didn't get too much out of this dispatch before the call dropped. But Team 1 is still at Camp 3 (14 Camp at 14,200'). They woke up to some sun and then mixed weather throughout the day.



2023 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 20 - June 9) Dispatch 3

Guides:


Ian McEleney

Justin Votos

Lauren Smith


Climbers:


Chuck Schneider

Tony Yan

Jacob wheeler

Bradley Watts

Mary-Claire Rijsman

Roland Thomas

Erin Parisi


Today Team 2 placed a cache at 10,400', complimented by some stunning views, before returning to Camp 1. Happy Birthday to our Guide, Lauren!



Tuesday, May 23, 2023

2023 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 12 - June 1) Dispatch 12

 Guides:


George Bieker

Kevin McGarity

Ian Peterson


Climbers:


Robert Mauro

Graeme Reddiex

Steve Nightingale

Zach Lowry

Christopher Jennings

David Wilson

Sam Smith


Team 1 brought a cache to 16,000' ridge today, and scored some incredible views. Tomorrow they are taking a well deserved rest day.



Monday, May 22, 2023

2023 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 12 - June 1) Dispatch 11.1 (Bonus)

Guides:


George Bieker

Kevin McGarity

Ian Peterson


Climbers:


Robert Mauro

Graeme Reddiex

Steve Nightingale

Zach Lowry

Christopher Jennings

David Wilson

Sam Smith


This dispatch came in after the first because the call kept on dropping. Listen in for some shoutouts and some quick updates (this one might take a couple plays).




2023 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 20 - June 9) Dispatch 2

 Guides:


Ian McEleney

Justin Votos

Lauren Smith


Climbers:


Chuck Schneider

Tony Yan

Jacob wheeler

Bradley Watts

Mary-Claire Rijsman

Roland Thomas

Erin Parisi


Team 2 successfully made it to Camp 1 today at 7,800'! They plan to leave a cache higher up on the mountain and return to Camp 1 tomorrow.


2023 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 12 - June 1) Dispatch 11

Guides:


George Bieker

Kevin McGarity

Ian Peterson


Climbers:


Robert Mauro

Graeme Reddiex

Steve Nightingale

Zach Lowry

Christopher Jennings

David Wilson

Sam Smith


Team 1 spent the day preparing for the upper mountain. The dispatch gets garbled at about 1:10 but they appreciate you sending in the trivia, and feel free to send the answers when you can.