Thursday, June 21, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 3 - June 23) Final Dispatch


Guides:

Andy Stephen
Calvin Morris
Seth White

Climbers:

Peter Fowler
Steve Maliszeski
Andrew Prunty
Tim Wright
Erik Beever
Vaughan Busby
Vincent Larivierre
Maria Conceicao
Bjarne Henningsen

Team 6 flew off the mountain last night and celebrated at a local brewery. It's always a difficult decision to turn back without having achieved the summit. Denali did everything it could to keep us from the top and we, unfortunately, ran out of time. Even the strongest teams are at the mercy of the weather. Thanks for following along - Andy

Wednesday, June 20, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 3 - June 23)

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Calvin Morris
Seth White

Climbers:

Peter Fowler
Steve Maliszeski
Andrew Prunty
Tim Wright
Erik Beever
Vaughan Busby
Vincent Larivierre
Maria Conceicao
Bjarne Henningsen

Good morning, team 6 pushed through the night to basecamp, as is hoping to fly to Talkeetna this morning. The storms just wouldn’t let up, and so the team decided to head down. We are all tired from a night of walking but got a beautiful Alaskan Sunset on the walk. All for now, hopefully our next message will be from civilization! -Andy

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 7 (June 10 - June 30)

Guides:

Jim Mediatore
Eric Shaw
Kevin McGarity

Climbers:

Fang Ben
Jami Cate
Justice Hamson
Neil Fallon
Benjamin Chan
Arnaud Devilliers

The lower part of Denali gave us a break weather-wise today. We recovered our cache below Kahiltna Pass and returned to Camp 2 and spectacular views of Mt Foraker and Kahiltna Dome. Winds are still high on the mountain above us- when they abate we'll make our move toward Windy Corner and Camp 3. Good to be moving again! Team 7 signing off for the night.

Tuesday, June 19, 2018

2018 Ecuador Cotopaxi Skills Expedition and Chimborazo Ascent (June 15 - 29, 2018) Dispatch 1

Guide: Romel Sandoval

Climbers: Max G., Laura K., Michael G., Kathryn S.

Dispatch from Days 1-4:


Members of the June 15th Ecuador trip called with the following news:

Greetings from Ecuador,

We've been having a great time together and our touring and acclimatization schedule has been working just fine. On our first full day in Quito, we did an orientation on the program and itinerary and then a thorough gear check. After that, we did a walking tour of Quito and visited a variety of cultural sites, from markets to colonial buildings with interesting architecture.

On Sunday we did our first major acclimatization hike, climbing 
13,776-foot Pasachoa. We had a good sunny day, though it was windy and kind of cold on the summit. It was a beautiful, open grasslands hike and we had excellent views of most of Ecuador's high altitude peaks.

The team was a little tired by the end of the day, but it was just the right level of challenge. No one had any problems with the altitude.

Today we climbed Rucu Pinchincha (15,413ft). Once again, the whole group made it to the summit, and had some incredible views of Quito and the surrounding volcanos!

The sky is very clear today, but it is also very windy and cold! We pretty much only stayed on the summit long enough to take photos and then hiked down.

This afternoon we are driving north, and tonight we'll be staying at beautiful Hacienda Guachala, And tomorrow, we make the fairly short drive to the hut just below Cayambe, which is our first big climbing goal. We hope the weather will be fair for our climb on Wednesday, but the forecast is calling for wind and rain in the next couple of days so we will see.

The group is very strong and we are all enjoying each other very much. They are a fun group to climb with, and I am hoping that everyone will get the chance to stand on the summit of Cayambe, Cotopaxi, and Chimborazo.

I hope you are all well. We will call again when we have a good connection.



Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 3 - June 23)

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Calvin Morris
Seth White

Climbers:

Peter Fowler
Steve Maliszeski
Andrew Prunty
Tim Wright
Erik Beever
Vaughan Busby
Vincent Larivierre
Maria Conceicao
Bjarne Henningsen

Team 6 had an incredibly stormy day today, with high winds and heavy snow in camp. We had a delicious Thanksgiving dinner, And got some clearing in the evening, although winds on the upper mountain still will not permit us to move upwards. The team is staying patient and positive. -Andy

Monday, June 18, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 7 (June 10 - June 30)


Guides:

Jim Mediatore
Eric Shaw
Kevin McGarity

Climbers:

Fang Ben
Jami Cate
Justice Hamson
Neil Fallon
Benjamin Chan
Arnaud Devilliers

Today our team engages Denali, the Athabascan name for this mountain alternatively translated 'The Dumper, the Blower, the Obliterator of Latrines'- today we engage her in a battle of snow shoveling as snowfall and strong winds intensify. Our camp remains relatively comfortable and secure, thanks to the round-the-clock efforts of our team. Weather will hopefully abate tomorrow, and we will resume forward progress towards the summit! Team 7 signing off for tonight.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 3 - June 23)


Guides:

Andy Stephen
Calvin Morris
Seth White

Climbers:

Peter Fowler
Steve Maliszeski
Andrew Prunty
Tim Wright
Erik Beever
Vaughan Busby
Vincent Larivierre
Maria Conceicao
Bjarne Henningsen

Live from the cook tent- still at 14, all 12 are still accounted for, restlessness has driven us to make laps around camp, and making new friends from all over the world. The weather was slightly better around camp, but the upper mountain was still shrouded in storm. The system is supposed to continue tomorrow, and the team will wait throughout the day to make a decision about what to do as we are almost out of time. Everyone is happy and healthy, and excited to see what the weather brings.

P.S. Happy Father’s Day to all team members dads!

Sunday, June 17, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 7 (June 10 - June 30)

Guides:

Jim Mediatore
Eric Shaw
Kevin McGarity

Climbers:

Fang Ben
Jami Cate
Justice Hamson
Neil Fallon
Benjamin Chan
Arnaud Devilliers

Team 7 is in a holding pattern as a strong low pressure system deposits snow and high winds across the Mountain. The team hardened Camp and ate some of their heavier meals to stay warm.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 3 - June 23)

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Calvin Morris
Seth White

Climbers:

Peter Fowler
Steve Maliszeski
Andrew Prunty
Tim Wright
Erik Beever
Vaughan Busby
Vincent Larivierre
Maria Conceicao
Bjarne Henningsen


And now, a passage from Tim Wright - The Team 6 collective hunker down in their tents at 14,200, waiting for the storm to pass. Here they will read books, regale each other with humorous anecdotes, and eat the occasional Milky Way. The team's bond is strong. Not even the gaseous exchanges occurring within sleeping bags could cause it to falter. They wait for the opportune moment in the weather to make their move to High Camp. Together, and only together, can they achieve their lofty goal of standing atop "the high one". We sit and wait in the weather, and will see what tomorrow brings.

Saturday, June 16, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 7 (June 10 - June 30)

Guides:

Jim Mediatore
Eric Shaw
Kevin McGarity

Climbers:

Fang Ben
Jami Cate
Justice Hamson
Neil Fallon
Benjamin Chan
Arnaud Devilliers


The mountain served us a "Welcome to Denali" cocktail this morning - it's equal parts wind, weather, and whiteout. We arrived at Camp 2 early this afternoon, built camp, and have just finished Eric's delicious burritos for dinner. We are in the midst of an extended storm cycle - tomorrow's a rest day for us, but there will be lots of shoveling and wall building!

Friday, June 15, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 3 - June 23)

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Calvin Morris
Seth White

Climbers:

Peter Fowler
Steve Maliszeski
Andrew Prunty
Tim Wright
Erik Beever
Vaughan Busby
Vincent Larivierre
Maria Conceicao
Bjarne Henningsen

Today Team 6 officially established Fort Knox at Camp 3 (14,200ft) in preparation for high winds and heavy snow this weekend. Vince miraculously held on to his uncanny stranglehold in cards, while our amazing team leader illustrated his excavation prowess in creating a more luxurious water closet- 14 ft underground, complete with a spiral staircase. Tim met his Vinson compadre, and Vince showed his masonry skills while still looking like a Canadian Fabio #lululemon. The team is patiently waiting for its chance to ascend the mountain safely. Team 6 wishes you all a good night!

Thursday, June 14, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 7 (June 10 - June 30)

Guides:


Jim Mediatore
Eric Shaw
Kevin McGarity

Climbers:

Fang Ben
Jami Cate
Justice Hamson
Neil Fallon
Benjamin Chan
Arnaud Devilliers


Team 7 made their cache at 10,000ft last night returned to Camp 1 (7,800ft). They will move to Camp 2 (11,200ft) tonight before the big storm hits Denali tomorrow night. 

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 5 (May 27 - June 16, 2018)

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Will Gordon
Lindsey Hamm

Climbers:

Dara Stilger Griggs
Neil Reisinger
Justin Kile
Alex Pancoe
Matthew Herbein
Aaron Gardner
Sharon Marston
Jonathan Blinstrub
Andreas Czymoch

After an incredibly discouraging last few days of weather and no change in sight, Team 5 elected to return to Base Camp and fly back to Talkeetna. Lenticular clouds were visible over Denali and Foraker, with blowing snow on all upper ridges. At 14K, the wind gusts were blowing out the northeast at 46 mph. Returning without having stood on top is always disappointing, but the team is safe and ready to enjoy the comforts of civilization. The team will return in 2 or 3 separate planes to the K2 Aviation hangar. 

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 3 - June 23)

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Calvin Morris
Seth White

Climbers:

Peter Fowler
Steve Maliszeski
Andrew Prunty
Tim Wright
Erik Beever
Vaughan Busby
Vincent Larivierre
Maria Conceicao
Bjarne Henningsen

Today Team 6 went for an acclimatization hike up to 16500ft on the west ridge. It was very windy and stormy last night. The team is psyched that they got to move today! Tomorrow we will fortify camp in preparation for a storm coming in over the weekend.

Wednesday, June 13, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 7 (June 10 - June 30)

Guides:


Jim Mediatore
Eric Shaw
Kevin McGarity

Climbers:

Fang Ben
Jami Cate
Justice Hamson
Neil Fallon
Benjamin Chan
Arnaud Devilliers

Team 7 reached Camp 1 (7,800ft) before it got too hot in the day. Everyone is doing their best to adjust to the night schedule. Tonight they will make a cache around 10,000ft and return to Camp 1. Veggie burgers for dinner tonight to help fuel tomorrow cache.

Message from Fang to Angela - “I love you and miss you. I am doing fine.”

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 5 (May 27 - June 16, 2018)

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Will Gordon
Lindsey Hamm

Climbers:

Dara Stilger Griggs
Neil Reisinger
Justin Kile
Alex Pancoe
Matthew Herbein
Aaron Gardner
Sharon Marston
Jonathan Blinstrub
Andreas Czymoch

Team 5 spent another windy, stormy night at Camp 3 (14,200ft). Their original plan or moving to High Camp/Camp 4 did not work because of this. Today they awoke to clear skies and will look at the forecast, and create a plan to be up and down in the next couple days.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 3 - June 23)

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Calvin Morris
Seth White

Climbers:

Peter Fowler
Steve Maliszeski
Andrew Prunty
Tim Wright
Erik Beever
Vaughan Busby
Vincent Larivierre
Maria Conceicao
Bjarne Henningsen

From AAI Lead Guide Andy Stephen:

Yo yo yo this is team six checking in from the illustrious Camp 3 (14,200ft). Camp 3 was quiet today as spaceship clouds shrouded nearby peaks. Many teams on the mountain are going stir crazy as the High One is showing its strength. Team 6 is eating well and playing card games to stave off the boredom of being tent bound.

P.S. - Erik says hi to YY.

Tuesday, June 12, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 7 (June 10 - June 30)

Guides:


Jim Mediatore
Eric Shaw
Kevin McGarity

Climbers:

Fang Ben
Jami Cate
Justice Hamson
Neil Fallon
Benjamin Chan
Arnaud Devilliers

Team 7 awoke to warm conditions and less than ideal moving weather. They spent the day working on sled rigging, glacier and crevasse rescue skills and will move to Camp 1 (7,800ft) tonight. 

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018)


Guides:

Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena

Team 4 has returned to Talkeetna and celebrating a great expedition. 

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 3 - June 23)

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Calvin Morris
Seth White

Climbers:

Peter Fowler
Steve Maliszeski
Andrew Prunty
Tim Wright
Erik Beever
Vaughan Busby
Vincent Larivierre
Maria Conceicao
Bjarne Henningsen

From AAI Lead Guide Andy Stephen:

Good evening, the storm finally broke last night, and the morning was clear but with high winds above Camp 3 (14,200ft), so Team 6 decided to stay in camp and work on skills needed for the upper mountain and improve the walls around our camp. Tonight chef is frying up some Indian food and we discussed training for the Olympics. Tomorrow, weather allowing we will fire in a cache beneath Camp 4 (17,200ft), fingers crossed.

Monday, June 11, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 7 (June 10 - June 30)

Guides:

Jim Mediatore
Eric Shaw
Kevin McGarity

Climbers:

Fang Ben
Jami Cate
Justice Hamson
Neil Fallon
Benjamin Chan
Arnaud Devilliers

Team 7 is on the mountain! This marks the last first dispatch of the season. The team made camp as BC today and will swiftly move into a night schedule tonight and make their way to Camp 1 (7,800ft). They will likely pass up friends from Team 4 who are on their way out. 

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018)

Guides:

Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena Lewthwaite

With the weekend storm at Camp 3 (14,200ft), Team 4 was held up due to low visibility and avalanche hazards. Now that the skies have cleared, Team 4 is making their way down to Kahiltna Base Camp.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 5 (May 27 - June 16, 2018)

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Will Gordon
Lindsey Hamm

Climbers:

Dara Stilger Griggs
Neil Reisinger
Justin Kile
Alex Pancoe
Matthew Herbein
Aaron Gardner
Sharon Marston
Jonathan Blinstrub
Andreas Czymoch

Team 5 remains at Camp 3 (14,200ft) after a big weekend storm that left a lot of new snow on the ground. No teams are moving up from Camp 3 today because of avalanche hazards. Today has nice clear skies and the plan for the team is to move from Camp 3 to Camp 4 (High Camp, 17,200ft) tomorrow (Tuesday), and go for the summit the next day (Wednesday). With a High Camp cache in place for them already, it should be an easier move to High Camp as they try to thread the needle.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 7 (June 10 - June 30)

Guides:

Jim Mediatore
Eric Shaw
Kevin McGarity

Climbers:

Fang Ben
Jami Cate
Justice Hamson
Neil Fallon
Benjamin Chan
Arnaud Devilliers

Team 7 was unable to fly in yesterday (Sunday, June 10th) due to the weather on the lower mountain. The plan is to hit the airstrip this morning and fly into Kahitlna Base Camp (7,200ft). An extra night of sleeping in a real bed will be a welcome thought in a couple weeks so let us hope everyone on Team 7 enjoys this.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 3 - June 23)


Guides:

Andy Stephen
Calvin Morris
Seth White

Climbers:

Peter Fowler
Steve Maliszeski
Andrew Prunty
Tim Wright
Erik Beever
Vaughan Busby
Vincent Larivierre
Maria Conceicao
Bjarne Henningsen

From AAI Lead Guide Andy Stephen:

Helllooooo! Team 6 made it to Camo 3 (14,200ft)  yesterday and built camp. We were also able to retrieve our cache which means today is a full rest day. Chef Calvin finished out his shift with a pancake breakfast with real bacon and maple syrup. The weather has rolled in this afternoon, leaving us a bit tent bound, but everyone is happy, healthy, and surviving today’s rough weather.

Sunday, June 10, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 5 (May 27 - June 16, 2018)

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Will Gordon
Lindsey Hamm

Climbers:

Dara Stilger Griggs
Neil Reisinger
Justin Kile
Alex Pancoe
Matthew Herbein
Aaron Gardner
Sharon Marston
Jonathan Blinstrub
Andreas Czymoch

Some unexpected snow and rough weather has hindered Team 5’s movement plans. Postitivley, because of their swift ascension on the lower mountain, they still have nearly a week remaining for a good weather window. Now is the time to eat up the heavy food and make the uphill travel easier.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018)

Guides:

Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena Lewthwaite

Team 4 made it down to Camp 3 (14,200ft). They are headed for Base Camp today and hope to fly out later tonight or tomorrow morning. They hope their next check-in is from the comforts in Talkeetna.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 3 - June 23)

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Calvin Morris
Seth White

Climbers:

Peter Fowler
Steve Maliszeski
Andrew Prunty
Tim Wright
Erik Beever
Vaughan Busby
Vincent Larivierre
Maria Conceicao
Bjarne Henningsen

From AAI Lead Guide Andy Stephen:

Team 6 had a great day today! We moved up to 14k Camp under beautiful, and very warm conditions. The team did great, and we are making camp and getting ready to eat a delicious Pad Thai dinner cooked by the one and only chef. Tomorrow we will recover and acclimatize at 14k while learning skills to negotiate the upper mountain.


Saturday, June 9, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 3 - 23)


Guides:

Andy Stephen
Calvin Morris
Seth White

Climbers:

Peter Fowler
Steve Maliszeski
Andrew Prunty
Tim Wright
Erik Beever
Vaughan Busby
Vincent Larivierre
Maria Conceicao
Bjarne Henningsen

This is Calvin with Denali Team 6 checking in. Today, our team woke up early to sunny skies that were not in the forecast. We were able to take advantage of the fortuitous weather and carry cache loads all the way to 14 camp. The route to 14 was in great condition with lots of new snow, making travel around windy corner fairly straightforward. Tomorrow we are hoping to move to 14 if the weather holds. Chef Seth is cooking pesto pasta to finish off a great day.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018) Summit Dispatch


Guides:

Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena Lewthwaite

From AAI Lead Guide Jeremy Devine at 11:50pm last night:

Hi this Jeremy from AAI Denali Team 4, and we just returned from our summit day. We left Camp around 9:40pm and took about 14 hours round trip returning to Camp 4. Everyone did really well and we will start our descent to Camp 3 tomorrow and then to base camp the day after. 

Congrats Team 4!

Friday, June 8, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018)

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

Team 3 has returned to Talkeetna after a successful expedition.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 5 (May 27 - June 16, 2018)

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Will Gordon
Lindsey Hamm

Climbers:

Dara Stilger Griggs
Neil Reisinger
Justin Kile
Alex Pancoe
Matthew Herbein
Aaron Gardner
Sharon Marston
Jonathan Blinstrub
Andreas Czymoch

Today Team 5 ascended to High Camp/Camp 4 (17,200ft) to leave a minimal cache so that their official camp move to High Camp wouldn’t be as difficult. They are hoping for a weather window over the next couple of days to reach High Camp and try for the summit. Everyone did very well on the and now they are eating dinner. We look forward to hearing more from Team 5 soon.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018) Dispatch from June 7th

Guides:

Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena Lewthwaite

From Jeremy Devine at 11:12pm last night June 7th:

Hi, this is Jeremy Devine with AAI Denali Team 4. Today we awoke to some heavy snowfall overnight which stopped early in the morning. We had some cloudy skies but the weather was actually fairly warm so we decided to move to High Camp (17,200ft). It was a fairly slow day, as moving to Camp 4 is the most difficult move day of the expedition. Upon arriving at High Camp the weather started to clear and became quite beautiful. We hope to have a window to push for the summit tomorrow or the day after.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 3 - 23)

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Calvin Morris
Seth White

Climbers:

Peter Fowler
Steve Maliszeski
Andrew Prunty
Tim Wright
Erik Beever
Vaughan Busby
Vincent Larivierre
Maria Conceicao
Bjarne Henningsen


Team 6 is taking a weather day at Camp 2 (11,200ft). Heavy snow started last night and continues today. The team ate breakfast sandwiches and had time to rest and relax after cleaning out camp. The inclement weather has been forecasted to continue for the next few days, And the team will be rested and ready to move when the time comes!

Thursday, June 7, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch From June 7th



Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

Team 3 is making their way back down to Kahiltna Base Camp (7,200ft) after a successful summit of the mountain. They rested at Camp 3 (14,200ft) and are back on a night-schedule to take advantage of firmer crevasse bridges on their return to base camp

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 5 (May 27 - June 16, 2018) Dispatch from June 5th


Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Will Gordon
Lindsey Hamm

Climbers:

Dara Stilger Griggs
Neil Reisinger
Justin Kile
Alex Pancoe
Matthew Herbein
Aaron Gardner
Sharon Marston
Jonathan Blinstrub
Andreas Czymoch

Team 5 enjoyed another rest day yesterday. Similar to Team 4, the strong winds and extremely low temperatures prompted the team to give their legs more time to recover and increase acclimatization. Weather dependent, they will move to High Camp/Camp 4 (17,200ft) today. 

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 3 - 23)

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Calvin Morris
Seth White

Climbers:

Peter Fowler
Steve Maliszeski
Andrew Prunty
Tim Wright
Erik Beever
Vaughan Busby
Vincent Larivierre
Maria Conceicao
Bjarne Henningsen

Hello all, team 6 is at camp 2! We had another night of beautiful conditions to move in. We arrived at camp 2 in the morning and Chef Seth cooked us up some scrumptious pasta. We all took a long nap and the team has decided to go snag our cache at 10k this Afternoon, which will mean if weather and energy allow we will switch back to a normal day schedule starting tonight and try to Cache around Windy Corner tomorrow morning. Everyone is having a great time and are looking forward to returning to a normal sleep schedule.

Wednesday, June 6, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018) Dispatch from June 6th


Guides:

Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena Lewthwaite

Team 4 elected not to move to High Camp today. Some very cold and strong winds chased out a few teams from High Camp and hampered the attempts of others. Team 4 elected to keep legs strong and move up in more favorable conditions. As this is the most difficult day of the expedition, a good move day is crucial to potential summit success. 

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch From June 6th

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

Glad to report Team 3 summited Denali yesterday, and is on their way back down to Camp 3. Summit day on Denali is usually 13-15 hours (or more) round trip not including breakfast and dinner in Camp. Congrats to the guides and climbers.


Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 3 - June 23, 2018) Dispatch 3

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Calvin Morris
Seth Morris

Climbers:

Peter Fowler
Steve Maliszeski
Andrew Prunty
Tim Wright
Erik Beever
Vaughan Busby
Vincent Lariviere
Maria Conceicao
Bjarne Henningsen


This is Seth from team 6 checking in from Camp 1 (7,800ft). Our team remained on a night schedule (meaning we travel by night and sleep in the day) and are just now returning from our first cache day at 10,000ft. We are planning to move to Camp 2 (11,200ft) tomorrow, weather dependent. The team is feeling strong and in good spirits. We are currently enjoying a delicious Mediterranean inspired meal before nodding off. Until next time, this is team 6 signing off.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018) Dispatch from June 5th

Guides:

Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena Lewthwaite

Hi this is Jeremy Devine with AAI Denali Team 4. Today is June 5th, almost June 6th as it is late in the evening here. Today we had another rest day and we are looking to move up to High Camp/Camp 4 (17,300ft) tomorrow. We have a decent little weather window coming up here and everyone is feeling strong and ready for the toughest move of this expedition. We will check in with you tomorrow hopefully from Camp 4. 

Tuesday, June 5, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 5 (May 27 - June 16, 2018) Dispatch from June 5th

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Will Gordon
Lindsey Hamm

Climbers:

Dara Stilger Griggs
Neil Reisinger
Justin Kile
Alex Pancoe
Matthew Herbein
Aaron Gardner
Sharon Marston
Jonathan Blinstrub
Andreas Czymoch

Hello, this is AAI Team 5. Yesterday we made a cache above the fixed lines around 16,000ft. Today was a rest day at Camp 3 (14,200ft). Everyone really enjoyed the rest day and was able to relax. We rebuilt some walls around the cook tent. Tomorrow will most likely be another rest day as we are watching the weather. Looks like we are going to have an opportunity to move up in the next few days but weather changes daily here. Thanks for listening and we will check in with you guys soon.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 3 - June 23, 2018) Dispatch 2

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Calvin Morris
Seth Morris

Climbers:

Peter Fowler
Steve Maliszeski
Andrew Prunty
Tim Wright
Erik Beever
Vaughan Busby
Vincent Lariviere
Maria Conceicao
Bjarne Henningsen



Hello, this is Andy from Denali Team 6 checking in.  After meeting in Anchorage, AK Saturday night, the team was able to fly into base camp Sunday afternoon.  We made camp and learned some new skills for the west buttress, then ate some delicious sandwiches and took a nap in preparation for a midnight departure to Camp 1 (7,800ft).  We had great weather for the move, and amazing conditions on the glacier, giving us a chance to take in the epic flatness of the Kahiltna Glacier. We made it to Camp 1 (7,800ft) just as the sun was coming up, ate salmon burgers and salad for dinner, and are now resting to take advantage of the good conditions tonight to fire in a 10,000ft cache.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018) Dispatch from June 4th

Guides:


Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena Lewthwaite

Team 4 rested at Camp 3 (14,200ft). Everyone is going well and enjoying the great views 14 Camp offers. With a week left of the expedition, they await a weather window. Until then, precisely packing and preparing for the upper mountain will be their hobby. 

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 5 (May 27 - June 16, 2018) Dispatch from June 4th

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Will Gordon
Lindsey Hamm

Climbers:

Dara Stilger Griggs
Neil Reisinger
Justin Kile
Alex Pancoe
Matthew Herbein
Aaron Gardner
Sharon Marston
Jonathan Blinstrub
Andreas Czymoch

Team 5 cached above the fixed lines today at 16,200ft. The weather was great on that part of the mountain and the team moved really well. With 12 days remaining, the waiting game for a good weather window begins.


Monday, June 4, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch From June 4th

Guides:


Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

From AAI Guide Katlynne Schaumburg:

Hi this Katlynne from AAI Denali Team 3. It is June 4th, day 16 of our expedition. Today we left Camp at around 11 am, made it across the Auto-Bahn, and to Denali Pass (18,200ft). Due to the number of parties on the route and the extremely cold and questionable weather over us, the team elected to turn back to Camp with all of our fingers and toes. The game plan for tomorrow is the same. We will wake up, have breakfast and try again for the summit.


Sunday, June 3, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018) Dispatch from June 3rd

Guides:

Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena Lewthwaite

Team 4 placed a cache above the fixed-lines today around 16,200ft and returned to Camp 3 (14,200ft). Another good weather day and chance for the team to acclimatize. Now that everything is set, the team can keep a sharp eye on the forecast and how the group is feeling before making the move to High Camp.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 5 (May 27 - June 16, 2018) Dispatch from June 3rd

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Will Gordon
Lindsey Hamm

Climbers:

Dara Stilger Griggs
Neil Reisinger
Justin Kile
Alex Pancoe
Matthew Herbein
Aaron Gardner
Sharon Marston
Jonathan Blinstrub
Andreas Czymoch

Hi this Quino from Denali Team 5. We are at Camp 3 (14,200ft). Today we retrieved our cache from 13,500ft. Good weather and no wind. Tomorrow we will cache above the fixed lines if we are feeling strong. We are pleased with our progress so far, but know that it's a big step up for what's in front of us. Hopefully, the weather will hold and provide us an opportunity soon. That's all for now and we will keep you posted.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch From June 3rd

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

Hi, this Ian from AAI Denali Team 3. It is Sunday, June 3rd and we are at High Camp (17,300ft). This morning dawned pretty clear but quickly turned into some very cold wind. At this elevation, even a slight breeze can be dangerous and we want to minimize the chance of cold injuries to our team of climbers and guides. Today we opted for a rest day and will try for the summit tomorrow. Everyone is resting, eating, and hydrating in preparation for tomorrows exertions. Hope all is well in the outside world.


Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 6 (June 3 - June 23, 2018) Dispatch 1

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Calvin Morris
Seth Morris

Climbers:

Peter Fowler
Steve Maliszeski
Andrew Prunty
Tim Wright
Erik Beever
Vaughan Busby
Vincent Lariviere
Maria Conceicao
Bjarne Henningsen


AAI Denali Team 6 is headed into Kahiltna BaseCamp (7,200ft). Perfect weather today!


Saturday, June 2, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 5 (May 27 - June 16, 2018) Dispatch from June 2nd


Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Will Gordon
Lindsey Hamm

Climbers:

Dara Stilger Griggs
Neil Reisinger
Justin Kile
Alex Pancoe
Matthew Herbein
Aaron Gardner
Sharon Marston
Jonathan Blinstrub
Andreas Czymoch

Hi, this is Will with AAI Denali Team 5, calling you from 14,200ft. We made it to Camp 3 from Camp 2 in great time and excellent weather. Tomorrow we will retrieve our cache from 13,500ft and then begin our strategy for the upper mountain.


Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch From June 2nd

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

Good evening, today is the 2nd June. This is Ian from AAI Denali Team 3 contacting you from High Camp at 17,300ft. We had a reasonable start this morning and everyone was pretty efficient at packing up. We got on the fixed lines in pretty comfortable temperatures and avoided bottlenecking from other parties on the route. We got here a couple hours ago and everyone is settling in and we are beginning the long drawn out process of turning solid snow into liquid water at a high altitude.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018) Dispatch from June 2nd

Guides:

Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena Lewthwaite

Team 4 has reached Camp 3 (14,200ft). They had perfect weather to move from a long stay at Camp 2 (11,200ft) and are now acclimatizing, resting, and enjoying excellent high altitude kitchen meals. They will plan to cache above the fixed lines tomorrow and keep a close eye on the weather forecast.

Nick Talbot @CF_vs_Everest gives a shout out to BEF @cysticfibrosis from Camp 3, pushing up the mountain and hoping for a good break in the weather to make a summit push #FightCFWithBEF #YouCannotFail

Friday, June 1, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch From May 31st

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

Team 3 has enjoyed some rest at Camp 3 (14,200ft) and organizing gear and equipment for the move to High Camp. The group required some extra work with fixed line practice because now they will be ascending the lines with heavy packs (tents, sleeping bags, fuel, stoves, high camp food). The move to High Camp is the most difficult day on the entire expedition so wish them luck on their big move.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Final Dispatch


Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed

Team 2 returned to Talkeetna last night and is enjoying the comforts of civilization. Good food, warm beds, soft pillows, and great Alaskan beer. Thanks for following along.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018) Dispatch from June 1st


Guides:

Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena Lewthwaite

Team 4 is making their move to Camp 3 (14,200ft) today. A couple days of rest really did the group well as they were able to make their cache without sleds above Windy Corner and made excellent time. Getting a break from the sleds was a welcomed event by the group. The weather is perfect for traveling conditions today and they will stroll into Camp 3 this afternoon.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 5 (May 27 - June 16, 2018) Dispatch from June 1st

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Will Gordon
Lindsey Hamm

Climbers:

Dara Stilger Griggs
Neil Reisinger
Justin Kile
Alex Pancoe
Matthew Herbein
Aaron Gardner
Sharon Marston
Jonathan Blinstrub
Andreas Czymoch

Hi this is Quino from AAI Denali Team 5. We are at Camp 2 (11,200ft). Yesterday we successfully cached above Windy Corner. It was beautiful weather, clear skies, and low wind. Today we are taking a rest day and looking forward to an early departure tomorrow for Camp 3 (14,200ft). Everyone is doing very well and we are right on track and we will talk to you tomorrow hopefully from Camp 3.