Saturday, January 20, 2018

2018 Aconcagua Expedition (January 8 - 29) from Jan. 20th

Guides:

Tad McCrea

Climbers:

Carlyle Eubank
Winchester Eubank
Jeffrey Gephart
John McCrea

From AAI guide Tad McCrea...

Hello all. Happy to report that we summited Aconcagua (22,841ft) today!

The day started out okay but on our attempt it began to snow and turned into a whiteout on our way down. We are back at camp enjoying a good meal and some rest and will start making our way out tomorrow. 

Friday, January 19, 2018

2018 Aconcagua Expedition (Jan 8 - 29)

Guides:

Tad McCrea

Climbers:

Carlyle Eubank
Winchester Eubank
Jeffrey Gephart
John McCrea

From AAI guide Tad McCrea...

Hello everyone. Reporting that we successfully made it to Camp 3 (19,600ft/5,970m) also known as White Rocks camp today! The views up here are amazing.

Due to our accelerated schedule with the weather deteriorating and our summit window getting significantly smaller, we had to carry some heavy loads up to camp. It's been snowing most of the day with not much accumulation. Fortunate, there has been no wind.

Our plan is to make a summit attempt tomorrow! Wish us luck and we hopefully be sending in a summit dispatch tomorrow.

2018 Aconcagua Expedition (Jan 8 - 29) from Jan 18th

Guides:

Tad McCrea

Climbers:

Carlyle Eubank
Winchester Eubank
Jeffrey Gephart
John McCrea

From AAI guide Tad McCrea...

Happy to announce that we made the move to Camp 2 (18,000ft/5,486m) today! Conditions have been great and our summit window is swiftly approaching.

After we moved to Camp 2, I was able to put a small cache just below Camp 3 (also known as White Rocks Camp) at 19,600ft/5,970m to put us in a better position if the weather deteriorates. 

Thursday, January 18, 2018

2018 Aconcagua Expedition (Jan 8 - 29) from Jan 17th at 8pm

Guides:

Tad McCrea

Climbers:

Carlyle Eubank
Winchester Eubank
Jeffrey Gephart
John McCrea

From AAI guide Tad McCrea...

The team carried and cached at Camp 2 (18,000ft/5,486m) today. A nice short trip with 1,600ft of elevation gain gives us a chance to continue to acclimatize properly. This is much more fun than the long treks through the valley. 

We ate some delicious salmon pesto pasta for dinner and planned for our big move to Camp 2 tomorrow!


Tuesday, January 16, 2018

2018 Aconcagua Expedition (Jan 8 - 29) from Jan 16th

Guides:

Tad McCrea

Climbers:

Carlyle Eubank
Winchester Eubank
Jeffrey Gephart
John McCrea

From AAI guide Tad McCrea...

The team moved to Camp 1 (16,400ft/5,000m) today and made good time.

We are acclimating well and looking at the potential for a summit window later this week. There are still a few steps in our way, carrying to Camp 2, moving to Camp 2, and moving to Camp 3.

The weather has shown a down ward trend with some strong, cold winds and some snow (as we mentioned previously in one of our dispatches). Hope it holds off a little longer for us.

2018 Aconcagua Expedition (Jan 8 - 29) from Jan 16th

Guides:

Tad McCrea

Climbers:

Carlyle Eubank
Winchester Eubank
Jeffrey Gephart
John McCrea

From AAI guide Tad McCrea...

After making a carry to Camp 1 (16,400ft/5,000m) the team enjoyed another rest day. Good meals and some shut eye as set up our attack plan for the upper mountain.

The plan is to move to Camp 1 tomorrow. The move is a little over 2 miles and 2,400ft of elevation gain, but this time with heavier packs.

Sunday, January 14, 2018

2018 Aconcagua Expedition (Jan 8 - 29) from Sun, Jan 14th

Guides:

Tad McCrea

Climbers:

Carlyle Eubank
Winchester Eubank
Jeffrey Gephart
John McCrea

From AAI guide Tad McCrea....

The AAI Aconcagua team took a well deserved rest day on Saturday Jan 13th. All the medical checks went well. 

Today, Sunday January 14th, the team cached some gear, equipment and food at Camp 1 (16,400ft/5,000m) and returned to Base Camp. This carry took about 5 hours. A nice easy 2 miles and 2,800ft of elevation gain. 

A small snow storm came in on us at the cache, giving us a taste of whats to come.

Saturday, January 13, 2018

2018 Aconcagua Expedition (Jan 8 - 29) from Jan 13th

Guides:

Tad McCrea

Climbers:

Carlyle Eubank
Winchester Eubank
Jeffrey Gephart
John McCrea

The AAI Aconcagua team has made it to Base Camp at 14,000ft!

AAI guide Tad McCrea says the whole team is happy, healthy and settling in at BC. Today, the crew is enjoying a full day of rest and acclimatization. They will also venture over to the medical check tent today at 6pm (local Argentinian time) to make sure everyone is acclimatizing properly.


Friday, January 12, 2018

2018 Ecuador Cayambe/ Cotopaxi Skills Expedition (Jan. 5 - 19, 2018) Dispatch 1

January 11th Dispatch

Climbers: Matty R., Michael J., Chris C., Sonja P., Hannah G.

Guide: Franklin Varela

Yesterday, the group successfully climbed Cayambe in perfect weather. Conditions on the glacier were not the best (the phone connection was poor and we couldn’t understand all of the details). Everyone is really happy about the climb.

After the ascent they drove down from the hut to Hacienda Guachala for what they called “some very good food and some very great sleep!”

After an easy morning and a big breakfast, they drove south to Cotopaxi National Park, and they are now heading for the beautiful lodge of Tambopaxi where they will stay for the night. They’ll have a great view of Cotopaxi, which is their next climbing goal.



2018 Aconcagua Expedition (Jan 8 - 29) from Jan 12th

Guides:

Tad McCrea

Climbers:

Carlyle Eubank
Winchester Eubank
Jeffrey Gephart
John McCrea

Yesterday, Jan 11th  the AAI Aconcagua team made the long trek to Casa de Piedra (10,665ft/3,251m).

Today (Jan 12th) the team will be walking strongly into Aconcagua Base Camp at 14,000ft, and enjoying some well earned rest and relaxation. The goal at Base Camp is to give all the climbers a chance to properly acclimatize as they strategize for the upper mountain.

Thursday, January 11, 2018

2018 Aconcagua Expedition (Jan 8 - 29) from Jan 11

Guides:

Tad McCrea

Climbers:

Carlyle Eubank
Winchester Eubank
Jeffrey Gephart
John McCrea

After some hard work (and no small degree of patience) the AAI Aconcagua team is back on it's original schedule.

The team made it to Papa de Lenas (9,330ft/2,844m) in good time and everyone did very well.

After a delicious breakfast of eggs with vegetables and cheese (Tad really likes cheese) they began the next part of the expedition, making the long 9 mile trek to Casa de Piedra (10,665ft/3,251m). From this camp, one can see the Polish Glacier on the giant mountain.

The plan for tomorrow is trek into Aconcagua Base Camp at 14,000ft!

Wednesday, January 10, 2018

2018 Aconcagua Expedition (Jan 8 - 29) form Jan 10th

Guides:

Tad McCrea

Climbers:

Carlyle Eubank
Winchester Eubank
Jeffrey Gephart
John McCrea

The Aconcagua expedition is working to get back on schedule after a baggage delay in Mendoza.

Our friends have left Penitentes and are on their way to Papa de Lenas. It's roughly a 7 mile trek through the low lands approaching the big mountain. Fortunately, there's only about 1,300ft of elevation gain. 

With the support of local mules (who carry the bulk of the weight) our climbers had light packs on their way to camp. We have undying gratitude for our four legged friends who work as our expedition partners.

The team plans to trek to Casa de Piedra tomorrow morning after a good breakfast.

Tuesday, January 9, 2018

2018 Aconcagua Expedition (Jan 8 - 29, 2018)

Guides:

Tad McCrea

Climbers:

Carlyle Eubank
Winchester Eubank
Jeffrey Gephart
John McCrea

Hello all and welcome to the AAI Aconcagua Team dispatch.

Yesterday, Monday Jan 8, the team met at a local hotel in Mendoza and prepared their personal gear. Unfortunately, there was a baggage issue (putting it lightly) and after a long day of waiting, baggage finally arrived.

As of this morning, the AAI Aconcagua team is heading to the park office to purchase climbing permits and then will be off to Penitentes to begin the expedition!

Penitentes is roughly a 3 hour drive form Mendoza. The team will stay at a hotel over night and then strike out for Papa de Lenas.

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