Wednesday, June 22, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 5 - June 25, 2022) Dispatch 17

Guides:


Will Gordon

Mallorie Estenson

Eli Spitulnik


Climbers:


Mohamed Ait Elorf

Matthew Bird

Michael Cover

Joshua Morrison

Karen Frake

Emma McCahill


Team 5 signs off after a safe and successful return to Talkeetna.





2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 5 - June 25, 2022) Dispatch 16

Guides:


Will Gordon

Mallorie Estenson

Eli Spitulnik


Climbers:


Mohamed Ait Elorf

Matthew Bird

Michael Cover

Joshua Morrison

Karen Frake

Emma McCahill


Team 5 conitnues descent. 


Tuesday, June 21, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 5 - June 25, 2022) Dispatch 15

Guides:


Will Gordon

Mallorie Estenson

Eli Spitulnik


Climbers:


Mohamed Ait Elorf

Matthew Bird

Michael Cover

Joshua Morrison

Karen Frake

Emma McCahill


Team 5 rests at High Camp after a successful summit. Will start making their way down today. 



Monday, June 20, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 5 - June 25, 2022) Dispatch 14

Guides:


Will Gordon

Mallorie Estenson

Eli Spitulnik


Climbers:


Mohamed Ait Elorf

Matthew Bird

Michael Cover

Joshua Morrison

Karen Frake

Emma McCahill


Team 5 happy to report that the team has safely and successfully summited. The team made it back to high camp last night around midnight. They will rest for a few hours and then begin their descent. 

Sunday, June 19, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 5 - June 25, 2022) Dispatch 13

Guides:


Will Gordon

Mallorie Estenson

Eli Spitulnik


Climbers:


Mohamed Ait Elorf

Matthew Bird

Michael Cover

Jackson Griffith

Joshua Morrison

Karen Frake

Emma McCahill


Team 5 moves to High Camp (17,200ft).

Saturday, June 18, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 5 - June 25, 2022) Dispatch 12

Guides:


Will Gordon

Mallorie Estenson

Eli Spitulnik


Climbers:


Mohamed Ait Elorf

Matthew Bird

Michael Cover

Jackson Griffith

Joshua Morrison

Karen Frake

Emma McCahill


Team 5 enjoys a rest day and prepares for the move to High Camp (17,200ft)


Friday, June 17, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 5 - June 25, 2022) Dispatch 11

Guides:


Will Gordon

Mallorie Estenson

Eli Spitulnik


Climbers:


Mohamed Ait Elorf

Matthew Bird

Michael Cover

Jackson Griffith

Joshua Morrison

Karen Frake

Emma McCahill


Team 5 puts in their cache above the fixed lines. Now they wait for a weather window to move up. 

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Final

Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin


Climbers:


Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacob Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 signing off

Thursday, June 16, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 5 - June 25, 2022) Dispatch 10

Guides:


Will Gordon

Mallorie Estenson

Eli Spitulnik


Climbers:


Mohamed Ait Elorf

Matthew Bird

Michael Cover

Jackson Griffith

Joshua Morrison

Karen Frake

Emma McCahill

Team 5 back carries and prepares to cache above the fixed lines (16,200ft).

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Dispatch 18

Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin


Climbers:


Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacob Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 begins descent. 

Wednesday, June 15, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 5 - June 25, 2022) Dispatch 9

Guides:


Will Gordon

Mallorie Estenson

Eli Spitulnik


Climbers:


Mohamed Ait Elorf

Matthew Bird

Michael Cover

Jackson Griffith

Joshua Morrison

Karen Frake

Emma McCahill


Team 5 move to Camp 3 (14,200ft)


2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Dispatch 17

Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin


Climbers:


Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacob Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 report from June 14th (11:38pm AK time)

Tuesday, June 14, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 5 - June 25, 2022) Dispatch 8

Guides:


Will Gordon

Mallorie Estenson

Eli Spitulnik


Climbers:


Mohamed Ait Elorf

Matthew Bird

Michael Cover

Jackson Griffith

Joshua Morrison

Karen Frake

Emma McCahill


Team 5 holds fast at Camp 2 (11,000ft) as they awake to marginal conditions. The mountain has experienced windy conditions at every camp. This has delayed their move to Camp 3 (14,200ft) but the weather looks to be improving. 

Monday, June 13, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Dispatch 16


Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin



Climbers:


Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacob Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 waits out another windy day at High Camp. Hopes to attempt summit tomorrow (June 14th)

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 5 - June 25, 2022) Dispatch 7

Guides:


Will Gordon

Mallorie Estenson

Eli Spitulnik


Climbers:


Mohamed Ait Elorf

Matthew Bird

Michael Cover

Jackson Griffith

Joshua Morrison

Karen Frake

Emma McCahill


Team 5 takes a rest/weather day at Camp 2 (11,000ft). Hope to move to Camp 3 (14,200ft) soon. 

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Dispatch 15

Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin


Climbers:


Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacob Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 takes a weather day at High Camp (17,200ft). 

Sunday, June 12, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 5 - June 25, 2022) Dispatch 6

 Guides:


Will Gordon

Mallorie Estenson

Eli Spitulnik


Climbers:


Mohamed Ait Elorf

Matthew Bird

Michael Cover

Jackson Griffith

Joshua Morrison

Karen Frake

Emma McCahill


Team 5 caches above Windy Corner (13,500ft) and returns to Camp 2 (11,000ft)


2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Dispatch 14

 Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin


Climbers:


Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacob Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 moves to High Camp (17,200ft)

Saturday, June 11, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 5 - June 25, 2022) Dispatch 5

Guides:


Will Gordon

Mallorie Estenson

Eli Spitulnik


Climbers:


Mohamed Ait Elorf

Matthew Bird

Michael Cover

Jackson Griffith

Joshua Morrison

Karen Frake

Emma McCahill


Team 5 back carries their cache at 10,000ft and returns to Camp 2 (11,200ft). Team will rest or try to put in their cache at 13,500ft above Windy Corner today depending on conditions. 

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Dispatch 13

Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin


Climbers:


Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacob Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 rests and prepares for their potential move to High Camp (17,200ft) today. 


Friday, June 10, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 5 - June 25, 2022) Dispatch 4

Guides:


Will Gordon

Mallorie Estenson

Eli Spitulnik


Climbers:


Mohamed Ait Elorf

Matthew Bird

Michael Cover

Jackson Griffith

Joshua Morrison

Karen Frake

Emma McCahill


Team 5 moves to Camp 2 (11,200ft) and will retrieve their cache from 10,000ft. A good active rest day. 

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Dispatch 12

Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin


Climbers:


Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacob Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 continues to patiently wait for a weather window. The team needs at least 3 good days to move up, summit, and descend back to Camp 3 (14,200ft). Send your good weather vibes!



Thursday, June 9, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 5 - June 25, 2022) Dispatch 4

Guides:


Will Gordon

Mallorie Estenson

Eli Spitulnik


Climbers:


Mohamed Ait Elorf

Matthew Bird

Michael Cover

Jackson Griffith

Joshua Morrison

Karen Frake

Emma McCahill


Team 5 reaches Camp 2 (11,200ft) early this morning. The team is doing well and happy to be off the night travel schedule on the lower mountain due to the warm day temperatures and weak crevasse bridges. 

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Dispatch 11

Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin


Climbers:


Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacob Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 takes a rest day and plans their upper mountain strategy. 


Wednesday, June 8, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 5 - June 25, 2022) Dispatch 3

Guides:


Will Gordon

Mallorie Estenson

Eli Spitulnik


Climbers:


Mohamed Ait Elorf

Matthew Bird

Michael Cover

Jackson Griffith

Joshua Morrison

Karen Frake

Emma McCahill


Team 5 makes their cache at 10,000ft below Camp 2 (11,200ft) today. (the voice dispatch is audible for the first few seconds so be patient until about 11 seconds in). 

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Dispatch 10

Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin


Climbers:


Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacob Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 makes their cache above the fixed lines at 16,200ft. 


Tuesday, June 7, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 5 - June 25, 2022) Dispatch 2

Guides:


Will Gordon

Mallorie Estenson

Eli Spitulnik


Climbers:


Mohamed Ait Elorf

Matthew Bird

Michael Cover

Jackson Griffith

Joshua Morrison

Karen Frake

Emma McCahill


Team 5 moves to Camp 1 (7,800ft)


2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 5 (June 5 - June 25, 2022) Dispatch 1

Guides:


Will Gordon

Mallorie Estenson

Eli Spitulnik


Climbers:


Mohamed Ait Elorf

Matthew Bird

Michael Cover

Jackson Griffith

Joshua Morrison

Karen Frake

Emma McCahill


Team 5 lands on the glacier after a long wait. Plans to move to Camp 1 in the wee hours of the morning. 


2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Dispatch 9

Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin


Climbers:


Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacob Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 rests at Camp 3 (14,200ft) and prepares to ascend the fixed lines. 


Monday, June 6, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Dispatch 8

Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin


Climbers:


Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacob Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 successfully moves to Camp 3 (14,200ft)



2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2022) Dispatch 15

Guides:


Tad McCrea

Justin Votos


Climbers:


Rajesh Nair

Richard Caton

Jim Heath

Alvin Loi

Shane Rowe


Team 3 still at Camp 3 (14,200ft) but making their way down today. 


Sunday, June 5, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Dispatch 7

Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin


Climbers:


Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacob Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 rests at Camp 2 (11,200ft) and plans to move to Camp 3 (14,200ft) today. 


2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2022) Dispatch 14

Guides:


Tad McCrea

Justin Votos


Climbers:


Rajesh Nair

Richard Caton

Jim Heath

Alvin Loi

Shane Rowe


Team 3 descends to Camp 3 (14,200ft). Plans to continue to walk out today and fly out today or tomorrow. 

Saturday, June 4, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Dispatch 6

Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin


Climbers:


Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacob Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 places their cache at 13,500ft above Windy Corner. 



2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2022) Dispatch 13

Guides:


Tad McCrea

Justin Votos


Climbers:


Rajesh Nair

Richard Caton

Jim Heath

Alvin Loi

Shane Rowe


Tad McCrea happy to report that Team 3 summits Denali. 


Friday, June 3, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2022) Dispatch 12

Guides:


Tad McCrea

Justin Votos


Climbers:


Rajesh Nair

Richard Caton

Jim Heath

Alvin Loi

Shane Rowe


Team 3 successfully moves to High Camp (17,200ft)



2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Dispatch 5

Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin


Climbers:


Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacob Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 retrieves their cache from 10,000ft and returns to Camp 2 (11,200ft). 


Thursday, June 2, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Dispatch 4

Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin


Climbers:


Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacob Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 moves to Camp 2 (11,200ft)



2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2022) Dispatch 11

Guides:


Tad McCrea

Justin Votos


Climbers:


Rajesh Nair

Richard Caton

Jim Heath

Alvin Loi

Shane Rowe


Team 3 rests at Camp 3 (14,200ft). Looking to move to High Camp and summit over the weekend. 


Wednesday, June 1, 2022

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 4 (May 29 - June 18, 2022) Dispatch 3

Guides:


George Bieker

Kyle Pratt

Tali Levin


Climbers:


Amy Gray-Smith

Rafal Aniol

Jim Gilbert

Jacob Weasel

Mik Gannon

Will Greene

Whitney Rhoades

Shrinivas Sainis

Stanley Gochenour


Team 4 places their cache at 10,00ft below Camp 2 (11,200ft)

2022 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition - Team 3 (May 22 - June 11, 2022) Dispatch 10

Guides:


Tad McCrea

Justin Votos


Climbers:


Rajesh Nair

Richard Caton

Jim Heath

Alvin Loi

Shane Rowe


Team 3 places their cache above the fixed lines at 16,200ft. Everything is in place for the team to move up, now they enjoy some sport eating at Camp 3 (14,200ft) and await a weather window.