Wednesday, May 23, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch 4

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

Good afternoon this Ian calling form AAI Denali Tema 3. Today is May 23rd and I am coming to you from Camp 2 (11,200ft). Today was our day to move camp from Camp 1 to Camp 2. We got an early start and everyone did a great job being organized and breaking down camp and we actually left camp ahead of schedule which is a rare treat. Made up here in good time, it can get pretty hot on the Kahiltna Glacier in the afternoon and we managed to get up here before that. Since we've been here everyone has been working hard to build a secure and level camp. Tomorow we have a rest day and pick up our cache (back carry) and hopefully, enjoy some pancakes. Hope all is well in the outside world.

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Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018) Dispatch 1

Guides:

Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena Lewthwaite

Team 4 has checked in from Talkeetna and is enjoying some coffee before heading to the K2 Aviation hangar to fly into Kahiltna BC!



Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch 10

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed

Denali Team 2, Day 10:

Today we woke to bluebird skies. A welcome relief to the cold night before. Today we managed to retrieve all supplies from our cache back to Camp 3 at 14,000'. Here we will remain until launching our siege higher on the mountain. Tomorrow we will have a rest day and practice fixed line ascension for the climb ahead. Team 2, over and out.

Tuesday, May 22, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch 3

Guides:


Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

From AAI guide Katlynne Schaumburg:

Hi this is AAI Denali Team 3 it's just a little after 6pm Alaska time on May 22nd. Today we made a cache at 10,200ft, gained about 2,700ft in about 4 hours. We had clear skies and beautiful weather. We were able to see the upper mountain of Denali and other peaks in the Kahiltna glacier area. Tomorrow we plan on moving camp up to Camp 2 (11,200ft) and retrieving our cache the following day. Everyone is is good spirits and moving really well!

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch 9


Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed

Denali Team 2, Day 9: After a long day of moving our team has reached Camp 3 at 14,200 feet! Tomorrow we will retrieve our supplies at 13,100ft if weather permits. The view from Camp 3 is breathtaking. Hope the weather holds. Team 2, over and out. – George

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Monday, May 21, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch 2

Guides:


Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

From AAI guide Ian Mceleney:


Good evening, this Ian from AAI Denali team 3 and we are calling you from Camp 1 (7,800ft). Yesterday was our day to fly in. The weather looked a little questionable, but K2 Aviation got us into Base Camp. We sorted through our mass pile of gear and and made a strong move to Camp 1 before it got too hot. It’s cleared up quite a bit for us so now we can rest this evening and prepare to put our cache in around 10,000ft later tonight or early tomorrow morning. 

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch 1

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

Team 3 made it onto the mountain and into BaseCamp last night around 6pm! It wasn't too promising at first with the low cloud cover, but they have established a place at Kahiltna Base Camp and prepare for the big single carry to Camp 1 (7,800ft) beneath Ski Hill. Packs will be heavy, boots will be tight and 21 days of Alaska mountaineering is underway!