Thursday, May 31, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018) Dispatch from May 31st

Guides:

Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena Lewthwaite

Hi, this is Jeremy Devine from AAI Denali Team 4 from Camp 2 (11,200ft). We awoke to some very chilly weather and blowing snow. So we decided to take another rest day in camp. We ate a lot of our heavy food and reorganized ourselves for the next leg of our expedition. Everyone is doing well and looking forward to getting above the clouds.

Wednesday, May 30, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch From May 29

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

Team 3 enjoyed a full rest day today at Camp 3 (14,200ft). It has been pretty cold at camp at the team has worked on fortifying camp walls around the tents and properly acclimatizing. With the cache in at 16,200ft, the team simply is waiting for the next best weather window for their move to High Camp (17,300ft). Everything is in position and the waiting game begins. 

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 5 (May 27 - June 16, 2018) Dispatch from May 30th

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Will Gordon
Lindsey Hamm

Climbers:

Dara Stilger Griggs
Neil Reisinger
Justin Kile
Alex Pancoe
Matthew Herbein
Aaron Gardner
Sharon Marston
Jonathan Blinstrub
Andreas Czymoch

Hi this is Quino from AAI Denali Team 5. We are calling you from Camp 2 (11,200ft). We got here last night and everyone did really well. Tomorrow we will cache above Camp 2 around Windy Corner at 13,500ft. That's the plan for the time being and we will check in with you all tomorrow. Thanks for listening.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018) Dispatch from May 29th

Guides:

Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena Lewthwaite

Hi, this is Jeremy Devine from AAI Denali Team 4. We are at Camp 2 (11,200ft). We took a full rest day today after caching at Windy Corner (13,500ft). We enjoyed some good food after our first real acclimatization day and everyone did really well. It's been really cold here on the mountain the last week or so but that is supposed to change according to the forecast. We will continue to move up the mountain and check in with you guys then.


Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch From May 30

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed


Today, due to deteriorating weather, the team came to a consensus that it was best to turn around on the way to Camp 4 (High Camp, 17,300ft). We gave it a good shot but it just wasn't in the cards this season. Tomorrow we will have an easy morning before we come together to descend off the mountain. Team 2, over and out.

Tuesday, May 29, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch From May 29


Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed


Denali Team 2: Day 16, Today we prepared for our final window to move to Camp 4 at 17,000 feet. Although tomorrow may be the hardest day of the Expedition our team is excited. Wish us luck and for the weather to hold. Denali Team 2, over and out.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 5 (May 27 - June 16, 2018) Dispatch from May 29th


Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Will Gordon
Lindsey Hamm

Climbers:

Dara Stilger Griggs
Neil Reisinger
Justin Kile
Alex Pancoe
Matthew Herbein
Aaron Gardner
Sharon Marston
Jonathan Blinstrub
Andreas Czymoch

Hello out there, this is Will Gordon from AAI Denali Team 5. We are packing up and making our move to Camp 2 (11,200ft). We successfully cached at 10,000ft yesterday and there is some weather moving so we are going to push for a more established and higher, Camp 2 in a few minutes. Everyone is doing really and psyched about moving higher on the mountain. We will check back in with you guys from Camp 2.   

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch From May 29


Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

From AAI Guide Ian Mceleney:

Hello, America and everyone out there listening. It is May 29th and we are at Camp 3 (14,200ft). This morning was pretty darn cold, but everyone rallied and got dressed up and we made our way up the infamous fixed lines. Everyone did pretty well on the lines which was nice, and we were able to our cache in at 16,200ft. Now that we are back at camp we are going to eat some good food and enjoy a well-earned rest day tomorrow. Goodnight.

Monday, May 28, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch From May 28

Guides:


Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts
Team 3 retrieved their cache (back carried) from Windy Corner. After a big move, a short, light walk is a welcome activity for the legs and glute muscles. The team will continue to rest and acclimatize at Camp 3 and continue their upper mountain preparation and strategy. Everyone is doing well and hoping for a healthy go pressure system to bless their passage. 

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch From May 28

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed

Denali Team 2: Day 15

Today we hiked to the Edge of the World, a 5,000-foot precipice that overlooks the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Low temperatures and high winds kept us from pushing higher up the mountain. Spirits are still high so wish us luck. Denali Team 2, over and out.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 5 (May 27 - June 16, 2018) Dispatch

Guides:

Higinio Gonzalez
Will Gordon
Lindsey Hamm

Climbers:

Dara Stilger Griggs
Neil Reisinger
Justin Kile
Alex Pancoe
Matthew Herbein
Aaron Gardner
Sharon Marston
Jonathan Blinstrub
Andreas Czymoch

AAI Team 5 is on the mountain and making their way to Camp 1 (7,800ft). After landing on the glacier late yesterday, the team moved during the night and early morning to the base of Ski Hill. The weather on the lower mountain has been great the last couple of days and the team hopes to place a cache at 10,00ft today/tonight. Everyone did very well on the move and is looking forward to the next move.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018) Dispatch from May 27th

Guides:

Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena Lewthwaite

AAI Team 4 has made it to Camp 2 (11,200ft). They took advantage of some excellent weather to make the big push from Camp 1 to Camp 2. They were greeted with a small snow storm upon arrival which blocked the spectacular views you get from Camp 2 but that meant more time and focus to get camp set up and prepare for the night.

Nick Talbot @CF_vs_Everest says Hi to BEF @cysticfibrosis from Camp 2, not stuck down a crevasse just yet #FightCFWithBEF #YouCannotFail

Sunday, May 27, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch From May 27

Guides:


Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

Team 3 has made it to Camp 3 (14,200ft) on Day 8 of their expedition. The team had beautiful weather and is working diligently to construct a well fortified camp. After the big move to Camp 3, they enjoyed some well deserved food including a make shift Thanksgiving meal. From Camp 3, the views of the surrounding Alaska Range peaks are a welcome sight. 

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch From May 27th

Guides:


Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed

Denali Team 2: Day 14, Today Chad and George ran a minimal cache to 17,000 feet under less than ideal circumstances. The rest of the team put the finishing touches on their high camp kits. P.s. “Jefe, No moose at squirrel. Lets see who can close first. Texas Fight!” -Jefito


Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018) Dispatch from May 27th

Guides:

Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena Lewthwaite

AAI Team 4 cached at 10,200ft today. The team switched to a night schedule to take advantage of the colder temperatures and more stable crevasse bridges. After a beautiful start to the day they encountered some blowing snow on their return to camp in the late morning. Team 4’s next move will be to Camp 2 (11,200ft). Everyone is doing very well and adapting to the nocturnal activities. 

Saturday, May 26, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018) Dispatch __

Guides:

Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena Lewthwaite

We had a good move yesterday 5/25 to camp 1. Sunny and warm. Plan on caching today. We ran into a couple ecuadorian friends (one guide Nico and his friend karl)at bc that had summited the day before after being onbthe mountain for only 3 days. Theyre resting at base to go for a single push speed attempt. We also flew on with Brandon and Lief the Mt baker rangers. Its their first time here and it was great to see some familiar faces on the mountain. Sunny and warm mid day today is pushing us to a sunset schedule. Leaving camp 6pm to take advantage of the cooler temps. Hoping to cache and be back to camp 1 by midnight. We plan on a similar later start tomorrow on our move to 11k camp weather permitting. 

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch

Guides:


Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed

From AAI Guide George Bieker

Denali Team 2: Day 13

The team acclimatized by climbing the fixed lines to nearly 17,000 feet today. Everyone felt strong today and we are looking forward to a weather window to move supplies to 17k feet. Stay tuned. (Richard says he loves Anna, George, and Freddie and that he is doing well.)

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

Team 3 cached at Windy Corner (13,500ft) today. The weather was very cold and very clear and put the team in excellent position to move to Camp 3 (14,200ft) in the coming days. The team remains right on schedule and moving up the mountain in great shape.

Friday, May 25, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed

Denali Team 2: Day 12, Today our team practiced fixed line ascension and descension. 14 Camp is getting mote and more populated. Teams from Japan, Eastern Europe, Poland, Russia, and other America teams just to name a few. Weather has kept us at bay but we are hopeful for the future. Denali Team 2, over and out.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch _

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

Hi this is Katlynne from AAI Denali Team 3. It is May 24th and we are at Camp 2. We retrieved our cache from lower on the mountain but was mostly a rest day. There were some pretty intense whiteout conditions throughout the day which made it difficult to enjoy the view but those are supposed to clear out soon. OUr plan for tomorrow is contingent on the weather but we look forward to filling you guys in tomorrow.

Thursday, May 24, 2018

2018 Ecuador Cotopaxi Skills Expedition and Chimborazo Ascent (May 05-18, 2018) Dispatch 3

Guide: Diego Zurita

Climbers: Marina K., Dale W., Micaleila D., Nicholas W., Renn S.

Dispatch from Day 11-15:


Members of the May 4th Ecuador trip called with the following news:

"Hello! This is Renn. I'm calling to report a great success on Chimborazo and to let you know each of us is having a fantastic time. We just came off the 20,703-foot summit of this huge peak, and we are super jazzed.

The weather was beautiful and the conditions were excellent until the last 100 meters to the summit. There the weather turned – what shall we say – 'inclement?' No, let's call it a total whiteout and a blizzard. Nonetheless, everyone made it to the top safely. It was a little uncomfortable, but we had lots of layers and stayed warm enough. It was a little crazy up there after so much time in great conditions. 




Climbers on the summit of Chimborazo

Here's Marina."

"We're down in beautiful BaƱos for the evening and an easy day tomorrow. In the morning we'll relax, explore the town and sites nearby, and in the afternoon probably go to the hot springs, and maybe get a message. This is all quite a fun contrast to the high alpine area where we just were. Here's Diego."

"Well – we've had a great trip together. We've done a lot of excellent climbing as a team and we've had a lot of fun. We're pleased to be able to report our success. Thanks for reading our news!"



2018 Ecuador Cotopaxi Skills Expedition and Chimborazo Ascent (May 05-18, 2018) Dispatch 2

Guide: Diego Zurita

Climbers: Marina K., Dale W., Micaleila D., Nicholas W., Renn S.

Dispatch from Day 9-10:

Diego called this morning to let us know that the climbing team had succeeded in reaching the summit of Cotopaxi.


The connection wasn't good so we have limited detail, but he said snowpack conditions and the glacier, in general, were in good condition, but winds made the climb challenging. Everyone had plenty of layers though and made adjustments during the climb as needed. He said everyone did a good job of staying warm and climbing with care.

He said the team members enjoyed the great views out over the Amazon and of course of all of Ecuador's other big peaks, including Chimborazo where they will be heading next.

However, first on the agenda was a great meal and bed. After getting up at midnight and ending the climb at 1 am (for the coldest and best conditions in the snowpack), Diego said everyone is really looking forward to a long night's sleep!


Members of the Expedition on the Summit of Cotopaxi! 


Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018) Dispatch 1


Guides:

Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena Lewthwaite

After a hopeful weather window in the evening, Team 4 was unfortunately grounded. They stayed the night in Talkeetna and will (weather permitting) fly into BC today.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch 11

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed

Denali Team 2: Day 11, Rest day. Today our team fixed camp and built an underground snow cave to substitute for our mess tent (as is a tradition on Chad Cochran's expedition). Light snow all day on the mountain and the trend looks like more snow throughout the week. We will practice skills and continue to acclimatize. Denali Team 2, over and out.
P.s. Happy Birthday Brian, Bo ✌ (From Leah)

Wednesday, May 23, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch 4

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

Good afternoon this Ian calling form AAI Denali Tema 3. Today is May 23rd and I am coming to you from Camp 2 (11,200ft). Today was our day to move camp from Camp 1 to Camp 2. We got an early start and everyone did a great job being organized and breaking down camp and we actually left camp ahead of schedule which is a rare treat. Made up here in good time, it can get pretty hot on the Kahiltna Glacier in the afternoon and we managed to get up here before that. Since we've been here everyone has been working hard to build a secure and level camp. Tomorow we have a rest day and pick up our cache (back carry) and hopefully, enjoy some pancakes. Hope all is well in the outside world.

P1140104.JPG

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 4 (May 23 - June 12, 2018) Dispatch 1

Guides:

Jeremy Devine
Steve Johnson

Climbers:

Alex Uddin
Adrian Bell
Nick Talbott
Rowena Lewthwaite

Team 4 has checked in from Talkeetna and is enjoying some coffee before heading to the K2 Aviation hangar to fly into Kahiltna BC!



Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch 10

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed

Denali Team 2, Day 10:

Today we woke to bluebird skies. A welcome relief to the cold night before. Today we managed to retrieve all supplies from our cache back to Camp 3 at 14,000'. Here we will remain until launching our siege higher on the mountain. Tomorrow we will have a rest day and practice fixed line ascension for the climb ahead. Team 2, over and out.

Tuesday, May 22, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch 3

Guides:


Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

From AAI guide Katlynne Schaumburg:

Hi this is AAI Denali Team 3 it's just a little after 6pm Alaska time on May 22nd. Today we made a cache at 10,200ft, gained about 2,700ft in about 4 hours. We had clear skies and beautiful weather. We were able to see the upper mountain of Denali and other peaks in the Kahiltna glacier area. Tomorrow we plan on moving camp up to Camp 2 (11,200ft) and retrieving our cache the following day. Everyone is is good spirits and moving really well!

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch 9


Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed

Denali Team 2, Day 9: After a long day of moving our team has reached Camp 3 at 14,200 feet! Tomorrow we will retrieve our supplies at 13,100ft if weather permits. The view from Camp 3 is breathtaking. Hope the weather holds. Team 2, over and out. – George

P1140121.JPG

Monday, May 21, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch 2

Guides:


Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

From AAI guide Ian Mceleney:


Good evening, this Ian from AAI Denali team 3 and we are calling you from Camp 1 (7,800ft). Yesterday was our day to fly in. The weather looked a little questionable, but K2 Aviation got us into Base Camp. We sorted through our mass pile of gear and and made a strong move to Camp 1 before it got too hot. It’s cleared up quite a bit for us so now we can rest this evening and prepare to put our cache in around 10,000ft later tonight or early tomorrow morning. 

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 20 - June 9, 2018) Dispatch 1

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Ian Mceleney
Katlynne Scaumberg

Climbers:

Xiao Han
William Martin
Chase Bradshaw
Joshua Martin
Michael Knittel
Cory Brooks
Kenneth Morand
James Stewart
Ralph Eberts

Team 3 made it onto the mountain and into BaseCamp last night around 6pm! It wasn't too promising at first with the low cloud cover, but they have established a place at Kahiltna Base Camp and prepare for the big single carry to Camp 1 (7,800ft) beneath Ski Hill. Packs will be heavy, boots will be tight and 21 days of Alaska mountaineering is underway!

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch 8

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed

Denali Team 2: Day 8. Today the team moved supplies up to 13,000' in preparation for our move to Camp 3 at 14,000'. The weather was beautiful to start the day and windy corner definitely lived up to its name. A few shout outs for the day: Jeff would like to Yeti call to his Mother, and Janice says, “Where is Ron he's missing the Oreos and Snickers”.


Sunday, May 20, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - 26, 2018) Final Dispatch

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Calvin Morris

Climbers:

Ulrich Meyer
Alois Fuchs
Beat Weber
Erwin Goergen
Helmut Staudmueller
Mathias Mueller

After a brutal stretch of weather that greatly delayed movement and ascension, Team 1 came to a unanimous decision to return to civilization and the comforts of home. The clock was running out on this 21-day expedition and the chances of moving any higher were diminishing. This was the first expedition team on the mountain this year and they broke trail up the Kahiltna for those who followed. They are now safely back in Talkeetna and look forward to thawing out and thinking about next year!

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch 7


Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed

From AAI Guide George Bieker:

Denali Team 2, Day 7. Our team was stuck at Camp 2 for most of the day. High winds, precip, and low visibility was the theme. At about 16:00 our team split into two. Half of us tended to camp and the other half retrieved the cache at 9200'.

Climber Notes: Leah wishes her daughter Emily a happy birthday. And Jake found a hair tie. Team 2, over and out. - George


Saturday, May 19, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch 6


Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed

From AAI Guide George Bieker:

Team 2 enjoyed a well-earned rest day today at Camp 2 (11,200ft) in cold, windy and snowy conditions. So goes life on Denali. The team did get to engorge on some excellent mountain food. Pancakes, cheesecake, and chicken alfredo were just some of the fine fare we had for food. We will wait for weather forecasts and be ready for a swift cache above Windy Corner (13.500ft). Team 2, over and out. -George

Friday, May 18, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch 5


Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed

From AAI Guide Chad Cochran:

Hello all, We made it to Camp 2 (11,200ft) last night. The team doing great despite some rough weather conditions. Everyone enjoyed some well-deserved pancakes for breakfast this morning. This is always a tough move day from Camp 1 (7,800ft) to Camp 2 (11,200ft). It was a hard day but the team did very well and now we can look forward to a rest day tomorrow as we prepare our strategy for caching below Camp 3 (14,200ft).



Thursday, May 17, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - 26, 2018) Dispatch 10


Guides:

Tad McCrea
Calvin Morris

Climbers:

Ulrich Meyer
Alois Fuchs
Beat Weber
Erwin Goergen
Helmut Staudmueller
Mathias Mueller

From AAI guide Tad McCrea:

"Hello out there sports fans, this is Tad McCrea reporting from Camp 2 11,200ft on Denali. Today we had yet, another rest slash weather day. Blowing snow and no visibility continues. We enjoyed a lot of hot food and drinks in the cook tent hoping the sun would break through the clouds, but it didn't. We were hoping to move to medical camp or Camp 3 (14,200ft) so we will delay our plans one more day and hopefully make it up there tomorrow."

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch 4

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed

From AAI Guide George Bieker"

Today AAI Denali Team 2 moved supplies (cached) at 9,800 feet beneath Kahiltan Pass. There, we left gear for the upper mountain and a few days worth of food. After returning to Camp 1 (7,800ft) we had an excellent meal prepared by Chad and now prepare for the move to Camp 2 (11,200ft) tomorrow, weather permitting. Denali Team 2, over and out.

Wednesday, May 16, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - 26, 2018) Dispatch 9

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Calvin Morris

Climbers:

Ulrich Meyer
Alois Fuchs
Beat Weber
Erwin Goergen
Helmut Staudmueller
Mathias Mueller

From AAI guide Tad McCrea:

"Good evening sports fans, this is Team 1. Today was pretty uneventful as we were afforded another weather day. It was a good day to rest as we've had some intense move days and cached above Windy Corner yesterday, but the machine doesn't like to stand idle. We will stick to our plan and try to make it to Camp 3 (14,200ft) tomorrow."

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch 3

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed

From AAI Guide George Bieker Denali Team 2:

Today our team managed to complete the longest single leg of the West Buttress route, the move to Camp 1 (7,800ft). Over 5.5 miles we traveled, carrying all of the supplies for the next 17 days of our expedition. Through variable conditions, we managed to wand the route nearly the entire way. If the weather holds we will move a cache below Camp 2 (11,200ft) tomorrow and return here (Camp 1) for acclimatization. Team 2, Over and Out. -George.

Tuesday, May 15, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - 26, 2018) Dispatch 8

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Calvin Morris

Climbers:

Ulrich Meyer
Alois Fuchs
Beat Weber
Erwin Goergen
Helmut Staudmueller
Mathias Mueller

Team 1 had an excellent day of weather and made their cache above Windy Corner (13,500ft). Some light snow flurries brushed the camp but the team still moved well and set themselves up for the big move to Camp 3 (14,200k) in the coming days. They are a couple days behind schedule but with some promising weather on the horizon, should be able to get back on track.

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch 2

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed

From AAI Guide George Bieker:

Day 2 at basecamp started with cinnamon rolls under blue skies. Our team covered the basics of glacier travel and crevasse rescue. Snow flurries throughout the day didn't dampen our spirits.
We look forward to the move to camp tomorrow if the weather holds. Lenticular clouds over Sultana darken the sky as we prepare for the night. Team 2, over and out.

Monday, May 14, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 2 (May 13 - June 2, 2018) Dispatch 1

Guides:

Chad Cochran
Jim Mediatore
George Bieker

Climbers:

Jacob Shaw
Daniel Tucker
Janice Schmidt
Jeff Iezzi
Catherine Hibberd
Leah Jay
Richard Pullan
Qaisra Saeed

From AAI Guide George Bieker:

"Denali Team 2 arrived on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier on the afternoon of Sunday, May 13th. We were fortunate enough to have bluebird skies during our 45-minute flight into the range. We have now established basecamp and will check supplies and cover technical skills before our move to Camp 1 (7,800ft). Weather permitting we will make our move to Camp 1 today. Team 2, over and out." - George

11722185_10155751261190244_7209219454630283865_o.jpg

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - 26, 2018) Dispatch 7

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Calvin Morris

Climbers:

Ulrich Meyer
Alois Fuchs
Beat Weber
Erwin Goergen
Helmut Staudmueller
Mathias Mueller

From Lead Guide Tad McCrea:

"Hello, sports fans. Happy to report that we finally made it to Camp 2 (11,200ft) today. we woke up to beautiful weather, much better weather than we were expecting and made our way up to camp. We got camp set up pretty efficiently and had a delicious Thanksgiving meal made by Calvin. Probably the best meal I've ever had in the Alaska Range. Our plan is to cache above Windy Corner (13,500ft) tomorrow and take advantage of this awesome weather. Very excited to be making a dispatch without talking about the snowfall or whiteout conditions."

Sunday, May 13, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - 26, 2018) Dispatch 6

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Calvin Morris

Climbers:

Ulrich Meyer
Alois Fuchs
Beat Weber
Erwin Goergen
Helmut Staudmueller
Mathias Mueller

From lead guide Tad McCrea:

"Hello, all. Hope everyone had a good weekend. We are on day four of being at 10,000ft. The weather subsided for us today but was still too marginal to travel. It was nice to get a small break from digging but we still saw about 10 inches of snowfall. Tomorrow, our plan is to cache or move to Camp 2 (11,200ft) and prepare some campsites. There will be a lot of snow waiting for us. Send us some good weather vibes!"

Saturday, May 12, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - 26, 2018) Dispatch 5

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Calvin Morris

Climbers:

Ulrich Meyer
Alois Fuchs
Beat Weber
Erwin Goergen
Helmut Staudmueller
Mathias Mueller

Team 1 remains in a holding pattern at 10,00ft. Heavy snowfall continues below 12,000ft on the mountain. The team was able to get some movement when they retrieved a cache they left at 10,200ft a few days ago. When they returned to camp they dug, and dug, and dug some more. The weather for tomorrow is looking sunny and they are expecting a break from the snow and whiteout conditions. "We look forward to breaking trail up to Camp 2!" - Tad

Friday, May 11, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - 26, 2018) Dispatch 4

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Calvin Morris

Climbers:

Ulrich Meyer
Alois Fuchs
Beat Weber
Erwin Goergen
Helmut Staudmueller
Mathias Mueller

Team 1 is still camped at 10,000ft just before Kahiltna Pass. The last 24 hours have been quite blustery and provided no visibility for the team to make their move to Camp 2 (11,200ft). They enjoyed a rest day while hiding from the wind in the tents and had an excellent pancake meal made by Calvin.

2018 Ecuador Cotopaxi Skills Expedition and Chimborazo Ascent (May 05-18, 2018) Dispatch 1


Guide:
Diego Zurita

Climbers: Marina K., Dale W., Micaleila D., Nicholas W., Renn S.

Dispatch from Days 1-8:

Our team has been doing well with acclimatization and felt good on the Cayambe ascent.

After our initial day and two nights in Quito at about 9400 feet, we had good acclimatization hikes on Pasachoa (13,776 ft / 4199 m) and then on Monday climbing Rucu Pichincha (15,413 ft / 4697 m). It's been a weird week for weather. It's usually nice at this time of year, but we had rain and even some snow on the summit of Pichincha! Very unusual.

Today (May 10) we have just returned to the Ruales Berg Orleas Hut on Cayambe after a great attempt on the summit. The past three days have been very snowy, so the glacier was covered with fresh snow. Four of our five climbing team members wanted to make the attempt, and under challenging conditions, I am happy to report that we made it all the way to 18,740 feet on this 18,996-foot mountain. The final section is pretty steep and would have taken at least an additional hour, and with the winds picking up, we decided it would be better to choose that as our high point and head down.

With wind and snow it was a challenging climb, and I was very impressed with how everyone did. They stayed warm, worked hard, and were very determined. I think everyone is very pleased with what they achieved, and they should be!

The weather forecast is for clearing starting Friday, so we are pretty confident that we will have good conditions on Cotopaxi, our next big goal. We'll keep you posted.

We are now looking forward to a great meal and a big sleep at beautiful Hacienda Guachala and then an easy day on Friday as we move south to Cotopaxi National Park. Bye for now!


Thursday, May 10, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - 26, 2018) Dispatch 3

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Calvin Morris

Climbers:

Ulrich Meyer
Alois Fuchs
Beat Weber
Erwin Goergen
Helmut Staudmueller
Mathias Mueller

AAI guide Calvin Morris reported that Team 1 is camped on the Kahiltna Glacier. They experienced whiteout conditions during their move day to Camp 2 (11,200ft). Conditions prompted the group to make camp. They enjoyed a delicious meal of pasta, salad and garlic bread which will hopefully fuel them the rest of the way to Camp 2 when the weather improves.


Wednesday, May 9, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - 26, 2018) Dispatch 2

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - 26, 2018) Dispatch 2

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Calvin Morris

Climbers:

Ulrich Meyer
Alois Fuchs
Beat Weber
Erwin Goergen
Helmut Staudmueller
Mathias Mueller

A report from lead guide Tad McCrea confirmed that Team 1 has made it to Camp 1 (7,800ft) at the base of Ski Hill. After landing at Base Camp Monday evening some interesting weather impeded the team's original move. Now, they are enjoying sunny skies at Camp 1 and preparing to place a cache below Camp 2 (11,200ft) around 10,200ft today.

Monday, May 7, 2018

Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 1 (May 6 - 26, 2018) Dispatch 1

Guides:

Tad McCrea
Calvin Morris

Climbers:

Ulrich Meyer
Alois Fuchs
Beat Weber
Erwin Goergen
Helmut Staudmueller
Mathias Mueller

Welcome to the first Denali West Buttress Expedition dispatch of the 2018 season!

After Team 1 was shut out of the range yesterday due to weather, lead guide Tad McCrea notified us that the team is about to fly into Kahiltna BaseCamp in a few minutes. The team is prepped to start walking upon arrival and will attempt to reach Camp 1 (7,800ft) today.

Safe travels to the team!