Tuesday, June 17, 2025

2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 7 / June 6 - June 26 / Dispatch 11

Guides:

George Bieker

Kevin McGarity

Hali Scroggins


Climbers:

Sean Greenwalt

Francis Mao

Anne Sophie de Saint Ours 

Eanna McGowan

Ahmad Rahman

Caitlin James Locket (CJ)

Xander Budnick

Raj-Alexandre Bouka

Louis Jammes


Team 7 enjoyed a rest day today. Spirits are high as they are still waiting on better weather to move higher up the mountain. 


Monday, June 16, 2025

2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 7 / June 6 - June 26 / Dispatch 10

Guides:

George Bieker

Kevin McGarity

Hali Scroggins


Climbers:

Sean Greenwalt

Francis Mao

Anne Sophie de Saint Ours 

Eanna McGowan

Ahmad Rahman

Caitlin James Locket (CJ)

Xander Budnick

Raj-Alexandre Bouka

Louis Jammes


Team 7 was able to place a cache above the fixed lines today. Everyone is looking strong and they are hopeful for good weather in the coming days to make an attempt at moving to High Camp. 

Sunday, June 15, 2025

2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 6 / May 28 - June 17 / Dispatch 17

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Ian Peterson

Andrew Krause


Climbers:

Thomas Hamski

Yang Qiao

John P.F. Lopez

Jonas Hansen

Tom McGibbon

Neelima Venreddy

Dmitry Gordeev


Team 6 sent a very exciting message today:

"Howdy folks, AAI team six checking in from 17 camp. Today our crew enjoyed a successful summit bid. We woke up early, got out ahead of the other groups, and enjoyed wonderful climbing conditions and views on our journey to the summit. 

We're currently resting, rejuvenating, and consuming copious amounts of food and water, as we hope to begin our long journey back to the airstrip tomorrow. A tube of Oreos spontaneously appeared and, and spirits are high. 

We want to give a big up to all the dads out there, both on our trip, and following along. Happy Father's Day to you all! 

Cheers!


2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 7 / June 6 - June 26 / Dispatch 9

Guides:

George Bieker

Kevin McGarity

Hali Scroggins


Climbers:

Sean Greenwalt

Francis Mao

Anne Sophie de Saint Ours 

Eanna McGowan

Ahmad Rahman

Caitlin James Locket (CJ)

Xander Budnick

Raj-Alexandre Bouka

Louis Jammes


Team 7 spent the day today practicing skills they will need to ascend higher up the mountain. They hope that tomorrow they will be able to place a cache above the fixed lines so they are prepared to make the move to High Camp. 

 

Saturday, June 14, 2025

2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 7 / June 6 - June 26 / Dispatch 8

Guides:

George Bieker

Kevin McGarity

Hali Scroggins


Climbers:

Sean Greenwalt

Francis Mao

Anne Sophie de Saint Ours 

Eanna McGowan

Ahmad Rahman

Caitlin James Locket (CJ)

Xander Budnick

Raj-Alexandre Bouka

Louis Jammes


Team 7 was sent a message today that they were able retrieve their cache and now have all of the supplies they need to place another cache higher up the mountain. The team is in high spirits!


Friday, June 13, 2025

2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 7 / June 6 - June 26 / Dispatch 7

Guides:

George Bieker

Kevin McGarity

Hali Scroggins


Climbers:

Sean Greenwalt

Francis Mao

Anne Sophie de Saint Ours 

Eanna McGowan

Ahmad Rahman

Caitlin James Locket (CJ)

Xander Budnick

Raj-Alexandre Bouka

Louis Jammes


Team 7 woke up to some breezy conditions, but were able to move to 14 Camp (14,200 feet)! They had some heavy loads but arrived at camp to some pleasant weather and epic views. 


2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 6 / May 28 - June 17 / Dispatch 16

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Ian Peterson

Andrew Krause


Climbers:

Thomas Hamski

Yang Qiao

John P.F. Lopez

Jonas Hansen

Tom McGibbon

Neelima Venreddy

Dmitry Gordeev


Team 6 enjoyed some well deserved rest at High Camp today. They had some warmer than typical temperatures, and took the opportunity to relax before, before preparing for, hopefully, a summit attempt tomorrow.


Thursday, June 12, 2025

2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 6 / May 28 - June 17 / Dispatch 15

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Ian Peterson

Andrew Krause


Climbers:

Thomas Hamski

Yang Qiao

John P.F. Lopez

Jonas Hansen

Tom McGibbon

Neelima Venreddy

Dmitry Gordeev


Team 6 successfully made the move to High Camp (17,200 feet) today! They ascended the fixed lines under favorable weather, and are now enjoying the time to acclimatize before making an attempt at summiting. 


2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 7 / June 6 - June 26 / Dispatch 6

Guides:

George Bieker

Kevin McGarity

Hali Scroggins


Climbers:

Sean Greenwalt

Francis Mao

Anne Sophie de Saint Ours 

Eanna McGowan

Ahmad Rahman

Caitlin James Locket (CJ)

Xander Budnick

Raj-Alexandre Bouka

Louis Jammes


Team 7 was able to place a cache of equipment and food above Windy Corner in preparation for a move to 14 Camp. The weather looks like it might be in the team's favor tomorrow, so they hope to make the move then. 


Wednesday, June 11, 2025

2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 6 / May 28 - June 17 / Dispatch 14

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Ian Peterson

Andrew Krause


Climbers:

Thomas Hamski

Yang Qiao

John P.F. Lopez

Jonas Hansen

Tom McGibbon

Neelima Venreddy

Dmitry Gordeev


Team 6 enjoyed a well deserved rest day today. They hope to move to High Camp tomorrow and find the weather needed to summit in the next few days. 

Happy wedding anniversary to Trish from Thomas!



2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 7 / June 6 - June 26 / Dispatch 5

Guides:

George Bieker

Kevin McGarity

Hali Scroggins


Climbers:

Sean Greenwalt

Francis Mao

Anne Sophie de Saint Ours 

Eanna McGowan

Ahmad Rahman

Caitlin James Locket (CJ)

Xander Budnick

Raj-Alexandre Bouka

Louis Jammes


Team 7 has made it Camp 2 at 11,000 feet. The dispatch was cut short but the team is safe and doing well. 


Tuesday, June 10, 2025

2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 6 / May 28 - June 17 / Dispatch 13

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Ian Peterson

Andrew Krause


Climbers:

Thomas Hamski

Yang Qiao

John P.F. Lopez

Jonas Hansen

Tom McGibbon

Neelima Venreddy

Dmitry Gordeev


Team 6 had a big day today. They were able to place a cache of equipment and food above the fixed lines amidst some good weather. The team celebrated the accomplishment with pizza.


Monday, June 9, 2025

2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 6 / May 28 - June 17 / Dispatch 12

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Ian Peterson

Andrew Krause


Climbers:

Thomas Hamski

Yang Qiao

John P.F. Lopez

Jonas Hansen

Tom McGibbon

Neelima Venreddy

Dmitry Gordeev


The day started out windy and stormy for Team 6. They spent the morning enjoying breakfast and some rest, and the afternoon enjoying the views and good weather that was provided. They plan to place a cache tomorrow if the weather holds. 

Shoutout to Ian's son, Miles!


2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 7 / June 6 - June 26 / Dispatch 4

Guides:

George Bieker

Kevin McGarity

Hali Scroggins


Climbers:

Sean Greenwalt

Francis Mao

Anne Sophie de Saint Ours 

Eanna McGowan

Ahmad Rahman

Caitlin James Locket (CJ)

Xander Budnick

Raj-Alexandre Bouka

Louis Jammes


Team 7 enjoyed some beautiful weather today and was able to place a cache higher up the mountain in preparation for moving. They returned to camp where they are currently digging a cache hole where they will be able to leave supplies they don't need higher up, but will retrieve on their way down. 


Sunday, June 8, 2025

2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 6 / May 28 - June 17 / Dispatch 11

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Ian Peterson

Andrew Krause


Climbers:

Thomas Hamski

Yang Qiao

John P.F. Lopez

Jonas Hansen

Tom McGibbon

Neelima Venreddy

Dmitry Gordeev


Team 6 took a hike from 14 Camp (14,200 feet) to retrieve their cache before returning to camp. They spent the rest of the day to practice skills they will need to ascend the higher part of the mountain. 


2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 7 / June 6 - June 26 / Dispatch 3

Guides:

George Bieker

Kevin McGarity

Hali Scroggins


Climbers:

Sean Greenwalt

Francis Mao

Anne Sophie de Saint Ours 

Eanna McGowan

Ahmad Rahman

Caitlin James Locket (CJ)

Xander Budnick

Raj-Alexandre Bouka

Louis Jammes


Team 7 experienced whiteout conditions today and decided to take a rest day today with some delicious French toast for breakfast, and practicing sled rigging skills. They hope to place a cache tomorrow if the weather holds. 

Mountain Trivia: Who is Barbie's little sister? Text your answer to your loved ones on the mountain!


Saturday, June 7, 2025

2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 6 / May 28 - June 17 / Dispatch 10

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Ian Peterson

Andrew Krause


Climbers:

Thomas Hamski

Yang Qiao

John P.F. Lopez

Jonas Hansen

Tom McGibbon

Neelima Venreddy

Dmitry Gordeev


Team 6 woke up early and was able to break camp quickly, before moving through some weather up to 14 Camp. They moved past the aptly named Windy Corner and made it to camp where they enjoyed dinner and now some good rest. 


2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 7 / June 6 - June 26 / Dispatch 2

Guides:

George Bieker

Kevin McGarity

Hali Scroggins


Climbers:

Sean Greenwalt

Francis Mao

Anne Sophie de Saint Ours 

Eanna McGowan

Ahmad Rahman

Caitlin James Locket (CJ)

Xander Budnick

Raj-Alexandre Bouka

Louis Jammes


Team 7 woke up at Basecamp to overcast skies and were able to move to Camp 1. It is currently snowing and they await a weather update with hopefully better news. 



Friday, June 6, 2025

2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 7 / June 6 - June 26 / Dispatch 1

Guides:

George Bieker

Kevin McGarity

Hali Scroggins


Climbers:

Sean Greenwalt

Francis Mao

Anne Sophie de Saint Ours 

Eanna McGowan

Ahmad Rahman

Caitlin James Locket (CJ)

Xander Budnick

Raj-Alexandre Bouka

Louis Jammes


Team 7 has successfully flown onto the Kahiltna Glacier for the start of their expedition! Stoke is high, and they plan to make the move to Camp 1 tomorrow.



2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 6 / May 28 - June 17 / Dispatch 9

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Ian Peterson

Andrew Krause


Climbers:

Thomas Hamski

Yang Qiao

John P.F. Lopez

Jonas Hansen

Tom McGibbon

Neelima Venreddy

Dmitry Gordeev


Team 6 called in from 11,000 feet at Camp 2 today. Yesterday, the team was able to place a cache in around Windy Corner in preparation for them to move to 14 Camp. Today they woke up to cold temperatures and windy conditions, so they spent the day "renovating" their camp. Listen in for some shoutouts (congrats Eliza!)



2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 3 / May 16 - June 5 / Dispatch 21

Guides:

Will Gordon

Eli Spitulnik

Ross Erikson


Climbers:

Ryan Jones

Justin Blackburn

Dirk Hanke

Nurdin Aidnov

Alexandr Podvalov

Henrique Franke

Gustavo Kronbauer da Luz


Team 3 was graced with a weather window and was able to fly off of the mountain today! They are all safely back in Talkeetna. 



Thursday, June 5, 2025

2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 3 / May 16 - June 5 / Dispatch 20

Guides:

Will Gordon

Eli Spitulnik

Ross Erikson


Climbers:

Ryan Jones

Justin Blackburn

Dirk Hanke

Nurdin Aidnov

Alexandr Podvalov

Henrique Franke

Gustavo Kronbauer da Luz


Team 3 is still at Basecamp awaiting the weather they need to fly off the mountain.


Wednesday, June 4, 2025

2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 3 / May 16 - June 5 / Dispatch 19

Guides:

Will Gordon

Eli Spitulnik

Ross Erikson


Climbers:

Ryan Jones

Justin Blackburn

Dirk Hanke

Nurdin Aidnov

Alexandr Podvalov

Henrique Franke

Gustavo Kronbauer da Luz


After a long descent, Team 3 has returned to Basecamp! They are hoping to fly tomorrow, as long as weather allows. 


2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 6 / May 28 - June 17 / Dispatch 8

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Ian Peterson

Andrew Krause


Climbers:

Thomas Hamski

Yang Qiao

John P.F. Lopez

Jonas Hansen

Tom McGibbon

Neelima Venreddy

Dmitry Gordeev


Team 6 stayed at 11 Camp today and enjoyed some tent time. Tomorrow they plan to place a cache past Windy Corner tomorrow in preparation for moving to 14 Camp.


2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 4 / May 20 - June 9 / Dispatch 14

Guides:

Chad Cochran

Tali Levin

Emily Cavanagh


Climbers:

Xinyi Wang

Yang Yao

Anne Bergman

Nathan Ganong

Danielle Verbrigghe

Anastasiya Vasilyeva

Hyman Shanan

Joseph Turon

Hugo Duarte


Team 4 called in today from 14 Camp where they had a stormy day that included a pizza party with dancing and costumes. They finished with a difficult conversation and decision to start their decent down the mountain tomorrow.


Tuesday, June 3, 2025

2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 4 / May 20 - June 9 / Dispatch 13

Guides:

Chad Cochran

Tali Levin

Emily Cavanagh


Climbers:

Xinyi Wang

Yang Yao

Anne Bergman

Nathan Ganong

Danielle Verbrigghe

Anastasiya Vasilyeva

Hyman Shanan

Joseph Turon

Hugo Duarte

Team 4 didn't make any big moves today, but they were able to take a hike to 15000 feet and enjoyed the opportunity to take advantage of their free time.


2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 3 / May 16 - June 5 / Dispatch 18

Guides:

Will Gordon

Eli Spitulnik

Ross Erikson


Climbers:

Ryan Jones

Justin Blackburn

Dirk Hanke

Nurdin Aidnov

Alexandr Podvalov

Henrique Franke

Gustavo Kronbauer da Luz


Team 3 had to spend another day at 14 Camp due to bad weather. The forecast looks more promising tomorrow, so they plan to make the move to Basecamp and hope to fly out to soon after.


2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 6 / May 28 - June 17 / Dispatch 7

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Ian Peterson

Andrew Krause


Climbers:

Thomas Hamski

Yang Qiao

John P.F. Lopez

Jonas Hansen

Tom McGibbon

Neelima Venreddy

Dmitry Gordeev


Team 6 enjoyed a rest day today. They had some windy weather, but hope to have better conditions tomorrow so they are able to cache some supplies higher up the mountain. 


Monday, June 2, 2025

2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 4 / May 20 - June 9 / Dispatch 12

Guides:

Chad Cochran

Tali Levin

Emily Cavanagh


Climbers:

Xinyi Wang

Yang Yao

Anne Bergman

Nathan Ganong

Danielle Verbrigghe

Anastasiya Vasilyeva

Hyman Shanan

Joseph Turon

Hugo Duarte


The weather today kept Team 4 from moving, but they were able to take advantage of the abundant time to rest and fortify their camp. They hope to take a hike tomorrow to better prepare for moving further up the mountain.

2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 6 / May 28 - June 17 / Dispatch 6

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Ian Peterson

Andrew Krause


Climbers:

Thomas Hamski

Yang Qiao

John P.F. Lopez

Jonas Hansen

Tom McGibbon

Neelima Venreddy

Dmitry Gordeev

Team 6 is currently at Camp 2 (11,000 feet). Despite the snow and wind that the team woke up to, they retrieved their cache and have been enjoying some tent time. Tomorrow, the "Riders on the Storm" hope to practice some skills they will need for moving up the mountain. 


2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 3 / May 16 - June 5 / Dispatch 17

Guides:

Will Gordon

Eli Spitulnik

Ross Erikson


Climbers:

Ryan Jones

Justin Blackburn

Dirk Hanke

Nurdin Aidnov

Alexandr Podvalov

Henrique Franke

Gustavo Kronbauer da Luz


Team 3 hunkered down in their tents today and remain at 14 Camp. Weather has not allowed them to move camp, but they are hopeful for better weather soon. 

 

Sunday, June 1, 2025

2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 4 / May 20 - June 9 / Dispatch 11

Guides:

Chad Cochran

Tali Levin

Emily Cavanagh


Climbers:

Xinyi Wang

Yang Yao

Anne Bergman

Nathan Ganong

Danielle Verbrigghe

Anastasiya Vasilyeva

Hyman Shanan

Joseph Turon

Hugo Duarte


Yesterday, Team 4 made the long move from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (14 Camp, 14,200 feet) amidst windy conditions. Team 4 was able to use Team 3's camp while they made a summit attempt, and today they recovered their cache before making their own camp. They hope to prepare for the upper mountain by practicing skills tomorrow.


2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 3 / May 16 - June 5 / Dispatch 16

Guides:

Will Gordon

Eli Spitulnik

Ross Erikson


Climbers:

Ryan Jones

Justin Blackburn

Dirk Hanke

Nurdin Aidnov

Alexandr Podvalov

Henrique Franke

Gustavo Kronbauer da Luz


Team 3 made the difficult decision, with health and safety in mind, to descend from High Camp. Weather was not conducive to making a safe summit attempt this time. They plan to descend to Basecamp tomorrow, but anticipate a weather pattern. 


2025 AAI Denali West Buttress Expedition / Team 6 / May 28 - June 17 / Dispatch 5

Guides:

Ian McEleney

Ian Peterson

Andrew Krause


Climbers:

Thomas Hamski

Yang Qiao

John P.F. Lopez

Jonas Hansen

Tom McGibbon

Neelima Venreddy

Dmitry Gordeev


Team 6 had a busy day today. They made the move from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (11,200 feet). The day started with pleasant weather that turned to less than ideal, and everyone is happy to be settling into camp.