Dispatches from American Alpine Institute's worldwide mountaineering expeditions, including the West Buttress of Denali, Ecuador, Bolivia, and the Seven Summits.
Update Received: May 31, 2014. 5:33pm PST. Shelby reports that they are still at Camp 3 and had another rest day today. This morning they had a pancake breakfast followed a few rounds of frisbee - to stay active and busy. They are hoping for a weather window on Monday or Tuesday allowing them to move up the mountain. Everyone is doing well.
Update Received: May 30, 2014. 10:05pm PST. Guide Ben reports in from 9,800'. They were not able to move up yet, but they are using the down time to acclimate and eat fancy chocolate mousse desserts.
Enjoy some familiar voices from members of Team 4....
Update Received: May 30, 2014. 9:11pm PST. Team 2 is still snowed in at Base Camp. It's expected another 1-2feet of snow may come overnight. Everyone is doing well: staying fed, hydrated and getting their workout shoveling snow.
Update Received: May 29, 2014. 10:58am PST. Calling in from 14,200'. Yesterday, Team 3 was able to place a cache at 16,200'. They experienced some high wind conditions while on the Fixed Lines which were also abnormally icy this year. Today the sun was shining on Camp 3, but the winds were roaring through the upper ridges, sounding like a freight train. The weather forecast is in a holding pattern through the 30th and possibly the 31st.
As soon the weather permits, the team will be ready to move up to 17K' since they have already placed their cache up high.
Update Received: May 29, 2014. 10:12pm PST. The weather has been quite challenging the past few days. Team 4 left Camp 1 around 10:00 in the morning with warm temperatures, but under light snow conditions. In the hours hiking up glacier the storm increased in intensity to white out conditions. In true expedition style, the team had to use their navigation skills and GPS to find their cache placed below 11K'. They arrived around 2:00pm, retrieved their cache and made camp here. It took a few hours prepping the campsite under the snowy conditions, but team members are happily, and tiredly, eating dinner and melting snow for water. They are not sure of the plans for the 30th. They would like to finish pulling their sleds up to Camp 2, but they are going to first assess the weather conditions in the morning before making the call.
Update Received: May 29, 2014. 9:30pm PST. Team 2 is still in Base Camp where it is just too snowy and too cloudy for the planes to get in. They have plenty of food and fuel, so everyone is staying hydrated and fed while they play the waiting game. Hopefully tomorrow they might find a little break in the weather to fly out. In the meantime, they are keeping busy playing frisbee, bocce, and walking up and down the runway in snowshoes and skis to keep the snow packed down for the planes to land. About 20" of snow has fallen since they have been in Base Camp and it is forecasted that another foot may come tomorrow. They hope they next time they call will be from Talkeetna.
Update Received: May 28, 2014. 10:09pm PST. Quino reporting from Camp 1. It has been snowing all day, but Team 4 was still able to go up toward Camp 2 and leave their first cache of about 16 bags of food and supplies. They hope to move camp up to closer to 11K' on the 29th.
Everyone is in great spirits. Dinner was chicken pesto with sun dried tomatoes and hot chili sauce seems to be a growing favorite among the Team.
Scott sends warm greetings to friends and family...
Update Received: May 28, 2014. 8:41pm PST. All is well! At Base Camp waiting to return to Talkeetna. No planes flying in our out until the weather clears.
Photos courtesy of Alasdair Turner and AAI Collection.
Update Received: May 28, 2014. 11:57am PST. Making friends and feeling at home at 14,000'. Team 3 sends a group shout out to everybody at home. The field trip for the day may be a venture out to The Edge of the World, but if not they will just hang out and play a little frisbee. Even though the weather is not looking prosperous through the weekend, they are planning to place a cache higher up the mountain on the 29th, but remain based out of Camp 3 until they can safely move up to 17K'.
Team Member Nancy sends a message to loved ones back home...
Update Received: May 27, 2014. 11:31pm PST. The weather report for the morning of the 27th had turned for the worse: a forecast of 6-12" of snow a day, meaning that by Friday there could be between 2-4' of new snow. With the last few trip days closing in and the weather not working in their favor, 45 MPH winds and and -25 degrees at High Camp, the team made the decison to retreat back down while they could safely pass through Windy Corner before the worse of the weather hit.
They are safely back at Base Camp in high spirits and waiting for the planes to come in and take them back to Talkeetna.
Photos courtesy of Team 2 members from arrival day.
Update Received: May 27, 2014. 10:29pm PST. Team 4 called in from Camp 1, currently covered in about 6" of snow. The plan for May 28th is to go up to 10,000' and store a cache of food and supplies; but that's only after eating a much anticipated pancake breakfast in the morning.
Team 4 members chimed in with greetings back home....
Trip Dates: May 18 - June 7, 2014 Guides:
Aidan Loehr
Shelby Carpenter
Ian McEleney Team Members:
Paul Bunn
Grazyna Machnik
Brett Martin
Nancy Rodriguez
Dominic Saul
Salima Shafi
Roy Wells
Update Received: May 27, 2014. 8:07pm PST. Team 3 moved up to Camp 3 at 14,200' in perfect moving conditions. They moved into camp and built some low walls The weather does not look promising for the next few days, so they plan on staying near Camp 3 for awhile. There they will build up their walls a little more, build a nice toilet, practice skills on the fixed lines and place a cache up high.
Update Received: May 26, 2014. 10:09pm PST. Team 2's outing for the day was a stroll to The Edge of the World for some beautiful photos ops. of the distant Alaska Range. Then, after checking a few different weather reports they have come to the conclusion that they may have a small window to move up to High Camp. The plan is to get up bright and early on the 27th and if weather permits move up, then hopefully make a "smash and grab" summit bid.
Let's cross our fingers and send premium weather thoughts their way. Go Team 2!!!
Liz Daley Team Members:
Davide Collini
Brian Dagg
Dmitry Gordovich
Victor Konyashchenkov
Kamsen Lau
Benjamin Lee
Michelle Smith
Scott Smith
Julia Sorenson
Update Received: May 26, 2014. 10:51pm PST. Team 4 called in with their first dispatch. After spending one day in Talkeetna, Team 4 was able to fly up to the Kahiltna Glacier on the morning of the 26th. The team headed straight up to Camp 1, forgoing a night at Base Camp in order to stay on schedule.
The plan for the 27th is to climb up the glacier and place a cache of food and supplies at 9,800', then return to Camp 1 for the night.
Photos courtesy of Ben Gardner and AAI Collection.
Update Received: May 26, 2014. 11:11am PST. Members of Team 1 made it down the glacier and back to Anchorage and are well on their way home. Everyone had a great trip and although they didn't summit they had a great time together. They saw a lot of beautiful scenery in the Alaska Range and go to test themselves under the harshest conditions the mountains had to offer. Chad, Tad and Kai hope that everyone has enjoyed hearing the dispatches and look forward to next time!
Trip Dates: May 18 - June 7, 2014 Guides:
Aidan Loehr
Shelby Carpenter
Ian McEleney Team Members:
Paul Bunn
Grazyna Machnik
Brett Martin
Nancy Rodriguez
Dominic Saul
Salima Shafi
Roy Wells
Update Received: May 25, 2014. 10:51pm PST. Aidan called in from 11,000' with an update: On the 24th, under perfect weather conditions, the team was able to place a cache up around Windy Corner. Today the team took a forced rest day, but used this as an opportunity to fatten up and rest up. The plan for the 26th is to move up to Camp 3 and be settled in by late afternoon before the temperature drops back down for the evening.
Update Received: May 25, 2014. 7:50pm PST. Selina serves up this evening's dispatch with a bit of good news; the predicted snow storm with 45 MPH winds ended up not being much more than a dusting. Although the storm didn't come, it is still too cold to safely move up to High Camp. Better weather is forecasted in the days to follow.
We didn't know that Guides Andrew and Geoff were such book worms, but Selina informs us that they have stolen her Kindle, and are now enjoying the 50 Shades of Gray Trilogy. And the big excitement of the day is that Andrew has completed his pull-up pit and declares he can do 12 pull-ups at altitude....seeing is believing though. Pull-up Wars tomorrow!
Update Received: May 24, 2014. 7:59pm PST. Team 2 is holed up at 14,200' in preparation for a possible snow storm. The team pulled up their cache they had previously placed above camp and brought it down, so they the extra supplies and fuel on hand just in case the snow stays around a few days. They will hunker down and report back with additional updates.
Trip Dates: May 18 - June 7, 2014 Guides:
Aidan Loehr
Shelby Carpenter
Ian McEleney Team Members:
Paul Bunn
Grazyna Machnik
Brett Martin
Nancy Rodriguez
Dominic Saul
Salima Shafi
Roy Wells
Update Received: May 24, 2014. 10:22am PST. Aidan called in an update that yesterday Team 3 was able to moved up to 11,200'. They lucked out and were able to set up camp in some pre-existing tent sites. Later in the afternoon, the team split up and while some members retrieved the cache below them, others made some "home improvements" at camp. Today, under blue skies, the team went up around Windy Corner and placed a cache before returning back to Camp 2.
Update Received: May 23, 2014. 9:17pm PST. Still at 14,200'. Team 2 took a forced rest day due to inclement weather, but they're keeping busy nonetheless...
Team 2's To Do List:
1. Dig cook tent seats deep enough to create back rests. Don't forget to add a throne or two. 2. Build a replica of Big Ben out of snow. 3. Dig out a solid pull-up pit, so we can stay in shape. 4. Add a few more blocks to our snow walls. 5. Read a few books. 6. Hang out. 7. Wait for weather to improve. 8. Eat some more.
Trip Dates: May 18 - June 7, 2014 Guides:
Aidan Loehr
Shelby Carpenter
Ian McEleney Team Members:
Paul Bunn
Grazyna Machnik
Brett Martin
Nancy Rodriguez
Dominic Saul
Salima Shafi
Roy Wells
Update Received: May 23, 2014. 9:59am PST. Yesterday, Team 3 started at Camp 1 in windy, snowy conditions. The team was eager to move up to Camp 2, but due to the white out conditions they were not quite able to get there. Instead they made camp for the night at 10,700', near their previous cache. Today they are planning on finishing the the next few hundred feet to Camp 2.
We lose the clear connection toward the end of the dispatch, but it sounds as if they plan on retrieving their cache after settling into Camp 2.
Update Received: May 22, 2014. 6:04pm PST. Much to their disappointment, Team 1 was not able to summit due to the unsafe extreme cold. They began their descent today and have the following words to share:
"although we didn't make it to the summit of Denali, our expedition in the Alaska Range has continued to reward us with experiences and scenery one can only find in the Alaska Range. We look forward to what else this majestic place has to offer us tomorrow on our way out and for safe travels on the lower mountain." -Chad and Team 1
The team may fly out either on the 23rd or the 24th. They will call back with a final dispatch.
Trip Dates: May 18 - June 7, 2014 Guides:
Aidan Loehr
Shelby Carpenter
Ian McEleney Team Members:
Paul Bunn
Grazyna Machnik
Brett Martin
Nancy Rodriguez
Dominic Saul
Salima Shafi
Roy Wells
Update Received: May 21, 2014. 11:20pm PST. Team 3 started the day off with some delicious french toast and sunny weather. They moved a cache of supplies and food up to 10,700' in preparation to move up to Camp 2.
Update Received: May 21, 2014. 5:42pm PST. Team 2 woke up to a chilly morning at 14,200', but the sun hit camp around 10:30am to help warm things up. The team was able to get up to the Fixed Lines and place a cache with a few days of food, fuel and supplies around 16,500'. Andrew and Geoff continue to be impressed with the speed and strength of all the team members. Round trip to the upper fixed lines and back to camp was completed in about 5 hours, home in time for high tea.
Update Received: May 21, 2014. 12:43am PST. Team 1 called in from 17,200' with a brief note letting us know everybody is doing well. The satellite phone is running low on charge, so they will check in later with more details of the past few days.
Trip Dates: May 18 - June 7, 2014 Guides:
Aidan Loehr
Shelby Carpenter
Ian McEleney Team Members:
Paul Bunn
Grazyna Machnik
Brett Martin
Nancy Rodriguez
Dominic Saul
Salima Shafi
Roy Wells
Update Received: May 20, 2014. 10:31pm PST. Aidan called in with a late evening update. Team 3 spent the day resting and mastering the technical art of building snow walls. If the weather permits, they are hoping to move up to Camp 2 on the 21st.
Guides:
Paul Ivaska
Britt Ruegger
Jeremy Devine
Bryce Hill
Team Members:
Bouchra Baibanou
Giles Jones
John Keplinger
Amandeep Luther
Claudia Rudolph
Lucjan Zolinerowski Update Received: June 10, 2014. 11:08am PST. There is currently 5" fresh new fallen snow at Base Camp. The team is currently in a holding pattern in Talkeetna waiting for K2 Aviation to give them the clear to fly out. They are in high spirits, motivated and are enjoying the sites around town.
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