Thursday, June 30, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 7 (June 13 - July 3) Dispatch 12

June 30, 2016

Guides:
Andy Stephen
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Steve Jacobs
Teija Sirko
Alan Millard
Mike Snelling
James Black

After hauling heavy sleds through the night while the lower Kahiltna glacier was frozen, we arrived back at basecamp, were greeted by clear skies, and flew back to Talkeetna around 9am. We had a very successful trip, thank you all for following along! - Andy

Tuesday, June 28, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 7 (June 13 - July 3) Dispatch 11

June 28, 2016

Guides:
Andy Stephen
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Steve Jacobs
Teija Sirko
Alan Millard
Mike Snelling
James Black

Team 7 dispatch June 28- we are sitting at camp 3 again, waiting out weather and eating tons of food to Lighten our loads to basecamp. We are planning on heading out to basecamp tonight while the lower glacier is Still frozen. Being the last AAI trip on the mountain, we are taking extra gear down with us that has been Used by previous trips, so it will be a difficult night, but we will be drinking celebratory beer for breakfast at basecamp tomorrow morning while we wait for our flight back to civilization. Cheers! -Andy


Monday, June 27, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 6 (June 6 - 26) Dispatch 12

June 27, 2016

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Jim Mediatore
Angela Henderson

Climbers:

Gerard Hackett
Jeb Burchenal
Michael Henry
Timo Smuts
Cyprian Z
John Carswell
Hideyasu Nishi

AAI lead guide Paul Ivaska called us earlier today to let everyone know Team 6 has made their way back down to Base Camp. They were still waiting for flyable weather when they called at 10:30am Alaska time, before K2 Aviation could come pick them up and fly everyone off the mountain. We are hoping to hear of Team 6 safely arriving back in Talkeetna, if they have not already arrived.


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 7 (June 13 - July 3) Dispatch 10 Summit Day!

June 25, 2016

Guides:
Andy Stephen
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Steve Jacobs
Teija Sirko
Alan Millard
Mike Snelling
James Black

Team 7 dispatch - I am writing this from the top of North America! The weather is the nicest I've ever seen for a summit day, and the team is so excited to be up here. Much love to all of you out there, see you soon - Andy

Saturday, June 25, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 7 (June 13 - July 3) Dispatch 9

June 24, 2016

Guides:
Andy Stephen
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Steve Jacobs
Teija Sirko
Alan Millard
Mike Snelling
James Black

Team 7 had an awesome acclimatization day to 16300 ft, with absolutely beautiful weather, although it got pretty darn hot this afternoon. This evening we ate mondo burritos, and were visited by a successful team 6 on their way back to basecamp. Tomorrow we will move to high camp, hopefully in weather as nice as we had today. That's all til tomorrow! -Andy

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 6 (June 6 - 26) Dispatch 11 Made the Summit!

June 24, 2016

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Jim Mediatore
Angela Henderson

Climbers:

Gerard Hackett
Jeb Burchenal
Michael Henry
Timo Smuts
Cyprian Z
John Carswell
Hideyasu Nishi

Team 6 has made the summit and is on their way back down. Everyone is doing well!



2016 Denali West Buttress Team 7 (June 13 - July 3) Dispatch 8

June 24, 2016

Guides:
Andy Stephen
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Steve Jacobs
Teija Sirko
Alan Millard
Mike Snelling
James Black

Dispatch June 23, team 7- today the team rested and practiced some skills for the fixed lines. It was a nice day in camp, and we ate lots of food and relaxed in preparation for an acclimatization hike tomorrow to washburns thumb at 16,500 ft. Tonight Jeremy is Cooking up some jambalaya which we are all very excited about. We will check back in tomorrow, goodnight! -Andy

Wednesday, June 22, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 6 (June 6 - 26) Dispatch 10

June 22, 2016

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Jim Mediatore
Angela Henderson

Climbers:

Gerard Hackett
Jeb Burchenal
Michael Henry
Timo Smuts
Cyprian Z
John Carswell
Hideyasu Nishi

AAI lead guide Paul Ivaska called this afternoon. Team 6 had moved up to High Camp (17,300 ft) on Monday and were hoping to summit today.

Unfortunately the weather had changed and it was a bit windy (30-50 mph winds at the summit), so the team spent their time building snow walls and fortifying camp. The forecast has the winds dying down and the weather is looking good for a summit attempt hopefully on Thursdsy (6/23/16).

Everyone on the team is doing well and they are all anxious about their summit attempt tomorrow, keeping fingers crossed.

Best of luck to Team 6 tomorrow, we're all looking forward to hearing from them soon!






2016 Denali West Buttrss Team 7 (June 13 - July 3) Dispatch 8

June 21, 2016

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Steve Jacobs
Teija Sirko
Alan Millard
Mike Snelling
James Black



Team 7 was given a break in the weather and had perfect conditions for their move to camp 3. Even though the loads were heavy and it's one of the harder days of the expedition, the team did excellent and got all moved into a nice camp at 14,000 ft. Everyone is tired and looking forward to a full nights rest, but are excited to be at the luxurious camp 3!

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 7 (June 13 - July 3) Dispatch 7

June 20, 2016

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Steve Jacobs
Teija Sirko
Alan Millard
Mike Snelling
James Black

Andy sent us a text from Camp 2 "We spent one more day at camp 2 today due to continued high winds on windy corner. We went for a walk."

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 6 (June 6 - 26) Dispatch 10

June 20, 2016

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Jim Mediatore
Angela Henderson

Climbers:

Gerard Hackett
Jeb Burchenal
Michael Henry
Timo Smuts
Cyprian Z
John Carswell
Hideyasu Nishi

AAI Jim called to let us know the ascended the fixed lines up to High Camp.  They enjoyed the view over a beautiful sea of clouds. They plan a summit attempt on Wednesday.

Sunday, June 19, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 6 (June 6 - 26) Dispatch 9

June 19, 2016

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Jim Mediatore
Angela Henderson

Climbers:

Gerard Hackett
Jeb Burchenal
Michael Henry
Timo Smuts
Cyprian Z
John Carswell
Hideyasu Nishi

AAI guide Angela Henderson called this evening to let us know that all is well and Team 6 is still waiting out this storm at Camp 3.

We are hoping to hear news of good weather arriving so both remaining AAI Denali teams can move up the mountain, soon! And from all of us at AAI, Happy Father's Day to all the Dads out there!





2016 Denali West Buttrss Team 7 (June 13 - July 3) Dispatch 6

June 19, 2016

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Steve Jacobs
Teija Sirko
Alan Millard
Mike Snelling
James Black

AAI Lead Guide Andy Stephen let us know Team 7 was taking another forced rest day at Camp 2. It had been snowing heavily all day, so the team was playing chess and cards and telling stories to keep themselves entertained. Team 7 is doing great and looking forward to moving up to Camp 3 once the weather clears.

From all of us at AAI, Happy Father's Day!




Saturday, June 18, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttrss Team 7 (June 13 - July 3) Dispatch 5

June 18, 2016

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Steve Jacobs
Teija Sirko
Alan Millard
Mike Snelling
James Black

AAI Lead Guide Andy Stephen let us know Team 7 had a leisurely day at Camp 2. They woke up to strong winds at camp. After a delicious breakfast of biscuits and gravy, they spent the morning fortifying their camp and then took full advantage of their forced rest day. Tonight they are planning a dinner of pesto pasta and are anticipating spending another day at Camp 2 tomorrow.



Friday, June 17, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttrss Team 7 (June 13 - July 3) Dispatch 4

June 16, 2016

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Steve Jacobs
Teija Sirko
Alan Millard
Mike Snelling
James Black

AAI Lead Guide Andy Stephen let us know Team 7 woke up early today and put in their cache at Windy Corner (13,500ft). The wind rolled in today, but the sun to the temperatures on the warmer side.

AAI guide Jeremy Devine was cooking up some chicken curry for dinner and the team was planning to get as much rest as possible this evening. If the weather holds, Team 7 plans to move up to Camp 3 (14,300ft) tomorrow (June 18th).

We're looking forward to hearing from Team 7 again soon.


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 6 (June 6 - 26) Dispatch 8

June 17, 2016

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Jim Mediatore
Angela Henderson

Climbers:

Gerard Hackett
Jeb Burchenal
Michael Henry
Timo Smuts
Cyprian Z
John Carswell
Hideyasu Nishi

AAI lead guide Paul Ivaska called in this evening from up at Camp 3. Team 6 had an exciting day putting in their cache above the fixed lines before the storm hit. This storm is expected to last through the weekend. Once there is a weather window, Team 6 will attempt to move up to High Camp. But for now, they are waiting out the weather at Camp 3.


Thursday, June 16, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 6 (June 6 - 26) Dispatch 7

June 16, 2016

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Jim Mediatore
Angela Henderson

Climbers:

Gerard Hackett
Jeb Burchenal
Michael Henry
Timo Smuts
Cyprian Z
John Carswell
Hideyasu Nishi

AAI lead guide Paul Ivaska called this evening from Camp 3. Team 6 went over the fixed lines today and checked out the Edge of the World.

Their plan for tomorrow (Friday) is to make a cache above the fixed lines at 16,000ft then return to Camp 3 and wait for a weather window to allow them to move up to High Camp and summit. There is en expected weather system moving in for the weekend but we're hoping it doesn't last long.



Everyone is doing really well and we're looking forward to hearing from Team 6 again soon.


2016 Denali West Buttrss Team 7 (June 13 - July 3) Dispatch 3

June 16, 2016

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Steve Jacobs
Teija Sirko
Alan Millard
Mike Snelling
James Black

AAI Lead Guide Andy Stephen let us know that Team 7 made it to Camp 2 (about 10,200ft) last night. Today they are resting up and eating good food. The team has been traveling at night, so tonight they are planning to back-carry to pick-up their cache from down at 10,000ft.

The team is excited to be moving quickly through the lower mountain and will be switching to a day schedule for tomorrow. They are hoping to make their cache at Windy Corner (about 13,400ft) tomorrow.

Wednesday, June 15, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 6 (June 6 - 26) Dispatch 6

June 15, 2016

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Jim Mediatore
Angela Henderson

Climbers:

Gerard Hackett
Jeb Burchenal
Michael Henry
Timo Smuts
Cyprian Z
John Carswell
Hideyasu Nishi

AAI lead guide Paul Ivaska called this evening to report on Team 6. As anticipated, Team 6 arrived at Camp 3 (14,300ft) yesterday (Tuesday), June 14th. Today they back-carried to pick-up their cache from Windy Corner (13,450ft).

Tomorrow (Thursday) the team plans to practice using the fixed lines in preparation for making their next cache on the 16,000ft ridge above the fixed lines. Everyone is doing really well and they are currently having great weather - last night was a bit windy, with gusts up to 60mph high on the mountain and around 40mph at Camp 3.

We are hoping the weather continues so Team 6 (and the other teams on Denali) can continue their progress up the mountain. We are looking forward to hearing from Team 6 again soon!



2016 Denali West Buttrss Team 7 (June 13 - July 3) Dispatch 2

June 15, 2016

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Steve Jacobs
Teija Sirko
Alan Millard
Mike Snelling
James Black

AAI Lead Guide Andy Stephen let us know that Team 7 made their cache at about 10,000 ft yesterday. Their weather throughout the day was a bit cold and windy, but overall it was a beautiful day. The team was eating hamburgers and drinking hot chocolate before getting some rest for the night.

Team 7 is planning to make the move up to Camp 2 today (Wednesday).


Tuesday, June 14, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 5 (May 30 - June 19) Dispatch 13 - Final Dispatch

June 14, 2016

Guides:

Andrew Yasso
Zach Lovell
Will Gordon

Climbers:

Rob Parker
Sanni Rannikko
Phil Simonet
Irma Vijn
Tjark de Vries
Stefan Jorritsma
Mark Munsters
Peter
Maaike Braat

Team 5 has officially flown off the mountain and safely arrived in Talkeetna, Alaska as of Tuesday (June 14th) evening. AAI lead guide Andrew Yasso called this evening to confirm the entire team had safely landed back in Talkeetna and everyone was already back at their hotel rooms and getting cleaned up after their successful climb.

Congratulations to Team 5 for completing their Denali climb!




2016 Denali West Buttrss Team 7 (June 13 - July 3) Dispatch 1

June 14, 2016

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Jeremy Devine

Climbers:

Steve Jacobs
Teija Sirko
Alan Millard
Mike Snelling
James Black

AAI Lead Guide Andy Stephen sent a message letting us know that 2016 Denali Team 7 successfully flew onto the mountain yesterday and the team had safely arrived at Camp 1 (7,800ft) by yesterday night. Congratulations to Team 7 for beginning their adventure up the mountain!


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 5 (May 30 - June 19) Dispatch 12

June  13, 2016

Guides:

Andrew Yasso
Zach Lovell
Will Gordon

Climbers:

Rob Parker
Sanni Rannikko
Phil Simonet
Irma Vijn
Tjark de Vries
Stefan Jorritsma
Mark Munsters
Peter
Maaike Braat

AAI lead guide Andrew Yasso called last night. Team 5 had made it back down to Camp 3 by yesterday evening. They were resting briefly, fueling up, and prepping themselves for the long trek back town to Base Camp.


Due to the encroaching weather, Team 5 had decided to move through the night so they could make it down the mountain faster and hopefully fly off later today or tomorrow (before the weather moves in and prevents them from leaving). We wish them safe travels down the mountain and hope to hear of their safe return to Talketna shortly.



Monday, June 13, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 6 (June 6 - 26) Dispatch 5

June 13, 2016

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Jim Mediatore
Angela Henderson

Climbers:

Gerard Hackett
Jeb Burchenal
Michael Henry
Timo Smuts
Cyprian Z
John Carswell
Hideyasu Nishi

AAI guide Angela Henderson called in earlier to report that Team 6 has successfully made it to Camp 2 (around 10,000ft). The team is making excellent progress and making a fast pace up the mountain.

Earlier today Team 6 made their cache near Windy Corner (about 13,700ft). All is looking well for Team 6 to make their approach to Camp 3 (14,300ft) hopefully tomorrow (Tuesday, 6/14/16).


We are looking forward to hearing the progress of Team 6, soon!

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 4 (May 23 - June 12) - Dispatch 10

June 13, 2016

Guides:

Higinio "Quino" Gonzalez
Jared Drapala
Justin Moynihan

Climbers:

Leah Jay
Than Juang
Tilak Ramaprakash
William Martin
Tyrone Smith
Jan Grothe
Dan Brochu
Mike Tucker
Duncan Marsh

AAI lead guide Higinio "Quino" Gonzalez called in today to provide a recap of Team 4's experiences on Denali. As everyone made it back to Talkeetna last week, most of the climbers have since headed back home. However, a few members of Team 4 are enjoying their final days in Alaska.

Overall the team had an excellent trip and learned a lot about themselves through this incredible opportunity. Regardless of the team not summitting, everyone had a wonderful time and created lasting memories.


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 5 (May 30 - June 19) Dispatch 11

June 12, 2016

Guides:

Andrew Yasso
Zach Lovell
Will Gordon

Climbers:

Rob Parker
Sanni Rannikko
Phil Simonet
Irma Vijn
Tjark de Vries
Stefan Jorritsma
Mark Munsters
Peter
Maaike Braat

AAI lead guide Andrew Yasso called late Friday (6/10) evening to let us know the team had a weather window opening up over the next couple days and Team 5 was planning to push for High Camp on Saturday and attempt to make for their summit bid.


On Saturday (6/11) Team 5 lucked out with some partly cloudy weather and minor snow flurries, so they made a strong push up to High Camp (17,200ft). They left mid-morning, arriving at High Camp around 5 o'clock. The team enjoyed a brief rest at High Camp, eating and rehydrating while planning their summit bid for Sunday (weather permitting).

Earlier this morning (6/12), Team 5 decided to make the push toward the summit. The weather was clear with high winds further up the mountain.

TEAM 5 SUMMITTED DENALI TODAY (June 12, 2016 at 7:15p.m. Alaska time)!!! Congratulations Team 5! We're looking forward to hearing all about it, soon!


Friday, June 10, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 5 (May 30 - June 19) Dispatch 10

June 9, 2016

Guides:

Andrew Yasso
Zach Lovell
Will Gordon

Climbers:

Rob Parker
Sanni Rannikko
Phil Simonet
Irma Vijn
Tjark de Vries
Stefan Jorritsma
Mark Munsters
Peter
Maaike Braat

AAI lead guide Andrew Yasso called last night to let us know that Team 5 is still up at Camp 3 and doing well.

They are looking forward to potentially making a cache above the fixed lines tomorrow (Friday), as their weather is looking promising. Hopefully this will put them in a good position to move further up the mountain in the coming days!


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 6 (June 6 - 26) Dispatch 4


June 10, 2016

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Jim Mediatore
Angela Henderson

Climbers:

Gerard Hackett
Jeb Burchenal
Michael Henry
Timo Smuts
Cyprian Z
John Carswell
Hideyasu Nishi

Paul called in with a brief dispatch today as they were having trouble getting a good connection.  He said they were all at camp one and trying to get organized to continue their climbing and acclimatization.  They've had light winds and a little bit of snow, but pleasant overall and the team is excited about the climb ahead of them.

Wednesday, June 8, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 5 (May 30 - June 19) Dispatch 9

June 8, 2016

Guides:

Andrew Yasso
Zach Lovell
Will Gordon

Climbers:

Rob Parker
Sanni Rannikko
Phil Simonet
Irma Vijn
Tjark de Vries
Stefan Jorritsma
Mark Munsters
Peter
Maaike Braat

AAI lead guide Andrew Yasso called in this evening to report on Team 5 up at Camp 3 (14,200ft) on Denali.

The team used today to back-carry down the mountain and picked up their cache from 13,700ft, and to fortify their camp. They also had some excellent food throughout the day, including a "Thanksgiving replica" dinner.



Tomorrow (Thursday) they plan to practice on the fixed-lines in preparation for hopefully making their cache on Friday. We're looking forward to hearing more from Team 5 tomorrow!



2016 Denali West Buttress Team 6 (June 6 - 26) Dispatch 3

June 8, 2016

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Jim Mediatore
Angela Henderson

Climbers:

Gerard Hackett
Jeb Burchenal
Michael Henry
Timo Smuts
Cyprian Z
John Carswell
Hideyasu Nishi



AAI guide Angela Henderson called in this evening. Team 6 successfully arrived at Camp 1 (7,800ft) earlier today!

The team move really well and fast and had excellent snow conditions. They are resting up for the evening and looking forward to making a cache further up the mountain tomorrow.


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 5 (May 30 - June 19) Dispatch 8

June 7, 2016

Guides:

Andrew Yasso
Zach Lovell
Will Gordon

Climbers:

Rob Parker
Sanni Rannikko
Phil Simonet
Irma Vijn
Tjark de Vries
Stefan Jorritsma
Mark Munsters
Peter
Maaike Braat

AAI lead guide Andrew Yasso let us know that Team 5 successfully made it up to Camp 3 (14,000ft)!

Team 5 had a beautiful day with excellent weather allowing them to soak up the view of the entire Denali National Park.

The team worked really had throughout the day making their way up to camp and getting settled in. Everyone is feeling really well and looking forward to relaxing after their long day.


Tuesday, June 7, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 6 (June 6 - 26) Dispatch 2

June 7, 2016

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Jim Mediatore
Angela Henderson

Climbers:

Gerard Hackett
Jeb Burchenal
Michael Henry
Timo Smuts
Cyprian Z
John Carswell
Hideyasu Nishi

AAI lead guide Paul Ivaska called in this evening to update us on the progression of Team 6. After a slight weather delay yesterday, Team 6 flew onto the mountain this morning!

They spent the day at Base Camp on Denali, going through gear and prepping for their move up the Kahiltna Glacier to Camp 1 (7,800ft) early tomorrow morning. We're looking forward to hearing more from Team 6 tomorrow!



Monday, June 6, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 4 (May 23 - June 12) - Dispatch 9

June 6, 2016

Guides:

Higinio "Quino" Gonzalez
Jared Drapala
Justin Moynihan

Climbers:

Leah Jay
Than Juang
Tilak Ramaprakash
William Martin
Tyrone Smith
Jan Grothe
Dan Brochu
Mike Tucker
Duncan Marsh

AAI lead guide Higinio "Quino" Gonzalez called in today to report Team 4 was  unfortunately still stuck at Camp 3, due to weather.

The plan for tomorrow is to move up to Camp 4, weather permitting. A high-pressure weather system is expected to move in, so they are unsure if the weather will allow them to move farther up he mountain.

Everyone is doing laundry and has high hopes for a big day tomorrow. We're looking forward to
hearing from them again soon.

Everyone send some good weather vibes to Team 4 in the hopes they will be permitted to move further up the mountain!



2016 Denali West Buttress Team 6 (June 6 - 26) Dispatch 1

June 6, 2016

Guides:

Paul Ivaska
Jim Mediatore
Angela Henderson

Climbers:

Gerard Hackett
Jeb Burchenal
Michael Henry
Timo Smuts
Cyprian Z
John Carswell
Hideyasu Nishi

AAI guide Angela Henderson called in earlier today with the first dispatch for Team 6.

Team 6 drove into Talkeetna earlier today, hoping to get a chance to fly onto the mountain today,though the weather looked uncertain throughout the day. Unfortunately a weather window did not open up, so the team is in Talkeetna for the evening and hopeful of flying on the mountain tomorrow.

We're looking forward to hearing from Team 6 from the mountain, soon!


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 5 (May 30 - June 19) Dispatch 7

June 6, 2016

Guides:

Andrew Yasso
Zach Lovell
Will Gordon

Climbers:

Rob Parker
Sanni Rannikko
Phil Simonet
Irma Vijn
Tjark de Vries
Stefan Jorritsma
Mark Munsters
Peter
Maaike Braat

AAI lead guide Andrew Yasso called in this evening. As anticipated, Team 5 remained at Camp 2 today due to fresh snowfall and unsafe weather conditions. They used today as a rest day, catching up on much needed rest after the long haul to make their cache yesterday.




The team had a late start to the day, sleeping in and eating some great food throughout the day. The sun made a brief appearance, allowing the team to charge some equipment before working on some camp improvements.

The plan for tomorrow will be to move up to Camp 3, weather permitting. Everyone is doing really well and say hello to friends and family back home.


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 4 (May 23 - June 12) - 8

June 5, 2016

Guides:

Higinio "Quino" Gonzalez
Jared Drapala
Justin Moynihan

Climbers:

Leah Jay
Than Juang
Tilak Ramaprakash
William Martin
Tyrone Smith
Jan Grothe
Dan Brochu
Mike Tucker
Duncan Marsh

AAI lead guide Higinio "Quino" Gonzalez called in today to report Team 4 was still at Camp 3. Unfortunately, they were unable to move up the mountain to Camp 4 due to heavy snow fall. The weather conditions changed rapidly throughout the day, making it unsafe for the team to move to Camp 4.


Hopefully a wether window will open up soon so Team 4 can make their way further up the mountain.

Sunday, June 5, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 5 (May 30 - June 19) Dispatch 6

June 5, 2016

Guides:

Andrew Yasso
Zach Lovell
Will Gordon

Climbers:

Rob Parker
Sanni Rannikko
Phil Simonet
Irma Vijn
Tjark de Vries
Stefan Jorritsma
Mark Munsters
Peter
Maaike Braat

AAI lead guide Andrew Yasso called in earlier today from Camp 2. Team 5 successfully cached their gear earlier in the day at 13,500ft, despite the weather conditions and fresh snow. Everyone did great throughout the day.

Assuming the weather continues, Team 5 is planning to take a weather day tomorrow at Camp 2 and avoid some potential hazards from all the fresh snow.



Saturday, June 4, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 4 (May 23 - June 12) - Dispatch 7

Guides:

Higinio "Quino" Gonzalez
Jared Drapala
Justin Moynihan

Climbers:

Leah Jay
Than Juang
Tilak Ramaprakash
William Martin
Tyrone Smith
Jan Grothe
Dan Brochu
Mike Tucker
Duncan Marsh

Team 4 Lead guide Higinio "Quino" Gonzalez called in today to let us that the group will be looking to move to Camp 4 (High Camp 17,300ft). The weather is looking favorable for a summit attempt in the next few days.

The group is doing well and is exciting about moving to the upper part of the mountain!


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 5 (May 30 - June 19) Dispatch 5

Guides:

Andrew Yasso
Zach Lovell
Will Gordon

Climbers:

Rob Parker
Sanni Rannikko
Phil Simonet
Irma Vijn
Tjark de Vries
Stefan Jorritsma
Mark Munsters
Peter
Maaike Braat

Team 5 has safely and successfully moved to Camp 2 (11,200ft).

Everyone did well but are all a little "outa whack" from the night traveling schedule, They had a delicious brunch and will begin thinking about caching at Windy Corner and moving to Camp 3.





2016 Denali West Buttress Team 5 (May 30 - June 19) Dispatch 4

Guides:

Andrew Yasso
Zach Lovell
Will Gordon

Climbers:

Rob Parker
Sanni Rannikko
Phil Simonet
Irma Vijn
Tjark de Vries
Stefan Jorritsma
Mark Munsters
Peter
Maaike Braat

Lead Guide Andrew Yasso called in this morning.

Team 5 has been sitting in whiteout conditions and 12" of new snow at Camp 1. Everyone is doing well with plenty of fuel and food. They have made all their preparations to move up and place a cache as soon as the weather breaks.





Friday, June 3, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Expedition Team 3 (May 16 - June 5) Summit!

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Ian Mceleney
Michael Wachs

Climbers:

Jeremy Cote
Penelope Walker
Julie Bedford
Barry Raferty
Freddie Walker
Daniel Goldstein
Rory McHugh
David Atkinson
Jonathan Dell Guidry

Wanted to let you know Team 3 successfully summited yesterday!

The team is moving down from High Camp (17,300ft) to Camp 3 (14,200ft). The team will stay the night there and then head to the airstrip tomorrow. Congrats to everyone on Team 3. Look out Talkeetna!

Thursday, June 2, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 5 (May 30 - June 19) Dispatch 3

Guides:

Andrew Yasso
Zach Lovell
Will Gordon

Climbers:

Rob Parker
Sanni Rannikko
Phil Simonet
Irma Vijn
Tjark de Vries
Stefan Jorritsma
Mark Munsters
Peter
Maaike Braat

Lead Guide Andrew Yasso called in this morning.

Team 5 will make a cache near Camp 2, around 10,000ft before making their way up



2016 Denali West Buttress Team 3 (May 16 - June 5) Summit Attempt

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Ian Mceleney
Michael Wachs

Climbers:

Jeremy Cote
Penelope Walker
Julie Bedford
Barry Raferty
Freddie Walker
Daniel Goldstein
Rory McHugh
David Atkinson
Jonathan Dell Guidry

Just spoke with lead guide Andy Stephen. Team 3 is currently making a summit attempt!

Wish them all safe travels and good luck.


Wednesday, June 1, 2016

2016 Denali West Buttress Team 4 (May 23 - June 12) Dispatch 6

Guides:

Higinio "Quino" Gonzalez
Jared Drapala
Justin Moynihan

Climbers:

Leah Jay
Than Juang
Tilak Ramaprakash
William Martin
Tyrone Smith
Jan Grothe
Dan Brochu
Mike Tucker
Duncan Marsh

Lead guide Higinio Gonzalez called this morning to inform everyone out there that Team is tucked in at Camp 3 (14,200ft).

The weather is fair but a storm is predicted to move in soon.

The team is enjoying a well earned rest day and eating so they can begin looking at caching above the fixed lines.


2016 Denali West Buttress Team 5 (May 30 - June 19) Dispatch 2

Guides:

Andrew Yasso
Zach Lovell
Will Gordon

Climbers:

Rob Parker
Sanni Rannikko
Phil Simonet
Irma Vijn
Tjark de Vries
Stefan Jorritsma
Mark Munsters
Peter
Maaike Braat

Lead guide Andrew Yasso called in at 3:45am this morning.

Team 5 has made it to Camp 1 (7,800ft) at the base of Ski Hill. The team is moving by a night schedule for safety on the lower glacier.

Everyone did well and is looking forward to moving up!





2016 Denali West Buttress Team 3 (May 16 - June 5) Dispatch 12 from May 31

Guides:

Andy Stephen
Ian Mceleney
Michael Wachs

Climbers:

Jeremy Cote
Penelope Walker
Julie Bedford
Barry Raferty
Freddie Walker
Daniel Goldstein
Rory McHugh
David Atkinson
Jonathan Dell Guidry

AAI guide Ian Mceleney called in last night to let us know Team has made it to High Camp (17,300ft)!

The group did very well moving through some technical and exposed terrain on the ridge and everyone is actually feeling pretty well despite being so high in the air. 


It is not certain when Team 3 will make a summit attempt but the weather is looking good.