Bugaboos Climbing 7/30 - 8/7 - Dispatch #4

Guide: Andrew Yasso

Climber: John Holden Gibson III

Andrew called at 7:23 pm PST on Aug. 4th with the following dispatch: It's Andrew calling as I sit outside the tent right now with a belly full of delicious vegetables, onions, and couscous. I’m looking at the golden light setting on all the granite spires around me. The sun’s behind Bugaboo spire right now but it’s casting a bit of sun on crescent and east coast spires.

We had an awesome day today we climbed Snowpatch Spire to the summit via the Buckingham Route: The Enjoyable Way. That’s actually the name. It was quite enjoyable. We had the route to ourselves all day and we were in the shade which was quite nice. The sun can be brutal up there. But then we were in the sun for the Rappels which was kind of nice cause we had all the climbing out of the way. Man that route really sticks ropes. Hard to not get a rope caught on that one. We actually found a rope on route. I thought maybe it was a fixed rope but it was a full 60 meter rope so we coiled it up and.... (interference and call dropped)


(after a couple tries he got through again)


Tomorrow we’re climbing McTech Arete on Crescent Spire, it’s a 5.10 route, we’re going to push ourselves a little bit. It’s a shorter route but harder climbing and Holden really wants to give it a go. It’s a three star route too, they only go to three stars here so that’s as good as it gets. It should be stellar Bugaboo classic. After that we’re gonna re-assess and see about doing another route or maybe we’ll bail and head to Squamish if the weather deteriorates.