Ecuador High Altitude Expedition and Antisana/Illiniza Expedition: Final Dispatch

Ecuador High Altitude Expedition and Antisana/Illiniza Expedition: 

Dec 17-31, 2010
High Altitude Expedition climbers: Tim Turay, Kat Lange, Stuart Lowden, Tamsin Ainscow, Ahmad Baasiri, John Davis, and Ruth Hartmann.

Illiniza / Antisana Expedition climbers: Ty Speer and Natalie Garner.

Lead Guides: Pepe Landazuri and Henry Moya

December 31, 2010. Pepe called today at 6:00pm Ecuador and US Eastern time.

After the long challenge of Chimborazo, everyone was pretty tired yesterday, but we still had the energy to do some fun things.   For example, Ruth went for a walk around the town, Tim went biking, and I walked around (and ate) with Ty, Tamsin, and Scott.  We're eating a lot right now - rebuilding of course!

Today we arrived to Quito around 11 o’clock.  By noon they were beginning to close many of the streets for the New Years Eve festivities.  Tonight there is going to be a lot going on in Quito and all of Ecuador's cities.  It's really a fun time for people.  There will tons of people in the street!  There is also a big competition with masks, costumes, and paper mache effigies, as well as games for kids and adults.  Every few blocks there will be music:  live bands playing different styles of music.  Some of our climbers will be going home pretty early tomorrow and won't be staying up very late, but some of us will be out wandering around people watching and checking out all the activities.   It's a great atmosphere so it will be a lot of fun.

I think everyone had a really good trip, and I’m sad to see the group go.  It’s been a lot of fun for me and the rest of the guides have so many people come together for these climbs.  There was great group spirit and we really enjoyed trying our best together on each of these ascents.  So now we'll have a little more visiting, some New Year's fun, and then it will be time to say good bye.  I hope we can climb together again in the future.

Everyone in the group wants to send an enthusiastic "'Happy New Year' to family and friends back home.

Happy New Year everyone!"

  

Ecuador High Altitude Expedition and Antisana/Illiniza Expedition: Dispatch 11

Ecuador High Altitude Expedition and Antisana/Illiniza Expedition: 

Dec 17-31, 2010
High Altitude Expedition climbers: Tim Turay, Kat Lange, Stuart Lowden, Tamsin Ainscow, Ahmad Baasiri, John Davis, and Ruth Hartmann.


Illiniza / Antisana Expedition climbers: Ty Speer and Natalie Garner.

Lead Guides: Pepe Landazuri and Henry Moya

December 30, 2010. Pepe called today at 9:40pm Ecuador and US Eastern time.

We spoke to Pepe directly a few minutes ago, but we were unable to maintain the connection with him, so we received very limited information tonight.

"Hello!  All is well with us in Banos!  [right and below] We had a good rest last night and a good day here today.  Everyone just had dinner, and a few few are having a beer now, but everyone is heading to bed or soon will be.  We're getting up at 6:00am and leaving at 7:00 because we need to be back in Quito before noon when a lot of the streets close – including the one in front of our hotel – to begin New Year's Eve celebrations.  

There will be a lot of parading around, people wearing masks, and displaying effigies supposed to embody the old year that is about to end.  In the evening they will burn the many effigies in the streets, symbolically getting rid of the old year so the new year can be welcomed in.  It will be slightly crazy and a lot of fun.  There should be some good music on the street as well .  .  ."

Editor's note:  Here are two videos of New Year's Eve in Quito from the last few years.  They amateur videos, but they capture some of the look and flavor of the celebration of the outgoing year.  You can fast forward through parts of them if you want to check them out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSBFP90rSZc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tB4LgjK-uvc

Ecuador High Altitude Expedition and Antisana/Illiniza Expedition: Dispatch 10

Ecuador High Altitude Expedition and Antisana/Illiniza Expedition: 

Dec 17-31, 2010
High Altitude Expedition climbers: Tim Turay, Kat Lange, Stuart Lowden, Tamsin Ainscow, Ahmad Baasiri, John Davis, and Ruth Hartmann.


Illiniza / Antisana Expedition climbers: Ty Speer and Natalie Garner.

Lead Guides: Pepe Landazuri and Henry Moya

December 29, 2010. Pepe called today at 8:00 AM Ecuador and US Eastern time.

"This is Pepe calling from Chimborazo. I’m calling again from 5,000 meters, and it’s still early morning here. We tried last night and into the early morning hours today to summit Chimborazo. 


We had six rope teams, and two of them got to a little over 6,100 meters, just two hundred meters below the summit, but the winds were extremely high and there was wind loading of snow in some areas up high, and those areas didn't have the stability that we were looking for.  The two teams that reached the high point were Ruth with Ramero, and Ty and Natalie with Henry. 

Everyone is back at the refuge just now, and we’re going to have a break for about an hour.  Time for a little rest, food, and a lot to drink!  After that, we’re going to leave the mountain and head down to the town of Banos for the hot springs there.  Banos is on one of the routes to the Amazon, and it's low enough to have a tropical feel with lots of flowers and colorful birds, so that will be a nice contrast to the mountains where we have been spending our time.  And the hot springs are calling us!  


Even though no one summited Chimborazo, everyone’s happy and satisfied that we made a good effort.  All these guys really did a great job on the climb.  I’m very proud of each of these rope teams for their focus and all their hard work.  The really made an excellent attempt in very cold conditions.  I’ll call again tomorrow and let you know how our rest and relaxation is going.  We are committed to doing a great job with that too!   OK, so long for today!"

[Banos]

Ecuador High Altitude Holiday Expedition: Dispatch 9 and Antisana/Illiniza Expedition: Dispatch 3:

Ecuador High Altitude Expedition and Antisana/Illiniza Expedition: 

Dec 17-31, 2010
High Altitude Expedition climbers: Tim Turay, Kat Lange, Stuart Lowden, Tamsin Ainscow, Ahmad Baasiri, John Davis, and Ruth Hartmann.


Illiniza / Antisana Expedition climbers: Ty Speer and Natalie Garner.

Lead Guides: Pepe Landazuri and Henry Moya

December 28, 2010. Pepe called today at 4:30 pm Ecuador and US Eastern time.

"Hello!  It's Pepe!  We’re calling from 5,000 meters [16,405 feet] on Chimborazo right now.  Tonight is the big night – our whole party is going to try to reach Chimborazo's 6310- meter [20,703-foot] summit!

With our two AAI teams now united [the High Altitude Expedition and Antisana / Illiniza Expedition],  we have a grand total of nine climbers and six mountain guides.  Everyone is doing really well.  Our team did absolutely a great job on Cotopaxi and Henry's team members were outstanding on Antisana.  With such a strong combined team, we have a great chance to summit.  Everyone is feeling really strong and totally ready for this ascent.  The acclimatization process has gone perfectly, and everyone is very fit and ready.  


We plan to wake up at ten o’clock, and try to be out and climbing by 11 pm.  We talked to another party that came down from the mountain today.  They got to about 6,000 meters [19.690 feet] but had to turn around because of the fresh snow.  Right now, it’s completely clear, and I can see the part of the climb that is most difficult. The ridge looks a little icy, so that will slow us down a little, but basically the mountain looks in very good shape.  

Right now, everyone is having a big meal.  I don’t want to pull them away to talk on the telephone because I want them to be well fed and rested for the big night.  Tomorrow we’ll be back down to Banos, so we can exchange more personal messages then.  We'll obviously be sure to call and let you know how our climb went.


We're excited and ready to go.  Wish us luck!"

Illiniza / Antisana Expedition: Dispatch 2

Illiniza / Antisana Expedition: 

Dec 17-31, 2010

Climbers: Natalie Garner, Ty Speer

Lead Guide: Henry Moya

Henry called with this update at 4:15 pm Ecuador and US Eastern time:

"Hello, this is Henry calling to give you an update on our trip.   We just got back down from our ascent of Antisana, and today we are having a relaxing time, visiting a market, eating, and doing more relaxing.  The weather was challenging on Antisana and very unusual for this time of year.  It was cloudy, foggy, and windy. 


In the whiteout, I used my altimeter a lot, but in some familiar areas it did not seem to give me the right readings.  Regardless, we found our route just fine and made it to the false summit and to within probably 30 meters of the true summit.  But the wind and visibility made it very difficult especially near the summit, and we decided to stop at that point.  I feel like Natalie and Ty certainly climbed the mountain successfully.  And it was in challenging conditions.  Such low visibility!  Anyway, we made a good decision and headed down, and the descent went just fine.   Natalie and Ty did a good job with their equipment, so we stayed comfortable enough despite the conditions.  Remember the saying, "there's no bad days in the mountains, just bad equipment."  Well we had a good day despite everything!  These guys were great.

Tomorrow we are going to start our last climb, Chimborazo. We’re going to meet up mid-day at the refuge with Pepe’s group, and we are looking forward to seeing all of the climbers in that group.  We were with them at the beginning of our trip and really enjoyed them a lot.  


We are looking forward to Chimborazo.  It's a big, beautiful mountain and hopefully weather and conditions will cooperate to give a chance to make another good climb together.  


We're doing very well and send a warm hello to family and friends at home.  I'll call you in a couple of days to let you know about our progress.  Bye for now."


[below the mountain on foggy days and on better days]

Ecuador High Altitude Holiday Expedition: Dispatch 8

Ecuador High Altitude Expedition: 

Dec 17-31, 2010
Climbers: Tim Turay, Kat Lange, Stuart Lowden, Tamsin Ainscow, Ahmad Baasiri, John Davis, and Ruth Hartmann.

Lead Guide: Pepe Landazuri

December 27, 2010

"Hello! This is Pepe calling from the base of Chimborazo at 3,300 meters.  We are having an easy day,and everyone is enjoying that after our adventure and success on Cotopaxi  which made everybody pretty darn tired. 


We plan to join the group from Antisana tomorrow around mid-day.  With Ty, Natalie, and AAI guide Henry Moya, we will have a party of ten!  I talked to Henry and understand that they came within just a few meters of the summit of Antisana.  They were having the same bad weather that we had but also did a tremendous job on their climb!   


The weather has improved.  Right now its sunny, and we can see the mountain.  But I can feel that the weather will change soon. Tomorrow to begin our climb we will move to the hut at the base of the mountain.  Tomorrow is going to be a busy day! Everyone is doing well.

Ruth wants to say hello:

'Eveything is great here. I really wanted to take a moment today and thank our guides. They have been incredible.  It’s very safe and very fun with them.  Ramerio has been carrying my camera and taking great pictures the whole time.  Pepe is cooking some good vegetarian meals for me, too.  I’m so proud and happy right now.  Everything has exceeded my expectations already.

Pepe will call you tomorrow! Wish us luck!' "

 

Ecuador High Altitude Holiday Expedition: Dispatch 7

Ecuador High Altitude Expedition: 

Dec 17-31, 2010
Climbers: Tim Turay, Kat Lange, Stuart Lowden, Tamsin Ainscow, Ahmad Baasiri, John Davis, and Ruth Hartmann.

Lead Guide: Pepe Landazuri

December 26, 2010

The team summited this morning at 6:34am Ecuador and Eastern US time in a white out and high winds.   Everyone is fine and excited to be on the summit, though extremely tired and covered with frost.  The high winds made the recording extremely difficult to decipher.  We will have more details after working on this more at about 6:30 Eastern time.

Back with more info at 7:50pm Eastern time:


We had the Institute's best two cryptographers work on this recording, and they found the following.  Parts of the recording were totally obscured because of the sound of the wind passing over the satellite telephone's microphone.  


"Good morning friends and family at home or wherever [you are.  We are] happy to tell you that we are calling from the summit [of Cotopaxi.  We just arrived here at] 6:24am.  The climbers are getting out a few quick snacks while [I call you with our news. It is] very cold and very windy up here on the summit.  

[We left this morning at midnight] so we did it in six and a half hours.  That is good time under any conditions and [especially today in such difficult conditions it is] excellent time.  All five climbers made it with [the three of us guides.  They all did ] a great job.  As the two of them planned, Stuart and Kat [are not with us but they are here] in spirit.  We want them with us on Chimborazo and that is the plan.  So we [are congratulating Tim,] Tamsin, Ahmad, Ruth, and John.  This is so great!

It's really windy.  Here .  .  .

'Hi this is Ruth.  It's windy.  [We are] exhausted today.  I’m really tired, but we made it.  We’re stuck in a whiteout and high winds, but we are on top.  [This is one] of the hardest [things I have] done.  We all have frost on [our clothes.  Everyone] is happy, cheerful as ever, [but we're hoping that the] sun will come [out and we get some ] warmth on [the way down.]

[Then a male climber came on and we were able to get very little our of the recording:]

'Merry Christmas.  [a, b, and c I am] thinking about you.' " 


The group should have gotten back to the hut by 10:30am, where they would have had an early lunch and a little rest before packing up and making the short descent from the hut the the AAI vehicle.  They then would have driven out of the national park and traveled south a little on the Pan American Highway to reach the road to Hacienda la Cienaga (below), where they will be eating very well and spending the night in comfort.  


At the hacienda they will meet guide Henry Moyer and climbers Natalie Garner and Ty Speer who will be coming off of Antisana today.  

Ecuador High Altitude Holiday Expedition: Dispatch 6

Ecuador High Altitude Expedition: 

Dec 17-31, 2010
Climbers: Tim Turay, Kat Lange, Stuart Lowden, Tamsin Ainscow, Ahmad Baasiri, John Davis, and Ruth Hartmann.

Lead Guide: Pepe Landazuri


December 25, 2010

Pepe called on Christmas evening from the Jose Ribas Hut on Cotopaxi with the following update:

Hello and Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays from the team to everyone.

Yesterday we went to the lodge of Tambopaxi in Cotopaxi National Park.  It was a good rest day for us. [right]

Today we drove to the end of the road on the side of Cotopaxi and made the 50 minute backpack with all our gear to the hut.  Everyone is doing well, and we are looking forward to the climb of Cotopaxi.  Kat twisted her ankle a little on Cayambe,  It's doing pretty well, but she decided to not try for Cotopaxi and instead let the ankle rest more so she is ready for Chimborazo.  So she is staying at Tambopaxi Lodge tonight.  [At this point in the message there was some information about Stuart not climbing, but we couldn't understand the detail of the explanation.]

So tonight we will again get up at about 11:00pm and start the climb at midnight.  The weather is pretty good, so we are excited and optimistic about our chances to climb this big mountain.  The team is really ready to go.

[At this point we believe Pepe said he would try to call from the summit on Sunday morning, and after that the transmission was cut off.] [Tampopaxi below left, Jose Ribas hut right}

Ecuador High Altitude Holiday Expedition: Dispatch 5

Ecuador High Altitude Expedition: 

Dec 17-31, 2010
Climbers: Tim Turay, Kat Lange, Stuart Lowden, Tamsin Ainscow, Ahmad Baasiri, John Davis, and Ruth Hartmann.

Lead Guide: Pepe Landazuri


Pepe called with this great news:

Hello! Good morning. This is Pepe calling from the summit of Cayembe. We are above the clouds enjoying the view. We arrived at 6:30 in the morning!  We left at midnight, so we made great time.  [Antisana to the south of Cayambe poking above the clouds]


[because of poor transmission quality, it was hard to tell if everyone summited; it sounded like everyone did, with one team descending before the others, but the transcriber is not certain]

Ruth wants to get on the phone:

'We just made it to the summit. I almost cried when I made it, but I was laughing hysterically!  It is absolutely beautiful.  We can see all the volcanoes peaking above the clouds that surround us.  I am so happy I made it to the summit.  Really exciting!  We’re really tired and can’t wait to go down now.  Hello to my friends and family.  I miss everybody.  I’m going to come back with lots of pictures and stories. I’m really, really, happy right now.'

John wants to leave a message:

Hello, this is John!  Sending my love to my friends and family.  Think of you ALWAYS.  We’re on the top of Cayambe, and it’s absolutely beautiful. It was a very hard but beautiful climb. We can see Antisana, Cotopaxi, and Chimborazo in the distance.  It's a fantastic day.  Now we’re looking forward to getting down and resting.

This is Pepe again, we’ll call again soon!!!"

[Afternoon clearing]

Ecuador High Altitude Holiday Expedition: Dispatch 4

Ecuador High Altitude Expedition: 

Dec 17-31, 2010
Climbers: Tim Turay, Kat Lange, Stuart Lowden, Tamsin Ainscow, Ahmad Baasiri, John Davis, and Ruth Hartmann.

Lead Guide: Pepe Landazuri
Pepe called at 9:30 pm Ecuador and US Eastern time with this update:

Note to readers:  Rob, Stephen  Mel and Katie each left a message for members of the team on the blog.  We want you to know that we read the messages to Pepe when he called so he could pass them on.


"Hello again from Cayambe!  We spent today on the glacier working on climbing and glacier travel skills.   I think everyone enjoyed the training.   The weather has been pretty good, so it was nice to be out on he ice.

We have some fresh snow, but it's getting colder, so we will try the climb tonight.  We'll get up at about 11pm and head up the mountain at midnight.

This is our second night in the hut."


The transmission was lost at that point.

Illiniza / Antisana Expedition: Dispatch 1

Illiniza / Antisana Expedition: 

Dec 17-31, 2010

Climbers: Natalie Garner, Ty Speer

Lead Guide: Henry Moya

Henry called with this update at 7:45 pm Ecuador and US Eastern time:

"Hello!  This is Henry calling with Ty and Natalie. Our small climbing party doing very well, and we are having a great time together.  We recently climbed Pasachoa, and you heard from Pepe and the other group about our climb with them on Gua Gua Pichincha.  Those were great warm=-ups and acclimatization hikes. 

We also climbed Illiniza North, though we didn't make it all the way because of conditions.  We were worreid about lightening, so we headed down before reaching the summit.  We did summit Illiniza South and that was great.  There was some nice stepp ice climbing on it and Natalie and Ty did a great job. Tomorrow is a rest day. We’re all going to head back to town to go to the markets.  [this photo by Kristen Risnes shows Illiniza Norte (left) and South]

We’re getting excited about climbing Antisana.  I’m actually going to call the other group and talk to Pepe about the weather conditions there.  They are on Cayambe right now, as you know, and that mountain has similar conditions to Antisana. Both peaks are on the eastern or the Amazon side of the double line of peaks that runs north to south in Ecuador.  I’ll call or email you all tomorrow with another update. Take care.

On the non-technical climb of Illiniza Norte.