Denali Team 3: May 23 - June 12, 2010
Guides: Angela Seidling, Alaina Robertson
Climbers: Paul Rose, Joan Clofent, Paul Watkins, Carol Masheter, Simon Boaz, Bob Sullivan
Monday, May 31, 8:37pm Pacific time
Lead Guide Angela Seidling called at 8:37pm and lef the following message:
Hello everyone. This is Angela calling for Team 3. I’m really sorry we didn’t get a dispatch out yesterday. We're on the 14,000-foot plateau now and happy to be here. Yesterday we did a back carry from 13,500, and when we got back here we worked on our campsite to improve its security in case the weather gets worse. We followed that with some practice on . . . .
[the transmission was interrupted at this point]
.
Monday, May 31, 2010
Bolivia Dispatch 2: Trek, Alpine Skills Training, & High Altitude Expedition
Bolivia Trek and Climbing Program May 29 – June 19, 2010
Guides: Danny Uhlmann, Alasdair Turner, and Juan Churra
Climbers: Danny Griffith (Bellingham, WA), Alfred Kwok (Claremont, CA), Diccon Westworth (Sacramento, CA), Jim Bonadonna (Poughkeepsie, NY), Raymond Gregory (Marquette, MI), Nancy Burke (Dallas, TX), and Margen Burke-Karr (Missouri City, TX),
Danny called by Satellite phone at 4:02pm Pacific time, 7:02 pm Bolivia time with the following news:
“We are now at Camp #1 on the Trans Condoriri trek, and the sun has set. We enjoyed views of glaciers up by Condoriri but not the Condoriri peaks themselves. We’re at about 13,800 feet here, and today our high point was 15,200 feet. Everyone is adjusting well to the altitude and feeling fine.
We use llamas for most parts of this program, but on this trip we had burros carry the loads. There’s currently a herd of llamas next to camp, and my fellow guide Alasdair and his wife Susan are out visiting with them and photographing them. Speaking of local fauna, we saw a lot of different kinds of birds today. They are really varied in color and size.
We also saw lizards and tiny tiny frogs. While trekking we’ve moved past quite a number of old stone-domed homes with thatched roofs.
We haven’t seen any one else on the trail or at camp We seem to have the mountains to ourselves.
Tomorrow we’ll go up and over a should of a mountain and then descend to camp by a lake.
It was an adventure getting out of La Paz. Everytime we drive up to the town of El Alto, we seem to do it by a different route. El Alto is on the altiplano perched at the lip of the basin that La Paz fills. There must be 20 different routes with as many opinions onwhcih one is the very best.
People in our program are doing great with the altitude. We’ll check everyone with the pulse oximeter again soon.
Just so you know, I interrupted our tea hour before dinner to make this call. I didn’t want to take a chance on missing you today. We always have tea time for about an hour before dinner. It’s a good time to enjoy warm drinks, look back over the day, and discuss what’s coming next.
Well, it’s time to do the pulse oximeter readings and then move onto dinner. We’ll give you another update soon."
NOTE: For some photos from the first few days in La Paz, see Alasdair's blog at: http://alasdairturner.blogspot.com/
.
Guides: Danny Uhlmann, Alasdair Turner, and Juan Churra
Climbers: Danny Griffith (Bellingham, WA), Alfred Kwok (Claremont, CA), Diccon Westworth (Sacramento, CA), Jim Bonadonna (Poughkeepsie, NY), Raymond Gregory (Marquette, MI), Nancy Burke (Dallas, TX), and Margen Burke-Karr (Missouri City, TX),
Danny called by Satellite phone at 4:02pm Pacific time, 7:02 pm Bolivia time with the following news:
“We are now at Camp #1 on the Trans Condoriri trek, and the sun has set. We enjoyed views of glaciers up by Condoriri but not the Condoriri peaks themselves. We’re at about 13,800 feet here, and today our high point was 15,200 feet. Everyone is adjusting well to the altitude and feeling fine.
We use llamas for most parts of this program, but on this trip we had burros carry the loads. There’s currently a herd of llamas next to camp, and my fellow guide Alasdair and his wife Susan are out visiting with them and photographing them. Speaking of local fauna, we saw a lot of different kinds of birds today. They are really varied in color and size.
We also saw lizards and tiny tiny frogs. While trekking we’ve moved past quite a number of old stone-domed homes with thatched roofs.
We haven’t seen any one else on the trail or at camp We seem to have the mountains to ourselves.
Tomorrow we’ll go up and over a should of a mountain and then descend to camp by a lake.
It was an adventure getting out of La Paz. Everytime we drive up to the town of El Alto, we seem to do it by a different route. El Alto is on the altiplano perched at the lip of the basin that La Paz fills. There must be 20 different routes with as many opinions onwhcih one is the very best.
People in our program are doing great with the altitude. We’ll check everyone with the pulse oximeter again soon.
Just so you know, I interrupted our tea hour before dinner to make this call. I didn’t want to take a chance on missing you today. We always have tea time for about an hour before dinner. It’s a good time to enjoy warm drinks, look back over the day, and discuss what’s coming next.
Well, it’s time to do the pulse oximeter readings and then move onto dinner. We’ll give you another update soon."
NOTE: For some photos from the first few days in La Paz, see Alasdair's blog at: http://alasdairturner.blogspot.com/
.
Bolivia Dispatch #1: Trek, Alpine Skills Training, & High Altitude Expedition
Guides: Danny Uhlmann, Alasdair Turner, and Juan Churra
Climbers: Danny Griffith (Bellingham, WA), Alfred Kwok (Claremont, CA), Diccon Westworth (Sacramento, CA), Jim Bonadonna (Poughkeepsie, NY), Raymond Gregory (Marquette, MI), Nancy Burke (Dallas, TX), and Margen Burke-Karr (Missouri City, TX),
Danny sent the following message by email on May 31 ay 12:15am Bolivia time.
This year's Bolivia expedition has begun. If there was any doubt of this truth, the constant honking of car horns, thousands upon thousands of short colorful people, and general fear of being run over at any moment, assures me that yes indeed, I am back home in La Paz.
La Paz is essentially a large whole in the ground filled with two million people. It has a unusual balance between chaos and order. It is the only city I've visited where I can walk to the same restaurant I've been to five times before and still manage to get lost. I have the utmost respect for the cab drivers here, and for the pedestrians as well. Even the numerous and endearing street dogs manage to know the rules about crossing streets.
The children of Bolivia are some of the most beautiful in the world. And yet people here are quite shy. Members of this June's expedition have trickled in over the past three days and finally we are all together. We've enjoyed tours through the city's labyrinthine calles (streets), which wind like a grass snake up the devilishly steep walls that hug La Paz.
It Americans would like a lesson in efficiency, perhaps La Paz would be a good place to take lessons. There is no public transport, instead minibuses rove around the city with a driver and a ten year old hanging out the sliding door yelling about the destinations and the price. The ultimate tests of one's skill at Spanish comprehension is to understand these kids as they yell while at speed. I have yet to pass that test.
Tonight we went out to Mongo's, one of my favorite local haunts for good food and drinks. Everyone is enjoying each other. Alasdair, Susan, and I went on a walk today, and they saw their first Bolivian llama which was dressed up in a costume. What they didn't realize is that for the next two weeks we'll be surrounded by much dirtier and work-hardened versions. But yes, llamas are somewhat irresistible, though I think whoever created them supplies a lot more wool than brains.
Tomorrow we depart at 0800 for the trek. We are doing an alternate trek because, in standard (and classic) Bolivian fashion, the Takesi route has been made impassable by landslide. So now we will trek overland to the Condoriri Valley and then come back to La Paz for showers, a few nights sleep, and a bunch of stoke for the next section of climbing.
Nos vemos,
Danny
.
Denali Team 2 - Dispatch #7
Denali Team 2: May 16 - June 5, 2010
Guides: Paul Ivaska, Chantel Astorga, Kevin Hogan
Climbers: John McQueston, Nick Pearce, Sarah Nelson, Roger Woolett, Simon James, Max Bouev, Jeff Marks, Alex Roetter, Mark Michelin
Guide Paul Ivaska called and left the following dispatch at 1:02pm Pacific time on Monday, May 31:
Good morning everyone! This is Paul calling from 14,000 feet. Everyone but Jon McQuestin and Kevin summited on May 29 at 2pm. We had good weather wind some wind some wind but not too bad. It was a great day and we are very happy that we were able to make it to the top.
Yesterday the 30th we came down to the 14,000-foot camp. Now we’re having a great breakfast, and soon will continue down the mountain with the hope of getting to base camp Tuesday morning, June 1st. [we missed a few sentences here because of interference] Everyone is in good spirits and in good shape and we’ll talk to you soon.”
.
Guides: Paul Ivaska, Chantel Astorga, Kevin Hogan
Climbers: John McQueston, Nick Pearce, Sarah Nelson, Roger Woolett, Simon James, Max Bouev, Jeff Marks, Alex Roetter, Mark Michelin
Guide Paul Ivaska called and left the following dispatch at 1:02pm Pacific time on Monday, May 31:
Good morning everyone! This is Paul calling from 14,000 feet. Everyone but Jon McQuestin and Kevin summited on May 29 at 2pm. We had good weather wind some wind some wind but not too bad. It was a great day and we are very happy that we were able to make it to the top.
Yesterday the 30th we came down to the 14,000-foot camp. Now we’re having a great breakfast, and soon will continue down the mountain with the hope of getting to base camp Tuesday morning, June 1st. [we missed a few sentences here because of interference] Everyone is in good spirits and in good shape and we’ll talk to you soon.”
.
Denali Team 4 – Dispatch #1
Denali Team 4: May 30 - June 19, 2010
Guides: Dylan Taylor, Jeremy Ellison, Tom Kirby
Climbers: Paul Hameister (Black Rock, Australia), Martin Perry (Melbourne, Australia), Tim Myall (Witney, England), Andy Sweet (San Marcos, California), Brian Plaugher (Guerneville, California), Jay Jackson (Reading, Pennsylvania), Dimitri Nichiporov (Bloomington, Indiana), Respicius Baitwa (Moshi, Tanzania), and Siggi Soleyjarson (Gardabae, Iceland).
Lead guide Dylan Taylor called and left the following dispatch at 11:12am Pacific time on Monday, May 31:
“This is Dylan calling from base camp. It’s Monday morning. Happy Memorial Day!
We got in here last night after some iffy weather and a little waiting prior to our flight time, but it improved and we able to get both flights in by 6 pm last night. Camp is very comfortable, and we have an especially nice kitchen dug out and set up. We’re having French toast for breakfast. On this expedition, we want to be serious about living well from the very beginning.
We’ll be making this a good skills. Soon we’ll be working on a review of prussiking, and a little later we’ll head Head up the glacier towards radio control tower buttress do some crevasse rescue exercises, learn how to pull sleds around efficiently, and do a few other tasks.
I have two messages to pass on:
From Jay, the message is: “Brother Ron, brother Martin”
From Brian the message is: “Love to Libby and everybody (exclamation point)
I’ll pass on more messages as we get them.
We’ll be back to camp early tonight for an early dinner and early bed time. We’ll get up at about 1am and after eating will head out to Camp 1 at 8000 feet. During this first part of the expedition when we’ll be on the lower Kahiltna Glacier, we’ll travel at night in order to get the firmest possible conditions.
We’re look forward to a great day. That’s the news for now! Back to you soon.”
.
Guides: Dylan Taylor, Jeremy Ellison, Tom Kirby
Climbers: Paul Hameister (Black Rock, Australia), Martin Perry (Melbourne, Australia), Tim Myall (Witney, England), Andy Sweet (San Marcos, California), Brian Plaugher (Guerneville, California), Jay Jackson (Reading, Pennsylvania), Dimitri Nichiporov (Bloomington, Indiana), Respicius Baitwa (Moshi, Tanzania), and Siggi Soleyjarson (Gardabae, Iceland).
Lead guide Dylan Taylor called and left the following dispatch at 11:12am Pacific time on Monday, May 31:
“This is Dylan calling from base camp. It’s Monday morning. Happy Memorial Day!
We got in here last night after some iffy weather and a little waiting prior to our flight time, but it improved and we able to get both flights in by 6 pm last night. Camp is very comfortable, and we have an especially nice kitchen dug out and set up. We’re having French toast for breakfast. On this expedition, we want to be serious about living well from the very beginning.
We’ll be making this a good skills. Soon we’ll be working on a review of prussiking, and a little later we’ll head Head up the glacier towards radio control tower buttress do some crevasse rescue exercises, learn how to pull sleds around efficiently, and do a few other tasks.
I have two messages to pass on:
From Jay, the message is: “Brother Ron, brother Martin”
From Brian the message is: “Love to Libby and everybody (exclamation point)
I’ll pass on more messages as we get them.
We’ll be back to camp early tonight for an early dinner and early bed time. We’ll get up at about 1am and after eating will head out to Camp 1 at 8000 feet. During this first part of the expedition when we’ll be on the lower Kahiltna Glacier, we’ll travel at night in order to get the firmest possible conditions.
We’re look forward to a great day. That’s the news for now! Back to you soon.”
.
Sunday, May 30, 2010
Rules for Comments
To be published, comments need to be:
1) from a particular person, not anonymous
2) to a particular person
Thanks!
AAI
1) from a particular person, not anonymous
2) to a particular person
Thanks!
AAI
Alpine Mountaineering & Technical Leadership 2 on Bonanza Peak
AMTL Part 2 May 23-June 3, 2010
Kurt Hicks called on Sunday May 30 at 8:42 am. He and fellow guide Justin Woods are in the final phase of Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership Part 2:
"Good morning. This is Kurt and Justin calling. We’re on the Lake Chelan Ferry on Lake Chelan heading for the villages of Lucerne and Holden. We’ll be camping on the Mary Green Glacier tonight thorough Tuesday night. We’ll come out on the Wednesday ferry unless we miss it, and if that happens, we’ll come out Thursday.
We’re planning to climb the Company Glacier on the north side of Bonanza Peak. Big peak, excellent route. We’re looking forward to it! We’re in great spirits and the weather is good. Talk to you later."
.
Kurt Hicks called on Sunday May 30 at 8:42 am. He and fellow guide Justin Woods are in the final phase of Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership Part 2:
"Good morning. This is Kurt and Justin calling. We’re on the Lake Chelan Ferry on Lake Chelan heading for the villages of Lucerne and Holden. We’ll be camping on the Mary Green Glacier tonight thorough Tuesday night. We’ll come out on the Wednesday ferry unless we miss it, and if that happens, we’ll come out Thursday.
We’re planning to climb the Company Glacier on the north side of Bonanza Peak. Big peak, excellent route. We’re looking forward to it! We’re in great spirits and the weather is good. Talk to you later."
.
Denali Team 3 - Dispatch #7
Denali Team 3: May 23 - June 12, 2010
Guides: Angela Seidling, Alaina Robertson
Climbers: Paul Rose, Joan Clofent, Paul Watkins, Carol Masheter, Simon Boaz, Bob Sullivan
Saturday, May 29, 11:17pm Pacific time
Lead Guide Angela Seidling called at 11:17pm and said:
“This is Angela calling to say ‘hello.’ We moved from camp 2 to 3 today. It was a good hard day. We had all sorts of changes in the weather – we had a little bit of everything: sun, wind, snow, white out conditions, and more sun. And here we are, safe and sound in our tents at Camp 3.
We worked hard to build a good camp when we got here. The cook tent stills needs some work.
Our plan tomorrow is to do a backcarry of our remaining gear from Camp 2 up to this position.
Yesterday the phone cut out before we could give you a clue to the meaning of our expedition name, Celebrations of Joy.” The clue is the average person has 18 celebrations of joy per day. We’ll let you work on that for a day or two before we tell you the meaning. We hope you’ll post your guesses on the blog so the folks at the Institute office can tell us what you are thinking. It’s fun to hear your comments.
OK. That’s our news for now. We’ll call you soon with an update. Bye for now!”
Guides: Angela Seidling, Alaina Robertson
Climbers: Paul Rose, Joan Clofent, Paul Watkins, Carol Masheter, Simon Boaz, Bob Sullivan
Saturday, May 29, 11:17pm Pacific time
Lead Guide Angela Seidling called at 11:17pm and said:
“This is Angela calling to say ‘hello.’ We moved from camp 2 to 3 today. It was a good hard day. We had all sorts of changes in the weather – we had a little bit of everything: sun, wind, snow, white out conditions, and more sun. And here we are, safe and sound in our tents at Camp 3.
We worked hard to build a good camp when we got here. The cook tent stills needs some work.
Our plan tomorrow is to do a backcarry of our remaining gear from Camp 2 up to this position.
Yesterday the phone cut out before we could give you a clue to the meaning of our expedition name, Celebrations of Joy.” The clue is the average person has 18 celebrations of joy per day. We’ll let you work on that for a day or two before we tell you the meaning. We hope you’ll post your guesses on the blog so the folks at the Institute office can tell us what you are thinking. It’s fun to hear your comments.
OK. That’s our news for now. We’ll call you soon with an update. Bye for now!”
Friday, May 28, 2010
Denali Team 3 - Dispatch #6
Denali Team 3: May 23 - June 12, 2010
Guides: Angela Seidling, Alaina Robertson
Climbers: Paul Rose, Joan Clofent, Paul Watkins, Carol Masheter, Simon Boaz, Bob Sullivan
Friday, May 28, 6:26 pm Pacific time
Lead Guide Angela Seidling called at 6:15 and said:
"Today we got up kind of early and did a carry up to 13,5000 feet. We made it there around noon after four hours of climbing, took an hour or so to dig the cache and have lunch, and got back to camp at around 2:00pm.
We just had soup and hot drinks and now we’re going to take naps or rest until it's the official dinner hour.
This was the coldest day so far. We were in and out of clouds and it was pretty windy, but we were lucky that at the cache it was sunny and windless – that was the warmest part of the day for us. We had a good day of it!
The new name for the expedition today is 'Celebrations of Joy.' There’s a certain meaning . . ." [at this point transmission was lost and could not be reestablished as the satellite moved out of position]
Guides: Angela Seidling, Alaina Robertson
Climbers: Paul Rose, Joan Clofent, Paul Watkins, Carol Masheter, Simon Boaz, Bob Sullivan
Friday, May 28, 6:26 pm Pacific time
Lead Guide Angela Seidling called at 6:15 and said:
"Today we got up kind of early and did a carry up to 13,5000 feet. We made it there around noon after four hours of climbing, took an hour or so to dig the cache and have lunch, and got back to camp at around 2:00pm.
We just had soup and hot drinks and now we’re going to take naps or rest until it's the official dinner hour.
This was the coldest day so far. We were in and out of clouds and it was pretty windy, but we were lucky that at the cache it was sunny and windless – that was the warmest part of the day for us. We had a good day of it!
The new name for the expedition today is 'Celebrations of Joy.' There’s a certain meaning . . ." [at this point transmission was lost and could not be reestablished as the satellite moved out of position]
Denali Team 2 - Dispatch #6
Denali Team 2: May 16 - June 5, 2010
Guides: Paul Ivaska, Chantel Astorga, Kevin Hogan
Climbers: John McQueston, Nick Pearce, Sarah Nelson, Roger Woolett, Simon James, Max Bouev, Jeff Marks, Alex Roetter, Mark Michelin
AAI Guide Kevin Hogan just called (Friday, 2:00pm Pacific Standard Time) from High Camp on Denali. He sounded out-of-breath on the phone, which isn't unusual for someone calling from 17,200 feet.
"We worked our way up here yesterday and it was a very looooong day," Kevin said. "The team trooped through it all. But it was a heavy and cold day."
As Kevin was speaking, the phone continually cut in and out and I didn't get every comment from him. But I was able to decipher that they will be trying to make the summit tomorrow and that it looks like that is the best day for it.
"Supposedly a low-pressure system is going to be coming in on Sunday, but who knows. The reports and the reality are all cattiwampus," he complained. "It's about ten degrees out right now and it probably got down to 15 below last night..."
Before the phone cut out entirely, I was able to share as many comments from the blog as possible with him...
--Jason
Guides: Paul Ivaska, Chantel Astorga, Kevin Hogan
Climbers: John McQueston, Nick Pearce, Sarah Nelson, Roger Woolett, Simon James, Max Bouev, Jeff Marks, Alex Roetter, Mark Michelin
AAI Guide Kevin Hogan just called (Friday, 2:00pm Pacific Standard Time) from High Camp on Denali. He sounded out-of-breath on the phone, which isn't unusual for someone calling from 17,200 feet.
"We worked our way up here yesterday and it was a very looooong day," Kevin said. "The team trooped through it all. But it was a heavy and cold day."
As Kevin was speaking, the phone continually cut in and out and I didn't get every comment from him. But I was able to decipher that they will be trying to make the summit tomorrow and that it looks like that is the best day for it.
"Supposedly a low-pressure system is going to be coming in on Sunday, but who knows. The reports and the reality are all cattiwampus," he complained. "It's about ten degrees out right now and it probably got down to 15 below last night..."
Before the phone cut out entirely, I was able to share as many comments from the blog as possible with him...
--Jason
Thursday, May 27, 2010
Denali Team 3 - Dispatch #5
Denali Team 3: May 23 - June 12, 2010
Guides: Angela Seidling, Alaina Robertson
Climbers: Paul Rose, Joan Clofent, Paul Watkins, Carol Masheter, Simon Boaz, Bob Sullivan
Thursday, May 27, 5:01 pm Pacific Standard Time
Lead Guide Angela Seidling called and left this dispatch:
Today we retrieved our cache from 10,400 ft and made it back to camp by noon! Then in the afternoon we did all sorts of fun things:
Carol, Paul R. and John focused on building walls for camp. Simon, Bob and Paul W. made the best bathroom this mountain has ever seen. Everyone is psyched about our new commode! The only thing that's missing is a newspaper rack. We also had a brief dance party in the cook tent (but it was pretty much just Alaina actually)
Here are some shout outs to our friends and family:
Simon: To Sugar Nipples, I hope the move is not too overwhelming, relax and let it go!
Bob: To the kids, you know what I'm thinking, I'm thinking, (wait for it) about the way Sabin cocks his head when I say "work".
Carol: From SilverFox, I howl my greetings to the Mountain Club and I'm dedicating this climb to all those facing unwelcome challenges, especially Mike and Terry!
Alaina: "Sizzling bacon!"
Paul R: To Angen, Massachusetts, keep on rocking!
Paul W: To all the Jims, Jim is good.
That's all for now!
Guides: Angela Seidling, Alaina Robertson
Climbers: Paul Rose, Joan Clofent, Paul Watkins, Carol Masheter, Simon Boaz, Bob Sullivan
Thursday, May 27, 5:01 pm Pacific Standard Time
Lead Guide Angela Seidling called and left this dispatch:
Today we retrieved our cache from 10,400 ft and made it back to camp by noon! Then in the afternoon we did all sorts of fun things:
Carol, Paul R. and John focused on building walls for camp. Simon, Bob and Paul W. made the best bathroom this mountain has ever seen. Everyone is psyched about our new commode! The only thing that's missing is a newspaper rack. We also had a brief dance party in the cook tent (but it was pretty much just Alaina actually)
Here are some shout outs to our friends and family:
Simon: To Sugar Nipples, I hope the move is not too overwhelming, relax and let it go!
Bob: To the kids, you know what I'm thinking, I'm thinking, (wait for it) about the way Sabin cocks his head when I say "work".
Carol: From SilverFox, I howl my greetings to the Mountain Club and I'm dedicating this climb to all those facing unwelcome challenges, especially Mike and Terry!
Alaina: "Sizzling bacon!"
Paul R: To Angen, Massachusetts, keep on rocking!
Paul W: To all the Jims, Jim is good.
That's all for now!
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
Denali Team 3 - Dispatch #4
Denali Team 3: May 23 - June 12, 2010
Guides: Angela Seidling, Alaina Robertson
Climbers: Paul Rose, Joan Clofent, Paul Watkins, Carol Masheter, Simon Boaz, Bob Sullivan
Wednesday, May 26, 5:16 pm Pacific Standard Time
Lead Guide Angela Seidling called and left this message: We moved to Camp 2 today and are currently in the process of building camp. But…we’re on the 45 minute break system, so we had some soup, hot drinks, and garlic bread. We still have a lot of work to do at camp, so that will keep us busy for the rest of the day.
It’s another glorious day here…
Did you figure out the team names? The Foxes and The Hounds? Well, I’ll tell you! As you're probably very well aware, there are not many mixed teams up here in Denali. However, our team actually has a pretty balanced ratio of men to women….hence, the names!
However, once we decided on this name, some people didn’t want to conform to these gender specific roles so we decided to let everyone choose their category in the end! Haha! We're holding off on more team names until later.
Here are some shout outs:
Simon: Mom, Dad, Melissa, Kenzie, Allysa, Hazen, and Kalven: I send my love and no sauerkraut.
Bob: Steph, Tilly, and Vin: My toilet seat is colder than yours but the view is way better!
Paul R: Send my love to Lisa, Calvin, and Aidan.
Alaina: Hi to mom and dad! I don’t smell that bad yet, send my love to Kelly. I’m think about bacon every day…
Carol: Tell my sister Linda, I love you. To my office mates and my sangha yoga class: “AAAHHHOOOO!!!
Paul W: To my wife Ilona AND WHO WON SURVIVOR????
John: We have a wonderful group!
Ok, that’s it!
Guides: Angela Seidling, Alaina Robertson
Climbers: Paul Rose, Joan Clofent, Paul Watkins, Carol Masheter, Simon Boaz, Bob Sullivan
Wednesday, May 26, 5:16 pm Pacific Standard Time
Lead Guide Angela Seidling called and left this message: We moved to Camp 2 today and are currently in the process of building camp. But…we’re on the 45 minute break system, so we had some soup, hot drinks, and garlic bread. We still have a lot of work to do at camp, so that will keep us busy for the rest of the day.
It’s another glorious day here…
Did you figure out the team names? The Foxes and The Hounds? Well, I’ll tell you! As you're probably very well aware, there are not many mixed teams up here in Denali. However, our team actually has a pretty balanced ratio of men to women….hence, the names!
However, once we decided on this name, some people didn’t want to conform to these gender specific roles so we decided to let everyone choose their category in the end! Haha! We're holding off on more team names until later.
Here are some shout outs:
Simon: Mom, Dad, Melissa, Kenzie, Allysa, Hazen, and Kalven: I send my love and no sauerkraut.
Bob: Steph, Tilly, and Vin: My toilet seat is colder than yours but the view is way better!
Paul R: Send my love to Lisa, Calvin, and Aidan.
Alaina: Hi to mom and dad! I don’t smell that bad yet, send my love to Kelly. I’m think about bacon every day…
Carol: Tell my sister Linda, I love you. To my office mates and my sangha yoga class: “AAAHHHOOOO!!!
Paul W: To my wife Ilona AND WHO WON SURVIVOR????
John: We have a wonderful group!
Ok, that’s it!
Denali Team 3 - Dispatch #3
Denali Team 3: May 23 - June 12, 2010
Guides: Angela Seidling, Alaina Robertson
Climbers: Paul Rose, Joan Clofent, Paul Watkins, Carol Masheter, Simon Boaz, Bob Sullivan
Tueday, May 25, 9:28 pm Pacific Standard Time
Lead Guide Angela Seidling called and left this message:
Today we did a carry and cache to 10,400 ft and came down to camp for a leisurely afternoon. We had some food, some liqueur, we're also reading some books and listening to Australian hip-hop.
We don’t know if anyone figured out the answer to the team puzzle (no one was in the office to pickup), so here is the answer: “The Reruns” are people who have been here before, and they are here again. “Prime Time” are team members who are here for the first time!
And.....We made new team names:
“The Foxes” and “The Hounds”. We’ll give you a day to try to figure that one out and hopefully touch base tomorrow.
Everyone gives a shout out to family and friends!
Guides: Angela Seidling, Alaina Robertson
Climbers: Paul Rose, Joan Clofent, Paul Watkins, Carol Masheter, Simon Boaz, Bob Sullivan
Tueday, May 25, 9:28 pm Pacific Standard Time
Lead Guide Angela Seidling called and left this message:
Today we did a carry and cache to 10,400 ft and came down to camp for a leisurely afternoon. We had some food, some liqueur, we're also reading some books and listening to Australian hip-hop.
We don’t know if anyone figured out the answer to the team puzzle (no one was in the office to pickup), so here is the answer: “The Reruns” are people who have been here before, and they are here again. “Prime Time” are team members who are here for the first time!
And.....We made new team names:
“The Foxes” and “The Hounds”. We’ll give you a day to try to figure that one out and hopefully touch base tomorrow.
Everyone gives a shout out to family and friends!
Denali Team 2 - Dispatch #5
Denali Team 2: May 16 - June 5, 2010
Guides: Paul Ivaska, Chantel Astorga, Kevin Hogan
Climbers: John McQueston, Nick Pearce, Sarah Nelson, Roger Woolett, Simon James, Max Bouev, Jeff Marks, Alex Roetter, Mark Michelin
AAI Guide Kevin Hogan called at 1:40pm PST with the following dispatch:
We’re currently at 14,000 feet. Yesterday we made a carry and cache to 16,100 feet and it worked out well. The fixed lines worked out great. Today is a rest day. Tomorrow we plan on making our move to 17,200 feet to high camp.
Chantel says hello.
The weather outlook for the next few days looks favorable, so it looks like we will have an admirable shot at the summit. Keep the mojo flowing for us.
A few messages to our family and friends:
Simon: Just wants to say hi to Karin.
Sarah: Wants Outward Bound to know they are rocking the electric feel.
Roger: Wants the world to know this is his quote: “tomorrows work out of the day, three thousand feet in 3/4 mile”.
Kevo: Says hi to Bob Gerry, and his mom.
That’s all for now.
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
Denali Team 3 - Camp One
Denali Team 3: May 23 - June 12, 2010
Guides: Angela Seidling, Alaina Robertson
Climbers: Paul Rose, Joan Clofent, Paul Watkins, Carol Masheter, Simon Boaz, Bob Sullivan
Monday, May 24, 5:56 pm Pacific Standard Time
Lead Guide Angela Seidling called and left this message:
“Hey everyone this is Angela from team three calling to say hello! We made it up to camp one today in a single carry. It was another absolutely beautiful day on the Kahiltna glacier. We were able to leave early enough so the first half of our day was in nice cool temperatures, and then it warmed up for the rest of the afternoon.
We made some critical team decisions today. We decided to come up with multiple team names over the course of the trip. We are coming up with these names depending on how we feel.
So for right now, we have a name for each of the two rope teams. Rope team one is currently named “The Reruns,” and rope team two has named themselves “Prime Time.”
In good puzzle master style, we thought it would be fun if you all (friends and family) try to come up with what those names meant. Good luck! We will try and get a hold of the office during office hours so we can hear what people guessed the team names mean.
Alright, talk to you soon, bye everybody!”
Guides: Angela Seidling, Alaina Robertson
Climbers: Paul Rose, Joan Clofent, Paul Watkins, Carol Masheter, Simon Boaz, Bob Sullivan
Monday, May 24, 5:56 pm Pacific Standard Time
Lead Guide Angela Seidling called and left this message:
“Hey everyone this is Angela from team three calling to say hello! We made it up to camp one today in a single carry. It was another absolutely beautiful day on the Kahiltna glacier. We were able to leave early enough so the first half of our day was in nice cool temperatures, and then it warmed up for the rest of the afternoon.
We made some critical team decisions today. We decided to come up with multiple team names over the course of the trip. We are coming up with these names depending on how we feel.
So for right now, we have a name for each of the two rope teams. Rope team one is currently named “The Reruns,” and rope team two has named themselves “Prime Time.”
In good puzzle master style, we thought it would be fun if you all (friends and family) try to come up with what those names meant. Good luck! We will try and get a hold of the office during office hours so we can hear what people guessed the team names mean.
Alright, talk to you soon, bye everybody!”
Monday, May 24, 2010
Denali Team 3 - On Kahiltna Glacier
Denali Team 3: May 23 - June 12, 2010
Guides: Angela Seidling, Alaina Robertson
Climbers: Paul Rose, Joan Clofent, Paul Watkins, Carol Masheter, Simon Boaz, Bob Sullivan
Sunday, May 23, 10:46 pm Pacific time
Lead Guide Angela Seidling called with this dispatch:
"This is Angela calling from the Kahiltna Glacier. Today we finished our business in Talkeetna and flew onto the glacier early in the afternoon. The weather was beautiful and it was a spectacular flight. We spent the afternoon going over roped glacier travel and sled rigging ... had hamburgers for dinner ... and now we're all in our tents and resting up for a long haul tomorrow. Tomorrow the plan is to move to Camp 1.
"Oh, and we're working on a team name. The creative juices are flowing ... but we haven't got anything yet. Three of our climbers have been on Denali before and three have not, so we're thinking that may figure into our name somehow ...
"Okay, that's it ... talk to you tomorrow."
Guides: Angela Seidling, Alaina Robertson
Climbers: Paul Rose, Joan Clofent, Paul Watkins, Carol Masheter, Simon Boaz, Bob Sullivan
Sunday, May 23, 10:46 pm Pacific time
Lead Guide Angela Seidling called with this dispatch:
"This is Angela calling from the Kahiltna Glacier. Today we finished our business in Talkeetna and flew onto the glacier early in the afternoon. The weather was beautiful and it was a spectacular flight. We spent the afternoon going over roped glacier travel and sled rigging ... had hamburgers for dinner ... and now we're all in our tents and resting up for a long haul tomorrow. Tomorrow the plan is to move to Camp 1.
"Oh, and we're working on a team name. The creative juices are flowing ... but we haven't got anything yet. Three of our climbers have been on Denali before and three have not, so we're thinking that may figure into our name somehow ...
"Okay, that's it ... talk to you tomorrow."
Sunday, May 23, 2010
Denali Team 2 - Dispatch #4
Denali Team 2: May 16 - June 5, 2010
Guides: Paul Ivaska, Chantel Astorga, Kevin Hogan
Climbers: John McQueston, Nick Pearce, Sarah Nelson, Roger Woolett, Simon James, Max Bouev, Jeff Marks, Alex Roetter, Mark Michelin
Greetings from Team #2. This is Kevin calling to let you know that we are now at 14,000 and all doing well. Today we did a back carry to bring our supplies up from our cache at 13,500 feet. Tomorrow the 24th will be a rest day for us, and we're looking forward to that.
If the weather is good, we plan to cross the glacier here to the Edge of the World for the great views. We had great weather today – very calm and sunny and we had excellent views of the range. We hope everybody had a really goo weekend, and we’ll give you another update tomorrow.
Guides: Paul Ivaska, Chantel Astorga, Kevin Hogan
Climbers: John McQueston, Nick Pearce, Sarah Nelson, Roger Woolett, Simon James, Max Bouev, Jeff Marks, Alex Roetter, Mark Michelin
Greetings from Team #2. This is Kevin calling to let you know that we are now at 14,000 and all doing well. Today we did a back carry to bring our supplies up from our cache at 13,500 feet. Tomorrow the 24th will be a rest day for us, and we're looking forward to that.
If the weather is good, we plan to cross the glacier here to the Edge of the World for the great views. We had great weather today – very calm and sunny and we had excellent views of the range. We hope everybody had a really goo weekend, and we’ll give you another update tomorrow.
Denali Team 1 - Dispatch #17
Denali Team 1: May 2-22, 2010
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Saturday, May 22 - 3:16pm Pacific time
Hello – this is Forest again. I wanted to leave a last dispatch and let you know that we are all well and back in Talkeetna.
We traveled through night last night [Friday night] from our 14,000-foot camp back to base at the landing area and flew out this morning [Saturday] at 9:30 am. We’re now back in Talkeetna unpacking and getting gear sorted out, and we’re planning a celebratory dinner tonight at 7:00. We're all looking forward to that. Everybody is doing really well, and we’re very happy to be back! Thanks for following our expedition.
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Saturday, May 22 - 3:16pm Pacific time
Hello – this is Forest again. I wanted to leave a last dispatch and let you know that we are all well and back in Talkeetna.
We traveled through night last night [Friday night] from our 14,000-foot camp back to base at the landing area and flew out this morning [Saturday] at 9:30 am. We’re now back in Talkeetna unpacking and getting gear sorted out, and we’re planning a celebratory dinner tonight at 7:00. We're all looking forward to that. Everybody is doing really well, and we’re very happy to be back! Thanks for following our expedition.
Friday, May 21, 2010
Denali Team 2 - Dispatch #3
Denali Team 2: May 16 - June 5, 2010
Guides: Paul Ivaska, Chantel Astorga, Kevin Hogan
Climbers: John McQueston, Nick Pearce, Sarah Nelson, Roger Woolett, Simon James, Max Bouev, Jeff Marks, Alex Roetter, Mark Michelin
Friday, May 21: At 5:35 PST AAI Guide Kevin Hogan called with this dispatch:
“Hi, we are still at 11,000 foot camp. Everyone's swell! We made a carry to 13,500 today and just got back to camp. Tomorrow we'll be heading up to 14,000 camp. The weather is looking great and we'll check in soon!”
"Also, Sarah says 'Happy Birthday Mom!'"
Guides: Paul Ivaska, Chantel Astorga, Kevin Hogan
Climbers: John McQueston, Nick Pearce, Sarah Nelson, Roger Woolett, Simon James, Max Bouev, Jeff Marks, Alex Roetter, Mark Michelin
Friday, May 21: At 5:35 PST AAI Guide Kevin Hogan called with this dispatch:
“Hi, we are still at 11,000 foot camp. Everyone's swell! We made a carry to 13,500 today and just got back to camp. Tomorrow we'll be heading up to 14,000 camp. The weather is looking great and we'll check in soon!”
"Also, Sarah says 'Happy Birthday Mom!'"
Denali Team 1 - Dispatch #16
Denali Team 1: May 2-22, 2010
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Friday, May 21 - 10:29am Pacific Standard Time
AAI Guide Forest McBrian called in with this update:
"Hi guys! It's another sunny day at 17,000 foot camp, we are just waiting for the winds to die down so we can descend to 14,000 feet. Our general plan is just to get down to the airstrip as timely as possible, and hopefully in a comfortable manner as well. It isn't very clear when we will hit the airstrip, possibly tonight but most likely tomorrow.
The earliest we would conceivably be flying out is tomorrow sometime. People are still pretty fatigued from the summit push, but they are happy and trying to eat and drink enough to bounce back. Most importantly, it seems like the dinosaur conflict has resolved itself."
This is where Forest proceeded to tell me how the brontosauruses weren't strong enough to make it to 17,000 feet as they need vegetables. The pterodactyls on the other hand were able to swoop back down to 14,000 and pick up meat. Apparently the pterodactyls reign is ensured at this point. Back to Forest...
"Anyway, we are on our way down and everyone is looking forward to calling home. See you guys soon!"
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Friday, May 21 - 10:29am Pacific Standard Time
AAI Guide Forest McBrian called in with this update:
"Hi guys! It's another sunny day at 17,000 foot camp, we are just waiting for the winds to die down so we can descend to 14,000 feet. Our general plan is just to get down to the airstrip as timely as possible, and hopefully in a comfortable manner as well. It isn't very clear when we will hit the airstrip, possibly tonight but most likely tomorrow.
The earliest we would conceivably be flying out is tomorrow sometime. People are still pretty fatigued from the summit push, but they are happy and trying to eat and drink enough to bounce back. Most importantly, it seems like the dinosaur conflict has resolved itself."
This is where Forest proceeded to tell me how the brontosauruses weren't strong enough to make it to 17,000 feet as they need vegetables. The pterodactyls on the other hand were able to swoop back down to 14,000 and pick up meat. Apparently the pterodactyls reign is ensured at this point. Back to Forest...
"Anyway, we are on our way down and everyone is looking forward to calling home. See you guys soon!"
Thursday, May 20, 2010
Denali Team 1 - Dispatch #15
Denali Team 1: May 2-22, 2010
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Thursday, May 20 - 7:15am Pacific Standard Time
AAI Guide Forest McBrian called in with this quick update:
"Hey everybody, Mike, Rob, Deke, Jens, and Chris are down and safe from the summit after a 20 hour summit push. They were successful and fought their way down through the storm. Just wanted to let everyone know that we are all safe. Will call more with the full story later. Bye bye."
Congrats Team 1!
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Thursday, May 20 - 7:15am Pacific Standard Time
AAI Guide Forest McBrian called in with this quick update:
"Hey everybody, Mike, Rob, Deke, Jens, and Chris are down and safe from the summit after a 20 hour summit push. They were successful and fought their way down through the storm. Just wanted to let everyone know that we are all safe. Will call more with the full story later. Bye bye."
Congrats Team 1!
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
Denali Team 2 - Dispatch #2
Denali Team 2: May 16 - June 5, 2010
Guides: Paul Ivaska, Chantel Astorga, Kevin Hogan
Climbers: John McQueston, Nick Pearce, Sarah Nelson, Roger Woolett, Simon James, Max Bouev, Jeff Marks, Alex Roetter, Mark Michelin
Wednesday, May 19
At 5:35 PST AAI Guide Kevin Hogan called with this dispatch:
“Hi guys, we are at 11,000 foot camp. We just moved up here yesterday, and tomorrow we plan on back carrying to retrieve our 10,000 foot cash. The day after that, on the 21st, we hope to make a carry up to 13,600 foot camp. The weather has been really clear, sunny, and absolutely beautiful. Everyone is doing well, pulling strong, and is excited to be on the mountain.”
Kevin then proceeded to relay messages from each climber.
Roger – sends love to his family and say Hi to his AMGEM friends
Alex – says hi to his parents, Nick and Natasha
John – says hi to this mom, dad, and Liam
Nick – says hi to his mom, dad and Noah
Max – says hi to the world
Jeff – says hi to his friends Bear, Frog and Charlie
Sarah – says hello to Adam, and wants to say she hates snow shoes. Also to Adrial, “the weather is here, wish you were beautiful.” (I guess it is an inside joke?)
Simon – says he hopes Karin is having a good week, I miss you, and wants her to know his new nickname is Big Mamma (because he looks huge in his down pants.)
Guides Paul and Kevin just say hi to each other.
Back to Kevin’s dispatch, “Everyone is complaining that they are eating too well. They have seen some beautiful serac avalanches, and are really excited about the beautiful weather. Sorry if I left anyone's message out. We are are all just having such a great time and living in the moment. We will keep in touch over the next couple of days.”
Guides: Paul Ivaska, Chantel Astorga, Kevin Hogan
Climbers: John McQueston, Nick Pearce, Sarah Nelson, Roger Woolett, Simon James, Max Bouev, Jeff Marks, Alex Roetter, Mark Michelin
Wednesday, May 19
At 5:35 PST AAI Guide Kevin Hogan called with this dispatch:
“Hi guys, we are at 11,000 foot camp. We just moved up here yesterday, and tomorrow we plan on back carrying to retrieve our 10,000 foot cash. The day after that, on the 21st, we hope to make a carry up to 13,600 foot camp. The weather has been really clear, sunny, and absolutely beautiful. Everyone is doing well, pulling strong, and is excited to be on the mountain.”
Kevin then proceeded to relay messages from each climber.
Roger – sends love to his family and say Hi to his AMGEM friends
Alex – says hi to his parents, Nick and Natasha
John – says hi to this mom, dad, and Liam
Nick – says hi to his mom, dad and Noah
Max – says hi to the world
Jeff – says hi to his friends Bear, Frog and Charlie
Sarah – says hello to Adam, and wants to say she hates snow shoes. Also to Adrial, “the weather is here, wish you were beautiful.” (I guess it is an inside joke?)
Simon – says he hopes Karin is having a good week, I miss you, and wants her to know his new nickname is Big Mamma (because he looks huge in his down pants.)
Guides Paul and Kevin just say hi to each other.
Back to Kevin’s dispatch, “Everyone is complaining that they are eating too well. They have seen some beautiful serac avalanches, and are really excited about the beautiful weather. Sorry if I left anyone's message out. We are are all just having such a great time and living in the moment. We will keep in touch over the next couple of days.”
Denali Team 1 - Summit Day
Denali Team 1: May 2-22, 2010
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Wednesday, May 19 - 2:35 pm Pacific time
AAI Guide Forest McBrian called in with this dispatch:
"It's a very beautiful day here at our 17,000-foot high camp. As we speak Mike Pond and four climbers are almost at Denali Pass.
"Two of us have stayed back here in camp to take an extra day for rest and acclimatization. We are looking at several days of good weather coming up and we are exploring options to make a separate bid for the summit, if we can work it.
Other than that, things are looking great. The summit team members were all feeling strong when they left and it looks like they’re going to have a great day for it.
Okay, that’s it … over and out.”
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Wednesday, May 19 - 2:35 pm Pacific time
AAI Guide Forest McBrian called in with this dispatch:
"It's a very beautiful day here at our 17,000-foot high camp. As we speak Mike Pond and four climbers are almost at Denali Pass.
"Two of us have stayed back here in camp to take an extra day for rest and acclimatization. We are looking at several days of good weather coming up and we are exploring options to make a separate bid for the summit, if we can work it.
Other than that, things are looking great. The summit team members were all feeling strong when they left and it looks like they’re going to have a great day for it.
Okay, that’s it … over and out.”
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
Denali Team 1 - Dispatch #13
Denali Team 1: May 2-22, 2010
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Tuesday, May 18 - 4:55 pm PST
AAI Guide Mike Pond called in with this dispatch:
Hey guys! Just hanging out at high camp right now. It looks like there are some pretty darn high winds up top. We had some high winds overnight and in the morning, but around 11 O’clock this morning they died down and we were able to move around without worrying our booties would freeze off. We had a long day coming in yesterday and got in late in the evening, but everybody pulled their weight. We even took the time build a solid camp which is so useful at these high camps which can see such strong weather.
Everyone is in really great health, no one has had any problems. Last night there were some cold toes and fingers, but that is to be expected at –20 degrees and strong winds. We are on the total freeze dried high camp diet, but no one is complaining. We’ve been able to hang out with another party who is up at high camp right now and make some friends which is always nice.
Potentially we will be shooting for the summit tomorrow. We are going to watch the weather report tonight and see what it is like tomorrow, however we are cautious to get our hopes it. Regardless, the next three or four days are looking good and I’m sure we will find a summit window open up for us.
Unfortunately our poetic inspiration has blown away with the winds, but please do tell my mom and dad I say hi again!
Mike out.
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter (http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute) or on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/alpineinstitute).
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our Climbing Blog.
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Tuesday, May 18 - 4:55 pm PST
AAI Guide Mike Pond called in with this dispatch:
Hey guys! Just hanging out at high camp right now. It looks like there are some pretty darn high winds up top. We had some high winds overnight and in the morning, but around 11 O’clock this morning they died down and we were able to move around without worrying our booties would freeze off. We had a long day coming in yesterday and got in late in the evening, but everybody pulled their weight. We even took the time build a solid camp which is so useful at these high camps which can see such strong weather.
Everyone is in really great health, no one has had any problems. Last night there were some cold toes and fingers, but that is to be expected at –20 degrees and strong winds. We are on the total freeze dried high camp diet, but no one is complaining. We’ve been able to hang out with another party who is up at high camp right now and make some friends which is always nice.
Potentially we will be shooting for the summit tomorrow. We are going to watch the weather report tonight and see what it is like tomorrow, however we are cautious to get our hopes it. Regardless, the next three or four days are looking good and I’m sure we will find a summit window open up for us.
Unfortunately our poetic inspiration has blown away with the winds, but please do tell my mom and dad I say hi again!
Mike out.
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter (http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute) or on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/alpineinstitute).
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our Climbing Blog.
Denali Team 2 - Dispatch #1
Denali Team 2: May 16 - June 5, 2010
Guides: Paul Ivaska, Chantel Astorga, Kevin Hogan
Climbers: John McQueston, Nick Pearce, Sarah Nelson, Roger Woolett, Simon James, Max Bouev, Jeff Marks, Alex Roetter, Mark Michelin
Monday, May 17 - 8 pm PST
Assistant Denali Guide Kevin Hogan called in with the following dispatch. The reception was patchy so parts of the dispatch were difficult to understand.
"Hey there office, this is Kevin calling in with the first dispatch of Team 2. We flew in to basecamp yesterday after a wonderful afternoon in Talkeetna full of pizza and burgers. Today, is actually my birthday and there is nowhere else I'd rather be to celebrate!"
"We did a single carry today up to make a cache at Camp 1. One of the highlights of the day was the awesome lunch of Chicken of the Sea sandwiches. We've got a taste of Thailand tonight. The weather is stellar and the views magnificent."
"Everyone would like to say hello to the family and friends. (Note: There were more specific hellos but it was very difficult to understand). We'll be moving up to Camp 1 tomorrow. Talk to you all later!"
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter (http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute) or on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/alpineinstitute).
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our Climbing Blog.
Guides: Paul Ivaska, Chantel Astorga, Kevin Hogan
Climbers: John McQueston, Nick Pearce, Sarah Nelson, Roger Woolett, Simon James, Max Bouev, Jeff Marks, Alex Roetter, Mark Michelin
Monday, May 17 - 8 pm PST
Assistant Denali Guide Kevin Hogan called in with the following dispatch. The reception was patchy so parts of the dispatch were difficult to understand.
"Hey there office, this is Kevin calling in with the first dispatch of Team 2. We flew in to basecamp yesterday after a wonderful afternoon in Talkeetna full of pizza and burgers. Today, is actually my birthday and there is nowhere else I'd rather be to celebrate!"
"We did a single carry today up to make a cache at Camp 1. One of the highlights of the day was the awesome lunch of Chicken of the Sea sandwiches. We've got a taste of Thailand tonight. The weather is stellar and the views magnificent."
"Everyone would like to say hello to the family and friends. (Note: There were more specific hellos but it was very difficult to understand). We'll be moving up to Camp 1 tomorrow. Talk to you all later!"
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter (http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute) or on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/alpineinstitute).
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our Climbing Blog.
Monday, May 17, 2010
Denali Team 1 - Dispatch #12
Denali Team 1: May 2-22, 2010
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Monday, May 17 - 12:30 pm PST
AAI Guide Mike Pond called in with this dispatch:
Everything has been going really well. We’ve been having pretty good weather lately which is promising. We are actually going to move up to high camp today. It looks like there is a decent weather window coming in, as a light high pressure system has been predicted for the coming week.
We are trying to get into position to take advantage of that. We will see what happens, but after heading up today we are planning on taking a rest day tomorrow and then trying for the summit after that. Of course we have to flexible as the weather develops.
We are starting to get creative with food because we are on freeze dried meals from here on out. We have been combining meals lately. For instance, we had, “good” food last night. Very non-specific, I know, but it is better that way.
As a final note, the pterodactyls are coming back aggressively towards the brontosauruses. We will see how this turns out, there may be some drama in the near future between these two dinosaur factions.
Krushnna says “hi” to her mom. The whole team wishes everyone to keep on rockin’ in the free world.
-Mike
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter (http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute) or on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/alpineinstitute).
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our Climbing Blog.
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Monday, May 17 - 12:30 pm PST
AAI Guide Mike Pond called in with this dispatch:
Everything has been going really well. We’ve been having pretty good weather lately which is promising. We are actually going to move up to high camp today. It looks like there is a decent weather window coming in, as a light high pressure system has been predicted for the coming week.
We are trying to get into position to take advantage of that. We will see what happens, but after heading up today we are planning on taking a rest day tomorrow and then trying for the summit after that. Of course we have to flexible as the weather develops.
We are starting to get creative with food because we are on freeze dried meals from here on out. We have been combining meals lately. For instance, we had, “good” food last night. Very non-specific, I know, but it is better that way.
As a final note, the pterodactyls are coming back aggressively towards the brontosauruses. We will see how this turns out, there may be some drama in the near future between these two dinosaur factions.
Krushnna says “hi” to her mom. The whole team wishes everyone to keep on rockin’ in the free world.
-Mike
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter (http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute) or on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/alpineinstitute).
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our Climbing Blog.
Saturday, May 15, 2010
Denali Team 1 - Dispatch #11
Denali Team 1: May 2-22, 2010
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Wednesday, May 15 - 12:30 pm
Lead AAI Guide Forest McBrian called in with this dispatch:
It's windy and cold and we are still at 14,000 feet. A high pressure system is expected to arrive on Sunday or Monday. We're going to try to move up to 17,000 feet tomorrow so that we are in position for the high pressure.
People are still really psyched to be here. Everybody is still taking in the scenery and most are still somewhat awestruck at the beauty of our position. But, everybody is stoked to get moving again too...
I'll give you a call tomorrow to let you know where we're at!
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter (http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute) or on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/alpineinstitute).
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our Climbing Blog.
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Wednesday, May 15 - 12:30 pm
Lead AAI Guide Forest McBrian called in with this dispatch:
It's windy and cold and we are still at 14,000 feet. A high pressure system is expected to arrive on Sunday or Monday. We're going to try to move up to 17,000 feet tomorrow so that we are in position for the high pressure.
People are still really psyched to be here. Everybody is still taking in the scenery and most are still somewhat awestruck at the beauty of our position. But, everybody is stoked to get moving again too...
I'll give you a call tomorrow to let you know where we're at!
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter (http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute) or on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/alpineinstitute).
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our Climbing Blog.
Friday, May 14, 2010
Denali Team 1 - Dispatch #10
Denali Team 1: May 2-22, 2010
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Wednesday, May 14 - 3:16 pm
Lead AAI Guide Forest McBrian called in with this dispatch:
We’re sitting out another day of funky weather here today. Supposedly, the high pressure arrives on Monday, so we’re hoping to move up Sunday or Monday. Today we’ve had a glorious breakfast of hashbrowns, sausage, eggs, and cheese this morning. Everyone’s happy and healthy. We have a great group of company.
(I asked Forest what people are doing to stay entertained….)
People are reading books, listening to ipods, watching movies on ipods. We just hang out and talk a lot around meals. Overall, we’re just chilling!
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter(http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute) or on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/alpineinstitute).
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our Climbing Blog
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Wednesday, May 14 - 3:16 pm
Lead AAI Guide Forest McBrian called in with this dispatch:
We’re sitting out another day of funky weather here today. Supposedly, the high pressure arrives on Monday, so we’re hoping to move up Sunday or Monday. Today we’ve had a glorious breakfast of hashbrowns, sausage, eggs, and cheese this morning. Everyone’s happy and healthy. We have a great group of company.
(I asked Forest what people are doing to stay entertained….)
People are reading books, listening to ipods, watching movies on ipods. We just hang out and talk a lot around meals. Overall, we’re just chilling!
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter(http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute) or on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/alpineinstitute).
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our Climbing Blog
Thursday, May 13, 2010
Denali Team 1 - Dispatch #9
Denali Team 1: May 2-22, 2010
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Wednesday, May 13; 12:49 pm
Office: Hi Forest! What’s new? Last time we talked, you mentioned something about dinosaurs…
Forest: Ah yes! Well, it seems we have a peace treaty among the factions…
Office: Well, how are the conditions up there?
Forest: We have another haiku for you!
Office: Another one?
Forest: Yes. Ready?
Winter in summer
Magical Alaska storms
Let’s eat some bacon
Office: Beautiful. Has the group been productive?
Forest: Yes. Yesterday we put a cache up at 16,200 ft. The cache is at top of our fixed lines. The lines up the headwall are on solid blue ice, though.
Office: Is that good or bad?
Forest: It just makes it challenging!
Office: And how is everyone doing?
Forest: Everyone’s in good spirits – Eating, drinking well. Everyone is doing exceptionally well. We’ve haven’t given out any prescription drugs to anyone! No colds, no altitude problems. Nothing! Mike says "hi" to his mom. Now we're just waiting for good weather. The forecast looks a little funky but we’re keeping our fingers crossed!
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter (http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute) or on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/alpineinstitute).
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our Climbing Blog.
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Wednesday, May 13; 12:49 pm
Office: Hi Forest! What’s new? Last time we talked, you mentioned something about dinosaurs…
Forest: Ah yes! Well, it seems we have a peace treaty among the factions…
Office: Well, how are the conditions up there?
Forest: We have another haiku for you!
Office: Another one?
Forest: Yes. Ready?
Winter in summer
Magical Alaska storms
Let’s eat some bacon
Office: Beautiful. Has the group been productive?
Forest: Yes. Yesterday we put a cache up at 16,200 ft. The cache is at top of our fixed lines. The lines up the headwall are on solid blue ice, though.
Office: Is that good or bad?
Forest: It just makes it challenging!
Office: And how is everyone doing?
Forest: Everyone’s in good spirits – Eating, drinking well. Everyone is doing exceptionally well. We’ve haven’t given out any prescription drugs to anyone! No colds, no altitude problems. Nothing! Mike says "hi" to his mom. Now we're just waiting for good weather. The forecast looks a little funky but we’re keeping our fingers crossed!
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter (http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute) or on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/alpineinstitute).
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our Climbing Blog.
Everest Dispatch - May 13 2010
Psyching Up for the Summit
13 May 2010
As we bide our time at Base Camp, waiting for our weather window, Mike and Ang Dorjee took to the opportunity to brief the team on the next phase of the expedition - the summit push.
This morning oxygen masks and regulators were issued and everyone now has their individual set-up which will stay with them from Camp Three to the summit and back again. Mask fittings were adjusted and everyone tested their regulators and became familiar with how to change an oxygen bottle. Mandy, Tony and James then ensured that their mask fitted well over their various combinations of balaclavas, hats, sunglasses and goggles, and that no steaming-up occurred.
This afternoon we had a long discussion about the trip above Camp Three. Clothing combinations, terrain features and nutrition were all discussed, along with a blow-by-blow description of what to expect on summit day. We concluded the afternoon by watching a video of summit day, made by AC guide Mark Sedon, in 2007. The group last watched this film back in Kathmandu all those weeks ago and it was great to be able to visualize the day ahead. Hopefully this afternoon served to answer the team's many questions and also motivate each member for a successful summit bid.
Cheers for now,
Caroline
To read more Everest 2010 Dispatches, please see the Dispatch Library website of our sister company, Adventure Consultants.
13 May 2010
As we bide our time at Base Camp, waiting for our weather window, Mike and Ang Dorjee took to the opportunity to brief the team on the next phase of the expedition - the summit push.
This morning oxygen masks and regulators were issued and everyone now has their individual set-up which will stay with them from Camp Three to the summit and back again. Mask fittings were adjusted and everyone tested their regulators and became familiar with how to change an oxygen bottle. Mandy, Tony and James then ensured that their mask fitted well over their various combinations of balaclavas, hats, sunglasses and goggles, and that no steaming-up occurred.
This afternoon we had a long discussion about the trip above Camp Three. Clothing combinations, terrain features and nutrition were all discussed, along with a blow-by-blow description of what to expect on summit day. We concluded the afternoon by watching a video of summit day, made by AC guide Mark Sedon, in 2007. The group last watched this film back in Kathmandu all those weeks ago and it was great to be able to visualize the day ahead. Hopefully this afternoon served to answer the team's many questions and also motivate each member for a successful summit bid.
Cheers for now,
Caroline
To read more Everest 2010 Dispatches, please see the Dispatch Library website of our sister company, Adventure Consultants.
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Denali Team #1 - Dispatch 8
Denali Team 1: May 2-22, 2010
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Wednesday, May 12; 12:00pm
"Hello again office folks. There has finally been a break in this crumby weather and we are going to take full advantage of it by trying to make a cache above the fixed lines. This is likely just a break between two weather systems so we are going to move safely and quickly to make the cache."
"The battles between the difference dinosaur factions has grown. Graffiti has appeared around camp with messages including 'Pterodactyls Rule!; Brontosauruses eat weeds; and T-Rexs Forever!'. I only hope that we can contain these feuds before they escalate too much further. Nice weather will probably help, it'll give everyone something to do besides wait out the weather! Well, I've got to get moving, I'll call you all tomorrow."
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter (http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute) or on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/alpineinstitute).
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our Climbing Blog
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Wednesday, May 12; 12:00pm
"Hello again office folks. There has finally been a break in this crumby weather and we are going to take full advantage of it by trying to make a cache above the fixed lines. This is likely just a break between two weather systems so we are going to move safely and quickly to make the cache."
"The battles between the difference dinosaur factions has grown. Graffiti has appeared around camp with messages including 'Pterodactyls Rule!; Brontosauruses eat weeds; and T-Rexs Forever!'. I only hope that we can contain these feuds before they escalate too much further. Nice weather will probably help, it'll give everyone something to do besides wait out the weather! Well, I've got to get moving, I'll call you all tomorrow."
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter (http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute) or on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/alpineinstitute).
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our Climbing Blog
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Denali Team 1 - Dispatch #7
Denali Team 1: May 2-22, 2010
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Tuesday, May 11; 3:52pm
Forest called in with a quick dispatch:
Office: Hi Forest, How’s it going?
Forest: Good.
Office: Dispatch away…
Forest: Taking a weather day here at 14. The wind is blowing pretty hard. We composed a haiku about the storm for you all.
Streaming wisps of snow
Watching stars collide all day
We've no idea
*Pause*
Forest: That’s with an apostrophe.
Office: Wait. Isn’t that 4 syllables at the end? I thought Haikus were 5-7-5.
Forest: I think that’s 5 syllables.
Office: Right! What else?
Forest: Everyone’s hunkered down in their tents, just resting up. I'm eating breakfast, having some toast right now.
Office: Any other comments?
Forest: We've developed some factions among the group. We have one roped tyrannosaurus rex and some pterodactyls.
Unfortunately, the phone cuts out! Sounds like they're keeping themselves entertained and getting some rest while the storm passes!
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter (http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute) or on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/alpineinstitute).
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our Climbing Blog
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Tuesday, May 11; 3:52pm
Forest called in with a quick dispatch:
Office: Hi Forest, How’s it going?
Forest: Good.
Office: Dispatch away…
Forest: Taking a weather day here at 14. The wind is blowing pretty hard. We composed a haiku about the storm for you all.
Streaming wisps of snow
Watching stars collide all day
We've no idea
*Pause*
Forest: That’s with an apostrophe.
Office: Wait. Isn’t that 4 syllables at the end? I thought Haikus were 5-7-5.
Forest: I think that’s 5 syllables.
Office: Right! What else?
Forest: Everyone’s hunkered down in their tents, just resting up. I'm eating breakfast, having some toast right now.
Office: Any other comments?
Forest: We've developed some factions among the group. We have one roped tyrannosaurus rex and some pterodactyls.
Unfortunately, the phone cuts out! Sounds like they're keeping themselves entertained and getting some rest while the storm passes!
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter (http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute) or on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/alpineinstitute).
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our Climbing Blog
Saturday, May 8, 2010
Denali Team 1 - Dispatch #6
Denali Team 1: May 2-22, 2010
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Monday, May 10; 12:15pm
Forest McBrian called in today to report the following:
"Hi guys, I'm just cooking up a gourmet breakfast of granola here at 14 camp on Denali! We pulled into camp last night and indulged ourselves with delicious jumbo Denali burritos. It was quite a welcome treat after a long day of climbing!"
"No major hiccups yet on the expedition. It is still quite cold on the mountain. 14 camp is really quiet, we are only one of 2 guide services up here right now. The rangers are here and the toilets are up so that is a huge plus. We are going to do a back carry today and retrieve our cache at 13,500 feet. Tomorrow we will likely head up the fixed lines to make another cache. We might have some forced rest days after that because there is some funky weather on the way."
"Well, that's all the updates for now. We'll be in touch again soon!"
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Monday, May 10; 12:15pm
Forest McBrian called in today to report the following:
"Hi guys, I'm just cooking up a gourmet breakfast of granola here at 14 camp on Denali! We pulled into camp last night and indulged ourselves with delicious jumbo Denali burritos. It was quite a welcome treat after a long day of climbing!"
"No major hiccups yet on the expedition. It is still quite cold on the mountain. 14 camp is really quiet, we are only one of 2 guide services up here right now. The rangers are here and the toilets are up so that is a huge plus. We are going to do a back carry today and retrieve our cache at 13,500 feet. Tomorrow we will likely head up the fixed lines to make another cache. We might have some forced rest days after that because there is some funky weather on the way."
"Well, that's all the updates for now. We'll be in touch again soon!"
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter (http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute) or on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/alpineinstitute).
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our Climbing Blog.
Friday, May 7, 2010
Denali Team 1 - Dispatch #5
Denali Team 1: May 2-22, 2010
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Friday, May 7; 9:30am
AAI lead Denali Guide Forest McBrian just called in. He indicated that it has been clear and cold and that the conditions are great for moving on the glacier.
Last night the team had Indian night. They ate cooked spicy coconut rice and chicken and everybody was very happy and full.
Today they going to do a carry up around Windy Corner to 13,000 feet. This is a big day, but the team is very strong and everyone is in good spirits.
The team was very interested in finding out who the new British Prime Minister might be. And as you all probably know, it's still up in the air...
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Friday, May 7; 9:30am
AAI lead Denali Guide Forest McBrian just called in. He indicated that it has been clear and cold and that the conditions are great for moving on the glacier.
Last night the team had Indian night. They ate cooked spicy coconut rice and chicken and everybody was very happy and full.
Today they going to do a carry up around Windy Corner to 13,000 feet. This is a big day, but the team is very strong and everyone is in good spirits.
The team was very interested in finding out who the new British Prime Minister might be. And as you all probably know, it's still up in the air...
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter (http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute) or on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/alpineinstitute).
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our Climbing Blog.
Thursday, May 6, 2010
Denali Team 1 - Dispatches
DISPATCH 4:
Denali Team 1: May 2 - 22, 2010
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Dmitri Nichiporov, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Thursday, May 6; 12:30pm
Denali Lead Guide Forest McBrian called in and reported the following:
"Hey, it's Forest again. We are sitting here in Camp 2, getting ready to head down and get our cache. We had quite a journey to get up to Camp 2, climbing through a whiteout and blowing snow. The team did great though and everyone got to sleep in this morning, which was much appreciated! We woke everyone up with hot sausage biscuits for breakfast along with hot coffee and tea. Quite a welcome treat after a very cold night at around -23 C (-9.4 F). Well, we've got to get moving and grab this cache."
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter: http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our blog.
DISPATCH 3:
Denali Team 1: May 2 - 22, 2010
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Dmitri Nichiporov, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Wednesday, May 5; 9:30am
Denali Lead Guide Forest McBrian called in and reported the following:
"Hello, this is Forest reporting from Denali. It's another beautiful day here on the mountain and we are getting ready to make the move from Camp 1 to Camp 2. It's going to be another long day but we've got a really strong team up here full of hard workers so we shouldn't have any problems. The cache went off without a hitch yesterday and as we came back into camp our final team member Krushnaa Patil was waiting for us. Her flight was delayed due to the Icelandic volcano eruption but now she is back with the team and we are excited to have her."
"It is fairly quiet on the mountain this early in the season so it is pretty nice not to have to battle any crowds. We had a wonderful middle eastern feast last night. Luckily enough for the team I was able to resist performing a belly dance routine! Well, we've got to pack up now. Talk to you all again soon!
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter: http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our blog.
DISPATCH 2:
Denali Team 1: May 2 - 22, 2010
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Dmitri Nichiporov, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Tuesday, May 4; 9:00am
Denali Guide Mike Pond called in and reported the following:
"Forest and I are at Camp 1 now. Things are going really well, we're making french toast for breakfast and getting ready to make a cache below Camp 2 at 11,000 feet. Yesterday was good. It was pretty chilly in the morning, one of those lingering cold spells, so it took a little while to get warmed up and moving. Once we finally got moving and made it downHeartbreak Hill it quickly warmed up and felt like we were climbing in California! Of course these warm temperatures didn't last and before too long a low cloud system moved in and brought high winds for about three hours. It cooled down quick and the team performed beatifully setting up camp quickly, not the easiest of tasks in those high, cold winds. We settled into camp quickly and enjoyed a delicious dinner of fat, juicy burgers! A well earned meal by all! Everyone is very pysched to be up here and climbing strong, we'll talk to you all again soon!"
For the most current updates on Denali expeditions, other AAI programs, and current climbing news follow us on Twitter: http://twitter.com/AlpineInstitute
To read about a wide variety of climbing topics, trip reports, and outdoor news, check out our blog.
DISPATCH 1:
Denali Team 1: May 2 - 22, 2010
Guides: Forest McBrian and Mike Pond
Climbers: Rob Gribbin, Dmitri Nichiporov, Deke Williams, Jens Rabbels, Krushnaa Patil, Chris Shumate
Sunday, May 2; 10:34pm
Hello this is Forest and Mike. We are headed to bed here at the Kahiltna air strip. It is a beautiful day with a lovely arrival on the Kahiltna Glacier, and a delicious dinner of thai peanut sauce on rice noodles with salad. Just settling into the groove of things. Everyone is well and we are planning to move up to camp one tomorrow. We'll drop you a line tomorrow to update you on our progress. Take care, bye bye!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
