Denali Team 4 – Dispatch #1

Denali Team 4: May 30 - June 19, 2010

Guides: Dylan Taylor, Jeremy Ellison, Tom Kirby

Climbers: Paul Hameister (Black Rock, Australia), Martin Perry (Melbourne, Australia), Tim Myall (Witney, England), Andy Sweet (San Marcos, California), Brian Plaugher (Guerneville, California), Jay Jackson (Reading, Pennsylvania), Dimitri Nichiporov (Bloomington, Indiana), Respicius Baitwa (Moshi, Tanzania), and Siggi Soleyjarson (Gardabae, Iceland).

Lead guide Dylan Taylor called and left the following dispatch at 11:12am Pacific time on Monday, May 31:


“This is Dylan calling from base camp. It’s Monday morning. Happy Memorial Day!


We got in here last night after some iffy weather and a little waiting prior to our flight time, but it improved and we able to get both flights in by 6 pm last night. Camp is very comfortable, and we have an especially nice kitchen dug out and set up. We’re having French toast for breakfast. On this expedition, we want to be serious about living well from the very beginning.


We’ll be making this a good skills. Soon we’ll be working on a review of prussiking, and a little later we’ll head Head up the glacier towards radio control tower buttress do some crevasse rescue exercises, learn how to pull sleds around efficiently, and do a few other tasks.

I have two messages to pass on:

From Jay, the message is: “Brother Ron, brother Martin”

From Brian the message is: “Love to Libby and everybody (exclamation point)

I’ll pass on more messages as we get them.


We’ll be back to camp early tonight for an early dinner and early bed time. We’ll get up at about 1am and after eating will head out to Camp 1 at 8000 feet. During this first part of the expedition when we’ll be on the lower Kahiltna Glacier, we’ll travel at night in order to get the firmest possible conditions.


We’re look forward to a great day. That’s the news for now! Back to you soon.”
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