Friday, May 18, 2012

Ecuador Antisana/Illiniza: May 11 - 19 - Dispatch #3

Guide: Henry Moya; Climbers: Nick Jansen and Luke Shedivy.

When the team got to Saquisili, they sent this dispatch summary of their activies over the last few days.
This is Henry Moya reporting from Ecuador

Monday, May 14th - Corazon

Corazon (4800 masl, 15748 feet) is another eroded and extinct volcano located about 40 km south west of Quito. It was a perfect and good second acclimatization hike after Pasochoa.

We decided to climb Corazon instead of Guagua Pichincha due the positive advantages of doing this mountain instead of Pichincha. It is a slightly higher peak, also this mountain is closer to Iliniza. The hike took us 4 hours up and 2 down, we found one steep section where I needed to set up a belay on a rock. After the hike we descended to the village of Chaupi where we stayed the night at Llovizna lodge.

Tuesday 15th North Iliniza

We left the Ilinizas hut at 2 pm, and after 1 ½ hours of climbing we decided to put on the crampons due the hard snow in the traverse sector (5000 m, 16400 ft) and I had to set up a belay on rock and hard snow. We made the summit at 5 pm and return at the Ilinizas Refuge by 7 pm.

Wednesday 16th South Iliniza

We left the Ilinizas hut at 4:30, the morning was cloudy and windy. At 6 am we started climbing the South Iliniza ramp and averages 40 degrees in angle, and 2 hours later we reached the summit. Return at the Ilinizas hut by 11 am.

Unfortunately the weather did not cooperate in these two climbs, but Nick and Luke are very pleased with the success achieved.

17th May Saquisili Market

Today Nick and Luke have bought some gifts for their families in Saquisili Market.


Henry Moya

Mountain Guide

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